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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 14 May 2014 (Wednesday) 17:06
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Advice on shooting this style with my 5DM3

 
kat.hayes
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May 14, 2014 17:06 |  #1

I really like the soft look and the colors of photos such as the ones here: http://www.florabellac​ollection.com …se-photoshop-actions.html (external link)

I understand that this website is selling actions to be used in Photoshop to change the look of photos, though I have seen photos that look this way when they are supposedly all done in camera.Perhaps this is simple to achieve, I am a beginner.

I am using a 5DM3 and a EF 24-70mm and I am still a newbie to photography and my camera

I have been taking photos outside in the early evening when there is still plenty of light, though it is very soft. I’m shooting in TV mode, whitebalance = shade, with an f of either 5.6 or 6.3, ISO of around 200-300

1.) Can this style of photography be replicated with just the camera and no filters?
2.) Is there anything about my settings that I can change to come closer to this style without using lens filters or Photoshop?

Thanks in advance for any information.




  
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MalVeauX
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May 14, 2014 18:20 |  #2

Heya,

Those are heavily processed. Personally I don't care for it, because all I see those filters doing is slightly over-exposing to basically white out skin to make it smooth, and heavily saturates to pop color.

Also, don't shoot in TV mode here. Go Manual, or AV. You want to control aperture to be wide at all times, and unchanging. Use ISO to push the shutter speed to a fast enough value to avoid motion blur (1/100s is often enough, but maybe shoot closer to 1/200s or faster if possible, to avoid all blur and get the sharpest you can get, since your lens lacks IS, faster shutter speed compensates for this; heck, push it to 1/400s if you can, or faster. Again, faster is less blur and sharper image. You get exposure by pushing ISO higher, the 5D3 can handle the ISO just fine, so don't be afraid to push it).

But the base photos are being done with shallow depth of field. So generate that however you wish. With your 24-70, you can do that by opening the aperture up as wide as it goes (2.8 I assume). The closer you get to your model, distance wise, the more narrow the depth of field will get. So wide aperture plus close distance equates to a very thin depth of field. Meter on their face. Focus on eyes.

If you use the 24~35mm end of your lens, there is distortion in facial features. For portraits it's typical to work at 50~70mm on that lens, to avoid distortion of features (like noses getting big and bulbous). But that's not to say you can't use the 24mm end, for creative stuff. Just be aware of the distortion.

I would use the 50~70mm end, at F2.8, outside in the environment. Make sure there's nothing behind your model for a vast distance. This will help generate more blur combined with the wide aperture and close to subject distance. That's how you isolate the model from the environment.

1. Work on getting correctly exposed photographs with the properties you want, before you worry so much about getting plugins to automatically over-expose and smooth out skin for the `glam' look. Become a photographer before you become a painter.

2. Yes, see above. Don't use TV. Use Manual or AV. You want to control aperture always. TV doesn't let you control aperture. Use ISO, it's fine to pump it up, just get exposure correct and it won't matter. Nothing wrong with ISO 1600~3200 on that 5D3, so don't be afraid to go there. It goes higher than that. But you shouldn't need that much for portrait, just used it as an example.

Lighting. Lighting. Lighting. Those photos may or may not be all natural light, or a mix of ambient and supplemented fill from a speedlite, strobe, or whatever. But I'm betting there's lighting involved, it's too even for even natural light. I use portable wireless speedlites in small softboxes outside when I do portraits. I also do natural light if the sky is playing ball. Otherwise, I use a portable softbox (or umbrella) setup. Portraiture is all about lighting. If you slightly over-expose skin, with a speed lite from a softbox, you'll notice that it smooths the skin and gives that smooth angel look, without any processing at all.

Very best,


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ra40
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May 14, 2014 23:04 |  #3

+1 on using aperture mode to control DOF and a much winder lens opening like f 2.8.

With your 24-70, the longer end at 70 would be my suggestion. Those pics from that web site are likely from a 70-200/2.8 or 135/2.8. You can get the base image and the rest will be post massaging techniques.

Lightroom can do this pretty easily but it lacks a means to mask for certain effects. With the brush tool, you can set a minus value like -50 to -100 for clarity and sharpness then alter the exposure and color temp. Same can be done to the foreground using the gradient filter with similar settings. The effects can be stacked to get what you desire. Can probably do similar in PS Elements and other basic editors.

Here's a quickie done in Lightroom, took about 20 seconds for this base effect. G15 at arms length for a selfie. EXIF data should be 28 mm at f2.8. A few adjustment of the hue sliders and luminance would dial it in more.

*The Mrs. would kill me for putting that shot up...:razz:


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ra40
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May 15, 2014 12:56 as a reply to  @ ra40's post |  #4

Thought about it a bit more and the section for post processing techniques would probably be the better place. That aside:

In a regular editor, duplicate the layer then use a Gaussian blur to the strength appropriate, 1.5-6 pixels say. Adjust color balance to the tonality desired then using an add or erase brush with a modest amount of feathering apply the effect around the subject. Adjusting strength by how much opacity is desired to the layer.




  
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jefzor
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May 15, 2014 16:23 |  #5

Looks like you need Photoshop (or Gimp, if you want something free) to get most of those effects.
Some of it can't be replicated in camera (split toning for example), other things, like a warm tint and low contrast can be replicated (If you shoot against the sun with a filter and your white balance set to cloudy, for example)

You could increase saturation and contrast in your picture styles, but it'll never be the same as careful post processing.


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apersson850
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May 16, 2014 02:06 as a reply to  @ jefzor's post |  #6

In my opinion, the before on the linked web site looks better than the after images.


Anders

  
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Submariner
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May 16, 2014 05:06 |  #7

apersson850 wrote in post #16907921 (external link)
In my opinion, the before on the linked web site looks better than the after images.

I totlly agree! Go with the before any day.

If that was the best I could get out of a 5D3!
I would be gutted, and it would be for sale!
Come to think of it same applies for my old 7d and Sony Slt A77.


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Paulstw
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May 16, 2014 05:18 as a reply to  @ Submariner's post |  #8

It used to drive me insane when I saw pics like this. Not because I didn't like them, but because I knew that one day one client would ask for their pics to be processed in either this way or another way.

Granted clients or anyone like your pics for your style, and that's it. However, to get to "Your style" you tend to go through a myriad of differences is processing styles till you get to the one you love and feel confident in. I advise to walk this journey on your own but with some help on colour correction techniques and the like and you can process the images in anyway you want. Look beyond the picture. Look at the shadows, midtones and highlights, see what colour they are, and try using adjustment layers in photoshop and alter the shadows, midtones and highlights until you are happy with the outcome.

Using Curves adjustment layers and editing each channel will help with this. Always work on new layers and keep the original separate for a reference point on skin tone.

Watching some youtube videos on colour correction can be very helpful too. Phlearn.com is quite a cool youtube channel and is quite lighthearted.

Hope that helps.




  
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Reservoir ­ Dog
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May 16, 2014 07:31 |  #9

Yes you can get pics like that strait out of the camera !

You have "style", already bundled in your camera (portrait, standard, landscape, faithful, etc ... these are "style")
you can personalize them, or create your own style with PictureStyle Editor (look on your Canon CD-DVD if you didn't install it on your computer)

This software is quite powerful and you make all "styles" you want, then when you have finish you save the style in your camera ( should be plug to the computer )

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=B4s2WxJfGzU (external link)


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Paulstw
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May 16, 2014 10:04 |  #10

Reservoir Dog wrote in post #16908232 (external link)
Yes you can get pics like that strait out of the camera !

You have "style", already bundled in your camera (portrait, standard, landscape, faithful, etc ... these are "style")
you can personalize them, or create your own style with PictureStyle Editor (look on your Canon CD-DVD if you didn't install it on your computer)

This software is quite powerful and you make all "styles" you want, then when you have finish you save the style in your camera ( should be plug to the computer )

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=B4s2WxJfGzU (external link)

What do you know. I had no idea you could do this. Cheers for that.




  
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digital ­ paradise
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May 16, 2014 10:23 |  #11

Actually of you want that look get Lightroom. There are thousands of free presets out there. Even ones you pay for are worth it. One click an you get any look you want.


Image Editing OK

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Reservoir ­ Dog
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May 16, 2014 12:09 |  #12

Here are some styles ready to use and install on the camera >

http://web.canon.jp …turestyle/file/​index.html (external link)

you can personalize them also ( there are quite common)
Personal Styles are huge time saving, when you start to "master" Picture Styles Editor (a bit disconcerting in the beginning, and plenty of tests), but after a huge time free of PP
Yes a huge time saving !!


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Advice on shooting this style with my 5DM3
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