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Thread started 19 Feb 2013 (Tuesday) 17:01
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DotTune: AF fine tuning without photographs

 
rndman
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May 04, 2013 17:15 |  #46

kcbrown wrote in post #15897521 (external link)
There's a refinement of this method that is applicable to zoom lenses:

  1. Perform the standard DotTune method for the lens at each end of its focal length range. Write down the range of MFA values for each focal length.
  2. Find the intersection of the two ranges you got previously. This will tell you what MFA values will work for both focal lengths. This range will be between the largest minimum MFA value you found, and the smallest maximum MFA value you found.
  3. Set your MFA value to be the center of that intersecting range.

If the MFA ranges do not intersect, then you need to get your lens calibrated.


Example: Suppose you have a 24-70 f/2.8 lens. The first thing you do is perform the DotTune method for the 24 mm focal length. Suppose this gets you a range of -5 to +2. Then you perform the DotTune method for 70mm. Suppose this gets you a range of -2 to +7.

The intersecting range of those two ranges is -2 to +2. The center of that range is, of course, 0, so the MFA value you should use is 0.


One other thing: the DotTune method has you use live view to get the target in as good focus as possible, but there will be a range of focus that has the target clearly in focus from within live view. What you really want is for the focus to be such that what you're focusing on is in the center of the focus field. This means using a focus target that has something that allows you to see the actual focus field, like something angled at a 45 degree incline relative to the target.

Of course, the above presupposes that your camera takes only a single adjustment value. If, as in the newer Canon bodies, it takes a value for each end, then you use the center of the range for the end in question as the adjustment value for that end.

This I believe applies to those bodies that do not have wide and Tele MFA settings.


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kcbrown
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May 04, 2013 17:28 |  #47

rndman wrote in post #15897758 (external link)
This I believe applies to those bodies that do not have wide and Tele MFA settings.

Yep. Exactly what I meant in the last sentence.


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Jocce
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Mar 05, 2014 06:15 as a reply to  @ kcbrown's post |  #48

Sorry for lifting an old thread...

This method seems to be a good thing for me to try!

I've tried to read through the entire thread both here and on FredMiranda, but there is a LOT to read through...

Just three quick questions:

1. How do I Establish critical focus in Live View? Using Live-View af? Or by manually adjusting the focus (and by so it is my eyes that have to make the decision?)

2. Will a Halogen-Spotlight right on the target do, or do i need daylight?
2a. Will the printed target printed on a Office Laserprinter (Xerox 7120) be enough quality?)

3. Can I make the screen be on at all times, even when pressing for AF-Confirmation? (5DMK3) (So I don't need to hop in to the menu every time...)


Thanks !


/Jocce



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Lbsimon
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Mar 05, 2014 11:59 |  #49

Jocce wrote in post #16735711 (external link)
Sorry for lifting an old thread...

This method seems to be a good thing for me to try!

I've tried to read through the entire thread both here and on FredMiranda, but there is a LOT to read through...

Just three quick questions:

1. How do I Establish critical focus in Live View? Using Live-View af? Or by manually adjusting the focus (and by so it is my eyes that have to make the decision?)

2. Will a Halogen-Spotlight right on the target do, or do i need daylight?
2a. Will the printed target printed on a Office Laserprinter (Xerox 7120) be enough quality?)

3. Can I make the screen be on at all times, even when pressing for AF-Confirmation? (5DMK3) (So I don't need to hop in to the menu every time...)


Thanks !


/Jocce

You can get the critical focus manually, but it is easier to do it in Live View with five or ten x magnification.

Does not matter which light it is, but it should be sufficient to allow for a low ISO. I used two cheap Home Depot reflectors with 60 watt bulb in each.

Any modern printer is good for the target.

Sorry, I am not sure what you are asking in the last question.




  
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Sgt.Ed
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Mar 05, 2014 15:09 as a reply to  @ Lbsimon's post |  #50

If I understand the dot-tune method correctly you are looking to establish focus using contrast detect rather than phase detect. To do that in Live View select "live mode" not "quick mode". Quick mode uses phase detect to establish focus.
Establish focus on a high contrast target using the center focus point. Exit live view.
Set you lens to manual focus being careful not to move the focusing ring.
Enter the menu and select the micro-adjust feature, C.Fn III-7 on the 1D MKIV.
All observations will now be made through the view finder, watching for the green focus confirmation light. The process is pretty straight forward.
Your last question, I believe, pertains to using/setting the micro-adjust feature. I've found that you will be going back into the menu to make your adjustments frequently. It's a minor inconvenience but I don't know of any way around it.
Ed


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Jocce
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Mar 05, 2014 15:19 |  #51

Couldn't wait for the daylight, or rather the weekend, so had to try it inside with a spotlight (halogen) to see just how it worked...

On my 5D MK3, these are the results I got:

24-70 @ 24mm: -4
@ 70mm: 0

70-200@ 70mm: -8
@ 200mm: +4

85 @ 85mm: -2

100 @ 100mm: +3

50 @ 50mm: -2

17-40 @ 17mm: -5
@ 40mm: +2


Did a little bit of testing now and seems to be better, but looking forward to trying it in some real life scenarios...


/Jocce



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panicatnabisco
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Mar 05, 2014 23:52 |  #52

Tried this on my lenses and the results were worse. Nothing beats MA the old fashion way


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GregDunn
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Mar 06, 2014 00:15 |  #53

Jocce wrote in post #16735711 (external link)
2. Will a Halogen-Spotlight right on the target do, or do i need daylight?

/Jocce

Be very cautious! Some camera/lens combinations will focus differently in light with different color temperature. I extensively tested my lenses with my 7D and in every case the AF was affected by the difference between fluorescent and daylight. Most lenses also behaved differently in tungsten vs. daylight. This was borne out in actual use such that my lenses back focused noticeably under fluorescent lighting. I have a set of MA values for each lighting type now that give me good results.

So if you do MA your system, make sure you test in different types of lighting first!


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Mar 06, 2014 00:30 |  #54

I decided to have another look at the DotTune youtube video and noticed this one on the right. This guy is adjusting AFM and taking the test shots in LV? It is kinda slow at the start. Start at the 7 minute mark.

http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=9LDiRmVf2EQ (external link)


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digital ­ paradise
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Mar 06, 2014 00:34 |  #55

Plus his camera is shaking.


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DotTune: AF fine tuning without photographs
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