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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 02 Feb 2014 (Sunday) 08:16
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EF 100-400 "Once you learn how to use it"....

 
itw
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Feb 03, 2014 08:01 |  #16

heh, heh, heh.... That Santa guy ain't so tough.... everyone's got a price ! :lol:

Thanks to everyone who has responded thus far, I really appreciate it and hope this thread will continue for a bit, even if it goes in the direction of general zoom use and birding. I have a lot to learn, good points all ! I checked out the link C Scott supplied.... WOW ! This should keep me out of trouble for a while.

When you say "keep the shutter speed up there " ..... can you give me some examples ? Are we talking 500 - 800 to start for stationary subjects ? In what conditions ? How about F-stops & ISO settings ?

I have noticed it's abilities deteriorating as the daylight fades, especially in the woods. Other than that, in general anything I see wrong with my results I blame on myself.

Is shooting in AV gonna do it ? Never thought about going into "sports mode".....

Great pics, thanks for the contributions.

sunny_j wrote in post #16659525 (external link)
like others have said, the key to getting sharp photos is, keep the shutter speed up there and have a steady hand.


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Rishka78
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Feb 03, 2014 08:12 as a reply to  @ itw's post |  #17

Sorry for asking in your topic....

I am thinking about this lens as well for going to NP (Banff, Jasper, Alaska..) I am not a pro, just in love with photography. I have got 5 D mark ii. You know how everyone is saying about slow focusing of 5d mark ii. I am wondering if it will be a good combo.
Mark ii + 100-400 ? I am scared to get it and be frustrated with my skills.:oops:




  
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monkey44
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Feb 03, 2014 09:22 |  #18

I've been using 100-400 on a 30D for years. Just needs good light, works great ... with the 5DM2, probably work even better than the 30D ...

Plus, lens holds it's value - you can find it used at B&H or Adorama, probably - or here on the "sell page"... and sell it again if you don't find it suitable. Have not shot it with the 5DM2, so can't advise there. It's a nice lens ...




  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Feb 03, 2014 10:58 |  #19

I have used this lens extensively, with all three body types; a full frame, a 1.3 crop, and a 1.6 crop such as you are using it with.

I have found the 100-400 to typically give the best results when you are close to your subject, and can fill the frame as you want to and not have to crop to get the composition you want. Why? Well, I think it's because the lens is slow at f5.6. This means that you often won't be blurring out the background elements very much. Hence. if you are close to your subject you are helping to isolate the background much more than if you were kind of distant.

Also, because the bokeh qualities of this lens are not quite as smooth as those of the bigger supertelephotos, it helps to have the background elements be far behind the subject, rather than right behind it. Typically, the 100-400 works best when the background elements are at least 4 times further than the subject.

Lastly, when using this lens with a 1.6 crop body such as your 70D, it is best to treat it like it's a big supertelephoto and use a very good quality, very sturdy tripod whenever possible. When you want every single hair on a deer to be clearly and distinctly resolved, or when you want every single feather segment on a bird to be clearly and distinctly resolved, the single most effective thing you can do to achieve these results is to shoot when you are firmly clamped down on a very rigid tripod. Many handheld shots taken at 400mm might look great here on the internet, but view them full screen on a huge computer monitor and you will see a lot of deficiencies when it comes to the fine detail in the feathers or fur.


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Lbsimon
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Feb 03, 2014 11:59 |  #20

C Scott IV wrote in post #16657511 (external link)
I wouldn't recommend using the TC until you are proficient with the 100-400 itself. you will be better equipped to deal with manual focus and the reduced light and depth of field inherent with the TC.

I think that was the original question, to which I would also like to get an answer. What does it really mean "when you are proficient with the 100-400"? Beside push-pull, how is it different from other long telephoto, if at all?


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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Feb 03, 2014 12:31 |  #21

Lbsimon wrote in post #16660368 (external link)
I think that was the original question, to which I would also like to get an answer. What does it really mean "when you are proficient with the 100-400"? Beside push-pull, how is it different from other long telephoto, if at all?

To put it another way... If a person has not developed long lens techniques adding a TC only adds frustration.


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gfspencer
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Feb 03, 2014 12:34 |  #22

Hendrik C. wrote in post #16657997 (external link)
I simply LOVE this lens...

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: http://www.retrofokus.​de/  (external link)

Check out my site www.retrofokus.de (external link) for more... almost all animal shots were taken with this lens!

Wow! That is fantastic.


Canon 50D - Canon 7DII - Canon 6D - 16-35mm f/2.8L - 24-105mm f/4[COLOR="red"]L IS - 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS - 50mm f/1.2L - 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS - 100-400mm II f/4.5-5.6L IS - Extender EF 2x

  
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gfspencer
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Feb 03, 2014 12:36 |  #23

Rishka78 wrote in post #16659861 (external link)
Sorry for asking in your topic....

I am thinking about this lens as well for going to NP (Banff, Jasper, Alaska..) I am not a pro, just in love with photography. I have got 5 D mark ii. You know how everyone is saying about slow focusing of 5d mark ii. I am wondering if it will be a good combo.
Mark ii + 100-400 ? I am scared to get it and be frustrated with my skills.:oops:

I started using that lens on a 10D. Many "Ds" later I am still using it. You won't have any problem using it with a 5DII.


Canon 50D - Canon 7DII - Canon 6D - 16-35mm f/2.8L - 24-105mm f/4[COLOR="red"]L IS - 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS - 50mm f/1.2L - 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS - 100-400mm II f/4.5-5.6L IS - Extender EF 2x

  
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gfspencer
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Feb 03, 2014 12:40 |  #24

C Scott IV wrote in post #16657511 (external link)
I wouldn't recommend using the TC until you are proficient with the 100-400 itself. When you are proficient with the 100-400 you will be better equipped to deal with manual focus and the reduced light and depth of field inherent with the TC.

Before anyone told me I couldn't do it, I used this lens with a Canon 2x. :oops: But you are absolutely right you need to be proficient with this lens before you add an extender. The push/pull focus can be frustrating at times.


Canon 50D - Canon 7DII - Canon 6D - 16-35mm f/2.8L - 24-105mm f/4[COLOR="red"]L IS - 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS - 50mm f/1.2L - 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 DO IS - 100-400mm II f/4.5-5.6L IS - Extender EF 2x

  
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Tom ­ Reichner
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Feb 03, 2014 12:43 |  #25

gfspencer wrote in post #16660487 (external link)
The push/pull focus can be frustrating at times.

There is not a push/pull focus on the Canon 100-400mm. The focus ring is of the normal "turning" variety. Only the zoom mechanism is push/pull.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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Feb 03, 2014 14:58 |  #26

This is my most used lens & I use it primarily to shoot radio control flying events. It took a long time to adapt to the push / pull zoom but now that I have I realize I hold the lens at the base of the hood making for a better (more stable) stance when shooting vs having your hand closer to the camera body as you do with a twist to zoom lens. Remember to use the limiter switch to speed the AF up when shooting things which will always be far out & mode 2 of the IS for panning. Also remember to think about the limiter switch when trying to shoot something close BUT the camera doesn't want to lock it's focus. We tend to forget we've chosen to limit the range to distant objects sometimes.


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Scrumhalf
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Feb 03, 2014 15:13 |  #27

For BIF, adjust the tension on the locking ring until you can slide the zoom mechanism in and out smoothly. Stay at 100mm or so while you are acquiring the bird in the VF, then slide out to 400mm or whatever you need to get to and take the shot while keeping the focus point on the bird. IMO, the push-pull is the best feature of this lens.


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2n10
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Feb 03, 2014 16:27 |  #28

I use 1/1000 for static objects as my standard shutter speed and 1/2000 for BIF.


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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Feb 03, 2014 17:20 |  #29

Tom Reichner wrote in post #16660495 (external link)
There is not a push/pull focus on the Canon 100-400mm. The focus ring is of the normal "turning" variety. Only the zoom mechanism is push/pull.

I interpreted it as... with the TC you would be push/pulling and manual focusing at the same time due to no AF. That is a challenge, especially if you are not used to the lens.


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Feb 03, 2014 19:29 |  #30

In sunlight, AF with a non-reporting 1.4x TC is very possible, I used it quite a bit.


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EF 100-400 "Once you learn how to use it"....
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