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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 01 May 2014 (Thursday) 12:12
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The quadra killer AKA Cheetahstand CL-600

 
abbadon31
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Post edited 24 days ago by abbadon31. (2 edits in all)
     
May 01, 2014 12:12 |  #1

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After some testing with this unit here are my finding, these may very from camera to camera/ unit to unit/accessory to accessory.

Since this unit does not have HSS and I'm testing the unit on flash duration. Using both the Cells IIc and the YN-622c
I get useable images on the 7d 1/8000
I got useable images on the 1D mk3 between 1/5000 and 1/6400
I get useable images on the 5D mK3 1/2500
I did have to aim the head above my target focus point on the 5DmkIII to get a cleaner frame

I got better result using the cells II C over the yn-622c
When the new yn-rt comes out I will be able to trim the timing so I can get a better result. Again this is not true HSS, so please make sure we all understand this.

I shot high speed shutter on both the 5DmkIII, 1DmkIII and the 7D and got f/5.6 at 8 feet at 1/200 at ISO 100 1/32 power and no misfires shot 30 frames on each camera.

I got over 500 full power pops on a new charge at 1/1 power
This battery should last me all day on a normal shoot; since I normally shoot 1/2 power on the 360 in full sun using the dough boy.

There is a slight power difference since the new flash bulb sits further into the modifier on the cl-600 to old flash head on EX600/EP600 I got f/64 and I get f/54 on the CL-600 at full power not enough for me to worry about or effect my style of shooting. I tested the EX600, ES-600P and the CL-600 all with out modifiers and they all gave me the same power reading.

I would not fire the unit at 1/1 power consistent and allow some space for cooling.

The led is about a 100watt bulb and the quadra is equal to 50watt bulb I tested with a light meter.

The recyle time is about 2 sec and stays consistent thru out the battery unlike the quadra where it gets slower after 100 pops using the old batteries.

I will be testing the CL-600 more and running more test, but the unit performs very well and super happy with it. Edward is going to make some changes to make the unit it different from other that might sell this unit. So i guess I have a beta version. ;)


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May 01, 2014 12:25 |  #2

some one has to do it, so i might as well go ahead and ask when it will be available. :D

really though, any guesses on how much variance from the top to bottom of the frame when using "hypersync"? In other words, when you say useable, do you mean barely noticeable, or able to be worked with in certain situations?


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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May 01, 2014 12:26 |  #3

Is it fair to say that what you are referring to as "not true HSS" is what other brands may be referring to as "Hyper Sync" or "ODS - Over Drive Sync". The flash fires once (not a burst of rapid flashes) and the camera shutter relies on a "long flash of light" to expose the frame evenly*?

* evenly being the noticeable variable




  
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abbadon31
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May 01, 2014 12:54 |  #4

hes gone wrote in post #16875095 (external link)
=he's gone;16875095]some one has to do it, so i might as well go ahead and ask when it will be available. :D

really though, any guesses on how much variance from the top to bottom of the frame when using "hypersync"? In other words, when you say useable, do you mean barely noticeable, or able to be worked with in certain situations?

the 7D was fine no gradient banding
the 1d and 5d had some gradient banding, all i had to do was use the gradient tool in lightroom/acr to fix the difference.

I would rather just use a ND filter and have a clean frame from the start, but if I had to; I could use HSS. I also could use that gradient banding as a plus like polarized filter to darken the sky or the ground.

SamFrench wrote in post #16875100 (external link)
Is it fair to say that what you are referring to as "not true HSS" is what other brands may be referring to as "Hyper Sync" or "ODS - Over Drive Sync". The flash fires once (not a burst of rapid flashes) and the camera shutter relies on a "long flash of light" to expose the frame evenly*?

* evenly being the noticeable variable

This is working off the flash burn off of the 1 flash. No pulses of light like HSS and no extra power drain on the battery.

I can do the same thing with the 360 it don't need to be in HSS setting on the flash only in the camera.


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May 01, 2014 12:55 |  #5

Scott, are you firing it while keeping the battery/control unit in the included bag?


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May 01, 2014 13:03 |  #6

I forgot to add this unit should be ready soon.

adammazza wrote in post #16875161 (external link)
Scott, are you firing it while keeping the batter/control unit in the included bag?

Yes and I find; while in the bag the top unit warms up quicker. This is why I would let it cool down after a good run and not to shoot consistent 1/1 power shots. I find at 1/2 power it don't warm up as much and could probably shoot the whole battery with out stopping.


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birrelln
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May 01, 2014 13:07 |  #7

Excellent. Very much awaiting release. The useable 1\8000 on a 7D is fantastic news as I doubt I will be able to pick up a ND filter for some time after ordering a light.

What is in the battery? Is it LiFePO4 like the previous Xenergizers?

Are you still planning a video review?

-Nate


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May 01, 2014 13:33 |  #8

birrelln wrote in post #16875185 (external link)
Excellent. Very much awaiting release. The useable 1\8000 on a 7D is fantastic news as I doubt I will be able to pick up a ND filter for some time after ordering a light.

What is in the battery? Is it LiFePO4 like the previous Xenergizers?

Are you still planning a video review?

-Nate

It is 12.8V / 8000mAh Li-ion same as the old xenergizer.

I will be doing a video later tonight.


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May 01, 2014 14:52 |  #9

Thanks Scott.
Any needed extras for mounting modifiers?

I'm guessing it's like the Xengierizer and is a bowens mount correct?


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May 01, 2014 15:32 |  #10

Yes it is bowens S mount
On my last video, I said that adapters on the quadra pushes the head back to far. On the CL-600 the tube hang out further, so mounting an adapter like the bowens to elinchrom will effect it less.


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May 01, 2014 17:23 as a reply to  @ abbadon31's post |  #11

Ohh god. I may actually want to switch from speedotron.


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Post edited over 5 years ago by abbadon31.
     
May 02, 2014 01:08 |  #12

Battle Tested

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abbadon31
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May 02, 2014 16:23 |  #13

pyrojim wrote in post #16875680 (external link)
Ohh god. I may actually want to switch from speedotron.


Really speedotron is alot of power for a good price


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May 03, 2014 03:28 |  #14

Here is a quick video showing the size and some info of the CL-600 to the Quadra

http://youtu.be/eZwcpA​pFTJw (external link)

Will do a full video of just the CL-600 this weekend


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May 03, 2014 07:05 |  #15

Nice comparison Scott.
That burst firing at the end was impressive. Would make for a great dancing or other action series.


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The quadra killer AKA Cheetahstand CL-600
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