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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre General Photography Talk 
Thread started 17 Jan 2012 (Tuesday) 08:15
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Show us your "Brenizer Method" shots!

 
morph2_7
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Apr 23, 2014 13:12 |  #1051

waterrockets wrote in post #16855747 (external link)
Interesting effect. I like it. So you changed focus during the set?

I've never attempted the technique but my wild guess is focus should never change or else everything will be in focus. Kinda beats the purpose. I may be completely wrong.




  
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waterrockets
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Apr 23, 2014 13:38 |  #1052

morph2_7 wrote in post #16855760 (external link)
I've never attempted the technique but my wild guess is focus should never change or else everything will be in focus. Kinda beats the purpose. I may be completely wrong.

You're correct. I've only made a couple attempts, and those were manual focus, unchanged in the set. The shots above look like there were a set of shots made in focus, around the subject, and a set made out of focus for the surrounding areas. Everything in the shots appears to be far enough away to focus at or very near infinity though, so the basic version of this method is out the window.


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morph2_7
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Apr 23, 2014 13:40 |  #1053

waterrockets wrote in post #16855822 (external link)
Everything in the shots appears to be far enough away to focus at or very near infinity though, so the basic version of this method is out the window.

Ah, I see your point. I'll sit tight and wait for explanation on this shot.




  
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digital ­ paradise
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Apr 23, 2014 13:44 |  #1054

waterrockets wrote in post #16855747 (external link)
Interesting effect. I like it. So you changed focus during the set?

I guess you can say that. The focus point was in the middle and I moved down to where I wanted it and then just worked on how strong the blur is and and the transition point.


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Apr 23, 2014 15:06 |  #1055

digital paradise wrote in post #16852637 (external link)
I guess fake ones using PS tilt shift aren't allowed?

I would keep this thread as photos taken using the actual Brenizer Method, as that is what the point of this thread is :)

There are plenty of other threads for digitally-added effects.




  
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digital ­ paradise
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Apr 23, 2014 17:22 |  #1056

davidmtml wrote in post #16856043 (external link)
I would keep this thread as photos taken using the actual Brenizer Method, as that is what the point of this thread is :)

There are plenty of other threads for digitally-added effects.

No problem. I did ask and no one responded. :)


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Apr 23, 2014 17:44 |  #1057

digital paradise wrote in post #16856347 (external link)
No problem. I did ask and no one responded. :)

No problem on this side either! Now go out and try a real Brenizer :grin:




  
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Josh ­ Young
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Apr 23, 2014 23:50 |  #1058

My first gut reaction was, "that doesn't look real." But I didn't want to call anybody out unless I had the fact :). In addition to the blur incorrectly placed in some places, the photo looks like it was shot at around 70-100mm maybe (I'm still learning how to see focal length :p ). With the Brenizer we'd end up on the wide side of the focal length typically.




  
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Josh ­ Young
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Apr 23, 2014 23:55 |  #1059

Here's one on my youngest daughter :). Natural light with just a bit of reflector for fill.

40 Shots with 5D3 and Sigma 85 at 1.8

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Martin ­ Dixon
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Apr 24, 2014 08:16 |  #1060

Josh Young wrote in post #16857163 (external link)
Here's one on my youngest daughter :). Natural light with just a bit of reflector for fill.

Josh, your shots are inspiring - I now have a Samyang 85mm f/1.4 and have tried a couple of tests - e.g. with 22 shots shot wide open, but the combining process just go horribly wrong and alignment and perspective is awful. I have tried Hugin and photoshop. Couuld you possibly give me some advice especially:

a) how do you hand hold your camera and in what sequence do you shoot the images.
b) how much overlap is used (from the previous example it looks like a lot more overlap than I tried)
c) what settings do you use to combine the images (photoshop: auto?)
d) do you need to fix alignment errors - if so how do you go about that?


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Josh ­ Young
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Apr 24, 2014 12:23 |  #1061

Thanks Martin.

A couple of things I've learned doing this for the past several months.

1. Tripods definitely help. If you're not sure your technique is right, start with this first. If the shots don't merge right even with a tripod (just a regular one, no need for a pano head), then it's probably due to a couple of other factors.

Which brings us to...

2. Straight lines suck :). Merging straight lines sometimes require the precision of a tripod or even one with a pano head

3. Context is important. Pick a scene that has different elements. If it's too similar (ie. blue sky with minimal cloud), then photoshop will get confused

4. More overlap is better than less. The recommended is 1/3 overlap, but more doesn't hurt for sure.

5. When in doubt, shoot more / wider. I always find myself cropping quite a bit. In the past, I've shot myself in the foot by not including enough shots (usually foreground).

6. My computer is older, so I just processed my full image RAW into 6 MP files. Even then I still end up with a 30-70 MP file :).

7. DO NOT crop / alter the dimension of the shot in any way prior to merging them, as this will change their overall size (if you size down like I do).

8. It goes without saying, but keep the exposure (shutter speed, aperture, and iso) constant, as well as the White BALANCE (this is the one I always forget). If you shoot raw, that last part isn't as crucial, but it still is annoying trying to manually set the WB of 40 shots afterward :).

I just use auto in photoshop's photo merge. it gets me 95% there.

Once you're quite successful with the tripod, then you can try graduating yourself from the tripod.

If you want to practice, practice in the backyard, as there are less straight lines than inside the house.

LMK how that works for you.


In the last shot, 30 shots will probably get me that frame. I shot more and cropped a fair amount.




  
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Martin ­ Dixon
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Apr 24, 2014 12:52 |  #1062

Josh Young wrote in post #16858335 (external link)
A couple of things...

Thanks for your invaluable reply! I was beginning to guess some of these, but now I will save lots of time not having to do so much testing.

Glad you just use photoshop, that seems easier. I have found some oddities appearing using PS (extra black or white lines), but I think they would be easy to clean up afterwards.

I was starting with lots of straight lines and these just went haywire! Will let you know if/when I get a decent shot.

Thanks again!!!


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Josh ­ Young
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Apr 24, 2014 15:54 |  #1063

Glad I could help. I do get some "bald spots" from time to time where I forgot to properly overlap. Fortunately with these blurred background cloning a bit of fill in shouldn't be too difficult :)




  
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Apr 24, 2014 15:55 as a reply to  @ Martin Dixon's post |  #1064

How much does the "order" of shots help LR. I.e. I have been told get one full shot of subject then start top left above move right then down then back left then down then back right... etc.

Does that help at all or am I overthinking it


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Josh ­ Young
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Apr 24, 2014 16:53 |  #1065

I've done it all sorts of ways: top to bottom, side to side, all around. I've even shot a whole scene, and then decided that I needed to get more foreground and added it later (of course the key is to not move at all so even if I momentarily put the camera down, I can pick up roughly the same starting point :).

One thing that helps me is previsualizing the frame beforehand and see if the scene has enough contrasting features or colors. Large patches of green grass without additional distinguishing features (like trees or shrubs, bare patches, or even the horizon) are going to be hard to stitch together. If as you're shooting your frame, you came across something like this (all green grass, all blue sky or all grey pavement...etc), try moving it slightly just to catch a glimpse of the tree / horizon / concrete / whatever else that is semi unique. That will help anchor that frame to the rest of the picture




  
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Show us your "Brenizer Method" shots!
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