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Thread started 27 Mar 2014 (Thursday) 08:50
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Why my photos won't turn out how I want? New 6D

 
HazemG
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Mar 28, 2014 09:33 |  #31

neacail wrote in post #16792465 (external link)
Why are you using such a low ISO? You can boost it much, much higher on the 6D without sacrificing image quality. Boost your ISO and get your shutter speed up. Even though you got great shots at 1/20-1/40 (which really impresses me), that's a huge gamble. Honestly, I don't know how you and your models pulled it off. I have no explanation.

I won't hesitate for a moment to use ISO 6400 on my 6D. I do have to apply some NR in post, but not enough to lose image detail.

I am used to shooting at 100 since I use off camera lighting. I'm really perplexed as to how I got great shots with a slower shutter then yesterday didn't fare as well. The only thing I can think of is the lighting may have been a little more dim yesterday as it was closer to sunset.. Is this possible?

The only thing is I am also limited to 1/180 flash sync speed by the 6D. Is this going to be a problem with banding?

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16792466 (external link)
Always sacrifice ISO for shutter speed. You should first make sure your shutter speed is enough to stop motion, noise is easier to clean up (especially on newer cameras) than motion blur.

I always try to go with 1 / (twice the focal length) at a minimum, and back off of that if I have to. But it is my starting point. At 200mm and 1/60th with no IS, you are asking for motion issues. :(

You could have gone to ISO 400, 1/240th very easily and your capture would have most likely been crystal clear.

ISO 400 1/640th f3.5 example... I could have gone down to ISO 200, where I did most of this shoot, but ISO 400 does nothing to the final results. I would rather have too fast a shutter at a higher ISO than too slow a shutter at ISO 100, especially with the 5D3 or 6D.

ISO 800, where we were mixing it up under trees, etc. and I never brought it down, so shutter speed went way up. No issues though with noise.]

Yeah this makes sense but I'm using off camera lighting so my ISO shouldn't need to be too high. Some of the shots are at 70mm 1/60 and still missed focus.




  
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HazemG
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Mar 28, 2014 09:35 |  #32

Charlie wrote in post #16792518 (external link)
I was under the assumption that he was using off camera flash, and if that's the case, slow shutter can actually work in some scenarios, and high shutter speeds not an option.

he'd be cap at 1/160 with the 6D unless he's familiar with HSS. Anyhow the guys in flash department can help, but if he's severely backlit like the first image?, flash can freeze the shot, just set it up on second curtain.

Your assumption is correct, I am using off camera flash. I am indeed capped at 1/180. So flash can help stop motion even with a slower shutter speed, correct? Also when you say set it up on second curtain, what do you mean by this? Thanks Charlie




  
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Mar 28, 2014 09:37 |  #33

I was using fill flash with my shots, and still made sure the shutter was faster just to be safe, but I understand. Are you using one shot or AI Servo? Is it motion blur you are seeing or just a shifted DOF? Center point AF, I assume too?

For example, on the boxing pose, his arm hair is pretty sharp, but his face seems to fall outside the DOF. Something shifted during the shot, either you or he, or there is a front-focusing issue perhaps.

For the gal looking over her shoulder, it appears that it was underexposed, and then brought back up during post to lighten it, then really sharpened, probably oversharpened. This sharpened the noise as well that appears from bringing the exposure slider up. Just a guess by looking at the resulting JPG.

I am not really seeing an issue on the first one other than what appears to be again a sharpening issue.


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HazemG
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Mar 28, 2014 09:45 |  #34

TeamSpeed wrote in post #16792575 (external link)
I was using fill flash with my shots, and still made sure the shutter was faster just to be safe, but I understand. Are you using one shot or AI Servo? Is it motion blur you are seeing or just a shifted DOF? Center point AF, I assume too?

For example, on the boxing pose, his arm hair is pretty sharp, but his face seems to fall outside the DOF. Something shifted during the shot, either you or he, or there is a front-focusing issue perhaps.

I use the outer points and don't recompose or shift. The boxing shot was my fault, I couldn't get the composition so I used an outer point on his ear I believe. So that is a bad example.

However the other ones I used the outer points and locked on to the eye. It was really cold out and I was a bit rushed so that may have added to it. I'll start using a faster shutter if I can, I don't want to roll the dice anymore.




  
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Mar 28, 2014 09:46 |  #35

HazemG wrote in post #16792570 (external link)
Your assumption is correct, I am using off camera flash. I am indeed capped at 1/180. So flash can help stop motion even with a slower shutter speed, correct? Also when you say set it up on second curtain, what do you mean by this? Thanks Charlie

Your focus looks ok, you've got motion blur.

images 1 and 2 are backlit correct? if so, motion blur wont be too much of a factor, unless ambient light spills over your subject (looks like it does a little). 1/180 wont be an issue and if you can shoot higher SS, then shoot higher SS. The sun in this photo can be deceptive since you're shooting really low SS, I can tell it's pretty dimly lit, so if you make your subjects completely backlit, lower shutter can work. Flash can fire right when your shutter opens or when it closes. Second curtain is when it closes.

Essentially, you camera opens the shutter for the ambient background exposure, then as it's about to close, it fires off the flash to expose the subject, thus preventing motion blur.

better demonstration here: http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=Dfn4k0n5wSc (external link)


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Mar 28, 2014 10:02 |  #36

Charlie wrote in post #16792599 (external link)
Your focus looks ok, you've got motion blur.

images 1 and 2 are backlit correct? if so, motion blur wont be too much of a factor, unless ambient light spills over your subject (looks like it does a little). 1/180 wont be an issue and if you can shoot higher SS, then shoot higher SS. The sun in this photo can be deceptive since you're shooting really low SS, I can tell it's pretty dimly lit, so if you make your subjects completely backlit, lower shutter can work. Flash can fire right when your shutter opens or when it closes. Second curtain is when it closes.

Essentially, you camera opens the shutter for the ambient background exposure, then as it's about to close, it fires off the flash to expose the subject, thus preventing motion blur.

better demonstration here: http://www.youtube.com​/watch?v=Dfn4k0n5wSc (external link)

Second curtain sync doesnt prevent motion blur any more than first curtain. It just changes where you see it. As long as the flash is balanced with the ambient you run the risk of motion blur. If the flash is approx 2 stops brighter than the ambient you can freeze motion blur with flash duration.




  
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Mar 28, 2014 10:16 |  #37

HazemG wrote in post #16792564 (external link)
I am used to shooting at 100 since I use off camera lighting. I'm really perplexed as to how I got great shots with a slower shutter then yesterday didn't fare as well. The only thing I can think of is the lighting may have been a little more dim yesterday as it was closer to sunset.. Is this possible?

I suppose it might be possible: providing (as gonzogolf stated) that your flash overpowered the ambient enough to freeze some motion.

HazemG wrote in post #16792564 (external link)
The only thing is I am also limited to 1/180 flash sync speed by the 6D. Is this going to be a problem with banding?

I haven't had any banding issues with my 6D, so I don't think you should have a problem. The best thing to do is try it and find out. :)


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HazemG
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Mar 28, 2014 13:00 as a reply to  @ neacail's post |  #38

I see. So second curtain sync isn't going to be a game changer?

I suppose I'll shoot at a bit faster of a shutter and maybe turn up the flash a bit??




  
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Mar 28, 2014 13:06 |  #39

Scatterbrained wrote in post #16790563 (external link)
If you want that nice crispy look from the reference photo......two words: "BronColor Para". :cool:

HOLY CRAP! a $12K umbrella? That's crazy.


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Mar 28, 2014 13:08 as a reply to  @ post 16792518 |  #40

I hate to sound disrespectful to everyone here, but it seems like everyone is pushing "buy more light" "strobes" and speed light etc when that image could be attained by using a hard natural light :cool:




  
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Mar 28, 2014 14:04 |  #41

Rittrato wrote in post #16793086 (external link)
I hate to sound disrespectful to everyone here, but it seems like everyone is pushing "buy more light" "strobes" and speed light etc when that image could be attained by using a hard natural light :cool:

Maybe if you have a 12ft scrim.




  
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Mar 28, 2014 14:16 |  #42

HazemG wrote in post #16793057 (external link)
I see. So second curtain sync isn't going to be a game changer?

I suppose I'll shoot at a bit faster of a shutter and maybe turn up the flash a bit??

Exactly. As Gonzo pointed out, meter the background/sky, set your camera to be about two stops down, then set your strobes to match the camera settings.


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Mar 28, 2014 14:17 |  #43

Rittrato wrote in post #16793086 (external link)
I hate to sound disrespectful to everyone here, but it seems like everyone is pushing "buy more light" "strobes" and speed light etc when that image could be attained by using a hard natural light :cool:

I feel so disrespected right now!:mad:

;):lol:


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Mar 28, 2014 14:19 |  #44

Nukehed wrote in post #16793080 (external link)
HOLY CRAP! a $12K umbrella? That's crazy.

Yeah, but it makes the $800 knock off seem like a real steal!:lol:


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Mar 28, 2014 14:39 |  #45

gonzogolf wrote in post #16793207 (external link)
Maybe if you have a 12ft scrim.

You don't even need a scrim :cool:




  
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