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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 03 Jan 2014 (Friday) 12:51
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Spending on gear.....need advises

 
Tareq
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Jan 03, 2014 12:51 |  #1

Hi again,

Happy New Year!

Well, it sounds i am returning back to my bad old habit, wasting or spending money on gear again, but this time i am thinking to see opinions/suggestions/a​dvises that may help me on my decision, any help is welcome and i am not in rush.

First, the budget i am thinking to put is in the range of $2500-4000, i may add if i work harder, but sounds i don't want to work harder to ave more, so i keep this range.

so for above range budget, i was looking at those options to buy and ask you to guide/help me what do you think:

1. I bought TS-E 24mm II and i love it and still new, but even from first time i used it i was looking for much wider lens, and only 17mm TS is wider TS lens there, i love interior and outdoor architectures.

2. Buying Hasselblad HC 100mm f2.2 lens for my H4D, long time didn't invest on Hasselblad products, this is very expensive lens so i buy it and i save more then i will not buy something else for a while. The lens will be for portraits and some outdoor shots, but not a must lens

3. Hasselblad HTS 1.5 adapter, to use it more for architecture and some still life or products shots, but this adapter also very expensive and i can afford it alone without another items i am looking for.

4. Sigma 180mm f/2.8 OS, for macro or even products, this lens sounds a great for macro due to its working distance and OS and also f2.8, so myabe this lens could be a better choice over Canon 100mm 2.8L IS regardless of the IQ, sometimes i don't care much for highest IQ, this Sigma lens maybe not much far with IQ behind Canon ones if not in same class of quality.

5. I still thinking about a higher mp camera, with that range budget i have 3 cameras in my mind:
a. Canon 5D3
b. Nikon D800/D800E
c. Sony A7R
I am more into Sony or Nikon because they are above 30mp, while 5D3 is 22mp, i have 1Ds3 so for shooting landscapes i feel that 1Ds3 will not be any less than 5D3, i always use low ISO for landscapes in all times, if i will shoot landscapes at high ISO then i don't are about higher mp, so then i can go with 1DX.

6. Replacing my old gear if i sell them, such as: 5D classic, 1D bodies [1.3x only], 16-35mk1, 24-70mk1, 100 macro non L/IS, 580EX mk1, 1.4x mkII

7. Some lenses to increase my collection, such as Samyang/Rokinon 14mm, TSE 45 or 90mm, 24mm or 35mm primes,...etc, i can buy 2 lenses if cheap [2x $1000 each], or 1 lens [Up to $1500] with some other items above if also cheap within budget range


So with above, i can't decide which gear i will use more, i am looking for to focus on interior and architecture and products more, i keep shooting sports and i am done in that even i still dream about longer tele such as 400 2.8IS II.

I can use Hasselblad for landscape, but i don't have tilt shift option, and because i just bought TS lens for Canon so i was thinking to have a camera body with high mp to use this lens with it, unless i can buy HTS adapter for Hasselblad, but it will add 1.5x factor with any lens i use with it.

I will delay Astronomy gear for later, also long primes such as 400/500/600 for some sports or birding or wildlife, also 200-400 is in my wishlist and can't afford it yet, so i will just focus on landscapes/products/ma​cro/still life things for now beside sports, maybe in the middle of this year or nearly end of this year i may have another budget for bigger spending, i will worry later about that, but for now, what do you think it is better to go with? The best way is that you put yourself in my place and having same my gear i currently have so with that budget what you will go with from the options i posted above.

Note: I can't travel because of my bad job and situations with family, so that i decided to waste money on gear to keep my mind going in life and photography.


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rick_reno
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Jan 03, 2014 14:13 |  #2

I'm not sure it's wasting money if you're buying things you enjoy and will use. You've got the H4D, with either the 50mp or 60mp version (not sure which one you have) you should be getting all the pixels you want with it. Going the Nikon/Sony direction would only be good if you're willing to sell all your Canon gear. I use a D800 and personally find it better for my needs than anything Canon offers, but it's a big change if you go in that direction.




  
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jdizzle
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Jan 03, 2014 14:21 |  #3

I would go with number three. Your Hassy glass will act like a tilt shift lens. I don't see any reason to upgrade anything since you have every category covered.




  
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Tareq
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Jan 03, 2014 14:38 |  #4

rick_reno wrote in post #16574904 (external link)
I'm not sure it's wasting money if you're buying things you enjoy and will use. You've got the H4D, with either the 50mp or 60mp version (not sure which one you have) you should be getting all the pixels you want with it. Going the Nikon/Sony direction would only be good if you're willing to sell all your Canon gear. I use a D800 and personally find it better for my needs than anything Canon offers, but it's a big change if you go in that direction.

I have 60mp version. I didn't explain it more, i really not into getting Nikon body, and if i bought D800 then i will buy only one lens i think 14-24 and maybe one of those 3rd party lenses and not planning to buy entire system or give up Canon, but Sony A7R is doing fine to host Canon lens by adapter mount, so this may be a better choice for high mp than Nikon, but i have a budget to buy Nikon D800 with 1-2 lenses only.

jdizzle wrote in post #16574926 (external link)
I would go with number three. Your Hassy glass will act like a tilt shift lens. I don't see any reason to upgrade anything since you have every category covered.

Well, i really want that option, but i am still have a future long vision of getting a tech cam, i can use my H4D-60 somehow if i can't get a Phase One of Leaf DB for example, so then i know that i may not use Hasselblad much for landscape or i will leave HTS later for collecting dust, sure i will use it now if i buy it, but later i will not use it, i will not give up Hasselblad body as i can still use it even if i buy another DB, but HTS will be less use if i go with tech cam that have tilt/shift option.

about upgrading, i may do only if i sell my current old versions, i found a store where i can buy new version at low nice reasonable prices, so it may help me to afford newer versions.


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Jan 03, 2014 14:52 |  #5

Tareq wrote in post #16574975 (external link)
I have 60mp version. I didn't explain it more, i really not into getting Nikon body, and if i bought D800 then i will buy only one lens i think 14-24 and maybe one of those 3rd party lenses and not planning to buy entire system or give up Canon, but Sony A7R is doing fine to host Canon lens by adapter mount, so this may be a better choice for high mp than Nikon, but i have a budget to buy Nikon D800 with 1-2 lenses only.

Well, i really want that option, but i am still have a future long vision of getting a tech cam, i can use my H4D-60 somehow if i can't get a Phase One of Leaf DB for example, so then i know that i may not use Hasselblad much for landscape or i will leave HTS later for collecting dust, sure i will use it now if i buy it, but later i will not use it, i will not give up Hasselblad body as i can still use it even if i buy another DB, but HTS will be less use if i go with tech cam that have tilt/shift option.

about upgrading, i may do only if i sell my current old versions, i found a store where i can buy new version at low nice reasonable prices, so it may help me to afford newer versions.

Sell the Hassy and go Phase One with tech body. ;) Phase One is in the works of upgrading their AF body and supposedly making new glass. ;)




  
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Tareq
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Jan 03, 2014 15:06 |  #6

jdizzle wrote in post #16575026 (external link)
Sell the Hassy and go Phase One with tech body. ;) Phase One is in the works of upgrading their AF body and supposedly making new glass. ;)

This is an option, but i can't go this way yet because it may cost me more, i can use Hasselblad for portraits and products, and if i can afford P1 so it will be for landscapes and architecture, also Phase One Dealer is not helpful in my country, so i can't risk losing Hasselblad to run after Phase One without good service dealer.

Also i can buy one cheap tech cam, and i saw some can use Hasselblad DB on it, i saw some used H3DII or H4D back on some tech cams, so i may start buy getting a tech cam and hold on my H4D back for a while until i can buy a dedicated individual DB for it.


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Feb 04, 2014 00:50 |  #7

Ok, i re-think of what i would like to buy later, so i narrowed to these ones now and not sure which to go with first:

1. Buying 36mp DSLR, Sony A7R is the only option to use my Canon lenses with
2. Canon TS17mm
3. Canon TS-E 90mm + Sam/Rok 14mm


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Tareq
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Feb 21, 2014 05:02 |  #8

I have the money now to get either Sony α7R or TS17, and honestly i want to get that Sony camera first than the lens, what you will do if you have to choose only one of both now?

If i will get the Sony, can someone link me where or which best mount adapter i can buy to attach Canon lenses on that Sony camera?


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bpark42
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Feb 21, 2014 10:31 |  #9

Tareq wrote in post #16705953 (external link)
I have the money now to get either Sony α7R or TS17, and honestly i want to get that Sony camera first than the lens, what you will do if you have to choose only one of both now?

If you have an immediate need for the 17, get the lens. It won't matter what camera you have if you don't have the right lens for whatever you need to shoot.

Tareq wrote in post #16705953 (external link)
If i will get the Sony, can someone link me where or which best mount adapter i can buy to attach Canon lenses on that Sony camera?

Your options are limited for Canon to NEX/a7(r) adapters if you want aperture control/AF/IS. The Metabones is pretty much the only mainstream option I am aware of. I believe there are some unproven no-name brands that offer electronic control as well, easily found with an ebay search for "canon sony electronic adapter".

Be aware that the metabones adapter is known to cause issues with the 17 TSE primarily in the form of low contrast or flare, usually seen when shifting the lens. The workaround has been to buy good adhesive flocking paper and put that over all of the internal adapter surfaces. I have no idea if the cheapo adapters would have the same issue.




  
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Tareq
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Feb 21, 2014 11:11 |  #10

bpark42 wrote in post #16706486 (external link)
If you have an immediate need for the 17, get the lens. It won't matter what camera you have if you don't have the right lens for whatever you need to shoot.



Your options are limited for Canon to NEX/a7(r) adapters if you want aperture control/AF/IS. The Metabones is pretty much the only mainstream option I am aware of. I believe there are some unproven no-name brands that offer electronic control as well, easily found with an ebay search for "canon sony electronic adapter".

Be aware that the metabones adapter is known to cause issues with the 17 TSE primarily in the form of low contrast or flare, usually seen when shifting the lens. The workaround has been to buy good adhesive flocking paper and put that over all of the internal adapter surfaces. I have no idea if the cheapo adapters would have the same issue.

Well, i have 24mm but i found myself to be a very WA shots shooter, so most of my shots need more wider FL than 24mm even if i shift, so 17mm will be a good one, sometimes i feel even 17mm is not that much wide if i want ultra wide, but i know using FF i always need a lens wider than 20mm, and 17mm is the only tilt shift kens wider than 20mm.


I have to check out about that adapter mount, but i may try not go beyond its limit, i will use 24mm TS or some lenses such as 16-35 and 24-105L, later one day if i will get 17mm i will give it a try and see if it will give me good results with or without movements.

So if you were in my place, which one will you get first, Sony A7R or Canon TS-E 17mm?

I chose Sony camera because it is a better choice i can find to place my Canon lenses on, i was thinking about Nikon D800/D800E, but i will be in the same situation as Sony A7R, so i feel that Sony will serve me more than Nikon D800E, what do you think?


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bpark42
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Feb 21, 2014 16:18 |  #11

Tareq wrote in post #16706580 (external link)
I have to check out about that adapter mount, but i may try not go beyond its limit, i will use 24mm TS or some lenses such as 16-35 and 24-105L, later one day if i will get 17mm i will give it a try and see if it will give me good results with or without movements.

The 24 may show some of the same issues with low contrast or flare on the metabones adapter, particularly when shifted. You should probably be prepared to apply the flock paper if you get the adapter and use either tilt-shift lens.

Tareq wrote in post #16706580 (external link)
So if you were in my place, which one will you get first, Sony A7R or Canon TS-E 17mm?

I can't decide that for you. It really depends on whether you need the 17 or not. If you could live without it for a while and could get by with your other lenses, then I say go for the a7r first. You could always try stitching shifted shots from the 24. If it were me I would get the camera first, but I rarely need anything wider than 21mm.


Tareq wrote in post #16706580 (external link)
I chose Sony camera because it is a better choice i can find to place my Canon lenses on, i was thinking about Nikon D800/D800E, but i will be in the same situation as Sony A7R, so i feel that Sony will serve me more than Nikon D800E, what do you think?

There is no question that the a7r is a far more versatile platform when it comes to using adapted lenses. That said, I don't see much point in using any Canon lenses other than the two TSE's on the Sony unless you are keeping Canon cameras as well. Canon lenses like the 24-105L you mentioned are good, but are nothing special. It barely keeps up with 20+ megapixel Canon sensors, so I would be looking for something better for 36 megapixels.

I personally would be happy in the field (I shoot landscapes) with: either of the TSE lenses if tilt or shift is required, the Sony/Zeiss FE 35 (which is very good and is absolutely tiny), the Sony/Zeiss FE 55 (which is outstanding and still quite small and light), and the contax G 90/2.8 (there are plenty of other good+cheap/small options at this focal length, but this is the one I chose for use on the a7r). The three primes (35,55,90) are small and light and will give results that are far superior to those produced by something like the 24-105L.




  
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Tareq
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Feb 21, 2014 16:33 |  #12

bpark42 wrote in post #16707328 (external link)
The 24 may show some of the same issues with low contrast or flare on the metabones adapter, particularly when shifted. You should probably be prepared to apply the flock paper if you get the adapter and use either tilt-shift lens.

I see, i have to read about that much more then and see if i can live with that.
What is flock paper?

bpark42 wrote in post #16707328 (external link)
I can't decide that for you. It really depends on whether you need the 17 or not. If you could live without it for a while and could get by with your other lenses, then I say go for the a7r first. You could always try stitching shifted shots from the 24. If it were me I would get the camera first, but I rarely need anything wider than 21mm.

Well, i also decided to go with camera first, in all cases i don't need so rush about another TS lens yet while i just got TS24mm and didn't use it many times yet since i bought it, but i really can say that i always wish to have wider than 24mm when i use it on some shots, even for shifting there are shots better without shift or i have to go wider FL than 24 for some reasons, in all cases, i am sure if i got 17mm i will use it same as or more than 24mm, bought 17mm because it was available that time locally and found it at great price, but you have a point in your post.

bpark42 wrote in post #16707328 (external link)
There is no question that the a7r is a far more versatile platform when it comes to using adapted lenses. That said, I don't see much point in using any Canon lenses other than the two TSE's on the Sony unless you are keeping Canon cameras as well. Canon lenses like the 24-105L you mentioned are good, but are nothing special. It barely keeps up with 20+ megapixel Canon sensors, so I would be looking for something better for 36 megapixels.

Ofcourse i am keeping Canon cameras, and i just wanted to see how much i will like using my Canon lenses on Sony because it has 36mp over my top Canon cameras that are mostly 18-21mp. What better for 36mp in your opinion?

bpark42 wrote in post #16707328 (external link)
I personally would be happy in the field (I shoot landscapes) with: either of the TSE lenses if tilt or shift is required, the Sony/Zeiss FE 35 (which is very good and is absolutely tiny), the Sony/Zeiss FE 55 (which is outstanding and still quite small and light), and the contax G 90/2.8 (there are plenty of other good+cheap+small options at this focal length, but this is the one I chose for use on the a7r). The three primes (35,55,90) are small and light and will give results that are far superior to something like the 24-105L.

And why your chose those lenses? If quality then there are many quality lenses not only those, so are there another reasons your chose there rather than IQ? Because if i said that 24mm is sometimes not wide enough for me even if i can use TS, then how come 35mm and 55mm from Zeiss or whatever brand will serve me better? I also shoot landscapes, but i am more towards architectures and interior design these days and cityscape.

What do you think about Hasselblad CF lenses [lenses i use on Hasselblad 500 series bodies]???


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Feb 21, 2014 18:36 |  #13

Tareq wrote in post #16707374 (external link)
I see, i have to read about that much more then and see if i can live with that.
What is flock paper?

http://www.edmundoptic​s.com …-black-out-material/54585 (external link)

A quick excerpt from wikipedia: "In the photographic (external link) industry, flocking is one method used to reduce the reflectivity of surfaces, including the insides of some bellows (external link) and lens hoods (external link). It is also used to produce light-tight passages for film (external link) such as in 135 film (external link) cartridges."

Take the rear lens cap off your 24 TSE lens and I believe the inside of the barrel from the rear element to the rear of the lens should be covered with the same flock paper like what I linked to above.




  
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bpark42
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Feb 21, 2014 18:56 |  #14

Tareq wrote in post #16707374 (external link)
Ofcourse i am keeping Canon cameras, and i just wanted to see how much i will like using my Canon lenses on Sony because it has 36mp over my top Canon cameras that are mostly 18-21mp. What better for 36mp in your opinion?

I missed in your original post that you shoot sports. If you didn't I would probably advocate looking into ditching Canon cameras (and more importantly, their dated sensor technology) altogether. As for what lenses are better, I would probably replace the 16-35 with a 14-24 if you have to have a zoom. Otherwise, just sell it and put the money toward a 17 TSE. The 24-105L is a little bit harder because most standard zooms are a compromise one way or another. Something like the Contax 35-70 might be an option, though of course you get less focal length coverage. The new Sony/Zeiss FE 24-70/4 would be an option as well. I'm not a zoom person, so my bias is toward replacing zooms with high quality primes as in the earlier examples I gave.

Tareq wrote in post #16707374 (external link)
And why your chose those lenses? If quality then there are many quality lenses not only those, so are there another reasons your chose there rather than IQ?

Size and weight were a factor as well. When hiking or backpacking I prefer to keep the camera gear as small as possible while maintaining the highest quality possible. The FE 35 weighs next to nothing and is very good across the frame when stopped down. I also happened to get a pretty good deal on it.

The FE 55 is small and light, and is nearly in a class of its own optically speaking. ~50mm is my most used focal length for landscape work, so that particular lens was an easy choice for me when I got the a7r.

The G90 was chosen because of its excellent reputation combined with the low prices on the used market. I picked one up for about $230 US on ebay.

Tareq wrote in post #16707374 (external link)
Because if i said that 24mm is sometimes not wide enough for me even if i can use TS, then how come 35mm and 55mm from Zeiss or whatever brand will serve me better? I also shoot landscapes, but i am more towards architectures and interior design these days and cityscape.

I wasn't suggesting the 35/55/etc would serve you better than the ultrawide tilt-shift. I was suggesting a possible setup in addition to the 17 or 24 TSE that would essentially replace the 24-105L.

Tareq wrote in post #16707374 (external link)
What do you think about Hasselblad CF lenses [lenses i use on Hasselblad 500 series bodies]???

I have no experience with Hasselblad lenses of any sort, so I can't provide any input.




  
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Feb 22, 2014 02:45 |  #15

bpark42 wrote in post #16707675 (external link)
I missed in your original post that you shoot sports. If you didn't I would probably advocate looking into ditching Canon cameras (and more importantly, their dated sensor technology) altogether. As for what lenses are better, I would probably replace the 16-35 with a 14-24 if you have to have a zoom. Otherwise, just sell it and put the money toward a 17 TSE. The 24-105L is a little bit harder because most standard zooms are a compromise one way or another. Something like the Contax 35-70 might be an option, though of course you get less focal length coverage. The new Sony/Zeiss FE 24-70/4 would be an option as well. I'm not a zoom person, so my bias is toward replacing zooms with high quality primes as in the earlier examples I gave.

Size and weight were a factor as well. When hiking or backpacking I prefer to keep the camera gear as small as possible while maintaining the highest quality possible. The FE 35 weighs next to nothing and is very good across the frame when stopped down. I also happened to get a pretty good deal on it.

The FE 55 is small and light, and is nearly in a class of its own optically speaking. ~50mm is my most used focal length for landscape work, so that particular lens was an easy choice for me when I got the a7r.

The G90 was chosen because of its excellent reputation combined with the low prices on the used market. I picked one up for about $230 US on ebay.

I wasn't suggesting the 35/55/etc would serve you better than the ultrawide tilt-shift. I was suggesting a possible setup in addition to the 17 or 24 TSE that would essentially replace the 24-105L.

I have no experience with Hasselblad lenses of any sort, so I can't provide any input.

OK.

Well, let me put it tis way to make it very clear:

1. When i travel i shoot landscapes as main or #1 type, then cityscape or anything else. In my country, the most i shoot is football, so sports coming first, but i don't have much landscape around that i get busy with, also i do nightshots and architecture photography.

2. I buy Sony A7R without sacrificing my Canon gear, and i was thinking i will use only TS lenses with this camera with a right adapter mount, maybe one day or another i may use another lenses with this camera beside those TS lenses, but not as a must.

3. No way i can get rid of my Canon 24-105L until Canon or any another brand can produce a zoom better than this in the range 20-150 [f4 or faster] then i will let my 24-105 go, i still have 24-70 f2.8L, so i am not into very fast prime yet, i do have Canon 50 f1.4, i can get 50 1.2L, or Sigma 35mm 1.4 which is very good lens, or i can go with your Zeiss choices if necessary sooner or later.

At the end, all what i asked about is if the camera will be a better choice to go with first to have higher mp or that TS 17 as i shoot a lot of buildings and outdoor cityscape, and was planning to go to Dubai to shoot some of those tall towers such a Burj Khalifa, i know 24mm can do the job but also wanted if i can have less frames without much shifts, sometimes i am very close to something that even with maximum shifts in both directions i can't include the whole frame, that happened when i did shoot a decent building horizontally and even with shifts i couldn't include the whole building from where i stand [If i stepped back then i will kill the reflection of the building], so that i was thinking that 17mm will give me wider shot from where i can stand perfectly to include the entire building with its reflection with one shot or proper shift on that lens.

Well, i feel when i ask about gear choice decision it comes to personal need, but i just welcome all opinions/suggestions, sometimes it helps me a lot or guide me to a better choice/purchase, it doesn't mean if i don't go with some advises here that i don't want advises, but because i sometimes find good deals or my situations change so i go with something else whether it was recommended or not.


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Spending on gear.....need advises
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Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.