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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 18 Jul 2010 (Sunday) 23:40
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Best Lens and Aperture for Group Shot

 
jkdjedi
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Mar 13, 2014 12:44 |  #16

gonzogolf wrote in post #16755743 (external link)
The rule of thumb for groups is use the longest lens (or focal length) you are able to get the whole group in the frame. The reason is perspective distortion. With a wide lens (and therefore working closer) you have tendency to get subtle perspective distortion. The subjects in the front row appear larger than the people on in the second row and worse if you have 3 rows. Sometimes a wide angle is required, but the longer the lens the better.

Thanks! This makes a lot if sense.


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rivas8409
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Mar 13, 2014 13:03 |  #17

I'm glad I stumbbled on this thread. It's given my some more food for thought. My daughter's HS cheer coach asked if I'd take team and individual photos for them later on this month. I've got no problem doing them, so of course I said yes. I've been thinking lately about what lens to use and I'm thinking of putting my 24-105L on the 50D on a tripod for the team shots and my 85mm on the 5DII for the individuals. Or maybe I'll just slap the 24-105 on the 5DII and use that for both the team and individual shots. The latter might be the most logical way.


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MalVeauX
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Mar 13, 2014 13:09 |  #18

rivas8409 wrote in post #16755921 (external link)
I'm glad I stumbbled on this thread. It's given my some more food for thought. My daughter's HS cheer coach asked if I'd take team and individual photos for them later on this month. I've got no problem doing them, so of course I said yes. I've been thinking lately about what lens to use and I'm thinking of putting my 24-105L on the 50D on a tripod for the team shots and my 85mm on the 5DII for the individuals. Or maybe I'll just slap the 24-105 on the 5DII and use that for both the team and individual shots. The latter might be the most logical way.

Heya,

I'd keep it simple and use one lens and just setup a spot and hammer out the same thing over and over for consistent keeper results and to move it quickly through them all. It could take a lot of time, if you have to swap lenses, reconfigure, redo the exposure, etc. If you try to get too artsy with that many people to photograph in a single sitting, you might miss a few (referring to trying wide aperture shots). I'd setup the group and setup a spot for individual portraits and roll it all at F4, with speedlites for fill (off camera).

Very best,


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jkdjedi
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Mar 13, 2014 13:31 |  #19

MalVeauX wrote in post #16755939 (external link)
Heya,

I'd keep it simple and use one lens and just setup a spot and hammer out the same thing over and over for consistent keeper results and to move it quickly through them all. It could take a lot of time, if you have to swap lenses, reconfigure, redo the exposure, etc. If you try to get too artsy with that many people to photograph in a single sitting, you might miss a few (referring to trying wide aperture shots). I'd setup the group and setup a spot for individual portraits and roll it all at F4, with speedlites for fill (off camera).

Very best,

This! ^


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gonzogolf
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Mar 13, 2014 13:51 |  #20

rivas8409 wrote in post #16755921 (external link)
I'm glad I stumbbled on this thread. It's given my some more food for thought. My daughter's HS cheer coach asked if I'd take team and individual photos for them later on this month. I've got no problem doing them, so of course I said yes. I've been thinking lately about what lens to use and I'm thinking of putting my 24-105L on the 50D on a tripod for the team shots and my 85mm on the 5DII for the individuals. Or maybe I'll just slap the 24-105 on the 5DII and use that for both the team and individual shots. The latter might be the most logical way.

As long as you arent worrying about background control the 24-105 is a great portrait lens. I use mine for most of my studio work. For individual portraits though I prefer the ability to shoot a bit more wide open to blur the background. But if you have a place around the ballpark to get a plain background then the 24-105 is a great choice.




  
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Nick_Reading.UK
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Mar 13, 2014 14:02 |  #21

rivas8409 wrote in post #16755921 (external link)
I'm glad I stumbbled on this thread. It's given my some more food for thought.

Same here !!!


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ceegee
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Mar 13, 2014 14:15 |  #22

I did a similar shot for my daughter's girl guide troop last year. I used the 24-105 on my 7D: 35 mm, f8, 1/200, image taken at a distance of about 14'. There were 16 girls in three rows. I used OCF for a bit of fill (photo taken early evening). The results were fine: everyone in focus, etc.


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gonzogolf
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Mar 13, 2014 14:19 |  #23

ceegee wrote in post #16756126 (external link)
I did a similar shot for my daughter's girl guide troop last year. I used the 24-105 on my 7D: 35 mm, f8, 1/200, image taken at a distance of about 14'. There were 16 girls in three rows. I used OCF for a bit of fill (photo taken early evening). The results were fine: everyone in focus, etc.

The old saying amongst photojournalists in the film days was the key thing to know was "F8 and be there". F8 gives you a lot of depth of field and PJ in the film days was safe. Digital brought about a trend to shoot with your depth of field at the absolute minimum and many shooters try to get away doing groups too shallow.




  
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Charlie
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Mar 13, 2014 14:29 |  #24

I've done a lot of larger groups, and generally, go as far back as possible!

I was able to get a group of ~70 people with the focal length of 35mm, F4 (Could have done F2.8 and got away with it).

50F4 is really good. Small groups, I'll even use the 135mm.


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schmoelzel
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Mar 13, 2014 14:37 |  #25

I used a 70-200 last year for my daughters soccer team picture. Was @ 70mm and I was fairly far away. Used f5.6 and everyone was in focus. The problem I often see with the slower apertures is the background causing flowers, branches, etc growing out of peoples heads. Make sure you have a good background.




  
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rgs
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Mar 13, 2014 17:03 |  #26

I've done sports teams, reunion classes (200 drunks in one shot) and lots of other groups. With a sports team, shoot at about 50mm if FF or 24 if on a crop, use fill flash (-1 stop over ambient light), find a shaded location if possible, get bushes or trees behind you, and shoot at f8 if you can. Focus on the front row or slightly behind it.

This is not a hard job. Good light. Moderate aperture. Enjoy the group and make everyone have a good time.


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texshooter
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Mar 13, 2014 22:33 as a reply to  @ rgs's post |  #27

Try focus stacking instead of DOF calculators. If your models are spaced apart (rear to front and left to right), you dont need to get them all in focus with one shot. Use whatever aperature You like and take multiple shots, then blend them in PS.




  
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vengence
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Mar 13, 2014 22:48 |  #28

I'm going to guess the OP isn't going to take much of the advice posted for him in this thread in the last 10 hours given the thread was made in 2010....




  
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rgs
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Mar 13, 2014 23:00 |  #29

As photographers, we can get lost in the process by trying to think of an unusual point of view or obsessing over equipment. With group or team photos, what is needed is good light, well exposed files, clear focus, and happy faces. Anything else will be missed by your subjects but expression sells. They want good looking record shot, not fine art.

texshooter wrote in post #16757134 (external link)
Try focus stacking instead of DOF calculators. If your models are spaced apart (rear to front and left to right), you dont need to get them all in focus with one shot. Use whatever aperature You like and take multiple shots, then blend them in PS.

A useful technique to have in reserve when needed but, usually f8 and an adequate distance from the subjects is all that is needed. It's much faster to process normally in LR than blending exposures in PS. When I have to blend exposures in PS, it's usually just to get everyone's eyes opened.


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MalVeauX
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Mar 14, 2014 06:12 |  #30

vengence wrote in post #16757170 (external link)
I'm going to guess the OP isn't going to take much of the advice posted for him in this thread in the last 10 hours given the thread was made in 2010....

NICE!

:o

Very best,


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