The quadra killer AKA Cheetahstand CL-600

Yes I wrote it on the first page

dmward wrote in post #16915413
Scott,
Have you tried any SuperSync testing?
I know that you prefer ND filters but I'm sure there are others that would like to try this approach.
It looks like the t.1 duration is a bit short for SuperSync, especially with something like the YN-622c since it doesn't have ability to tune the FP sync delay.

My previous post was with the Pixel Kings. Distance was at 8feet, I'm sure that at 1/8000 I would have better results if the flash was closer to subject.

Rob used the pixel and I found i got better with the cells 2C then the yn-622c

abbadon31 wrote in post #16915722
Rob used the pixel and I found i got better with the cells 2C then the yn-622c

Yep, but every other shot was a misfire. Not sure why all batteries were charged, I actually switched over to duracell's batteries and again about every other fire was a misfire. So I placed the trusted cheetah remote set on and an nd filter and had absoulutely no misfires.

I may test the nikon ver TT1/TT5 tomorrow. The pixels are probably going in the garbage....

abbadon31 wrote in post #16915424
Yes I wrote it on the first page

When back and reread the first page. Yes you did. Thanks.

abbadon31 wrote in post #16908367
You are only suppose to run the modeling lamp for an hour at a time. Not sure what your asking about testing?

Godox are saying the LED modelling light should turn off automatically after 2 minutes with the RS pack? (so as not to damage the LED)


A few people have been asking about compatibility for the new RS heads with the previous ES pack, and Godox are saying the difference between the ES and RS packs is that the ES turns the modeling light off automatically after an hour, where the RS is only 2 minutes due to the LED modelling light.

So they don't recommend using the RS head with ES pack as its easy to forget to turn the LED off manually after 2 minutes.


I'm just trying to confirm if the RS head will actually work ok in the ES pack (without modelling light).
.

ES and RS has the same pin configuration the old ex does not. The new head has a way different chipboard in the head do to the new led light. I'm not willing to loose a new head to find out thou.

My led light stays on my version till I turn it off and ran it for an hour straight waiting for the auto hour turn off, so the 2 min might be something they added in the the new changes as well as a few other tweaks.

CL600外拍灯说明书_20140415.p​df page 7

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abbadon31 wrote in post #16916466
ES and RS has the same pin configuration the old ex does not. The new head has a way different chipboard in the head do to the new led light. I'm not willing to loose a new head to find out thou.

My led light stays on my version till I turn it off and ran it for an hour straight waiting for the auto hour turn off, so the 2 min might be something they added in the the new changes as well as a few other tweaks.

Ok thanks for that. It does sound like the 2 minute cut off for the LED may be a new update. Maybe the LED could possible have changed then as well.
.

Going to retest the cheetahsync/supersync again tonight on another cl-600 and see whats my new results yield. I don't like or use it, but I want to make sure it was just not a fluke in my first testing.

abbadon31 wrote in post #16919755
Going to retest the cheetahsync/supersync again tonight on another cl-600 and see whats my new results yield. I don't like or use it, but I want to make use it was just not a fluke in my first testing.

Scott, when testing are you using a plain background of some kind so that the gradient from brightest to darkest is clearly visible?

I use Mannie against a piece of white foam core.

When translating that to outside with bright ambient with a natural background it helps with positioning the subject since that is where the light has to be concentrated. And also to keep it off close by background or foreground elements.

CheetahSync/SuperSync is handy when needing to get something done quickly. ND approach offers more control options.

I think the new YN-622 RX and maybe the Cactus V6 might be what we will need to get the results we want. Since both of those units will have trim control.

Trim control will help. The Pocket Wizard ControlTL triggers have Hyper Sync control in the setup menu in the utility. Its been awhile since I tried to get a setup to work with a monolight. One thing that does have a major impact is the t.1 duration.

Here is a table for the CL-600 from Lenscarta:

Flash duration at full power, t.1. 1/1500th sec
Flash duration at half power, t.1 1/1000th sec
Flash duration at quarter power, t.1 1/900th sec
Flash duration at eigth power, t.1 1/1000th sec
Flash duration at sixteenth power, t.1 850 th sec
Flash duration at thirtysecond power, t.1 1/600th sec

These times are much too fast for HyperSync.

The max x sync speed of a shutter is near the fastest speed that the shutter curtains can travel.
So, even though the nominal shutter speed is 1/8000 of a second, the length of time the shutter is traveling across the sensor is closer to 1/250 of a second for an 7D. That means that at 1/32nd power a CL-600 is only lighting the first half of the shutter travel. And considering that the light has to fire before the shutter opens, its even worse.

That's the reason there is a gradient of light fall off as the shutter travels across the sensor, the tail is getting weaker and weaker. Thus less light to excite the sensor photo sites. Trimming gets the actual fire signal closer to the shutter open time maximize the light available. That also means that the beginning side of the tail will be even brighter which may end up making the gradation even more severe.

That the advantage of ND filters, the block the light uniformly across the image. That's also the benefit of the FP burn associated with HSS and H mode on the Cheetah CL-180/360. It expends the energy in the capacitor over the duration of the shutter travel, less light per photo site but a more constant amount of light for each photo site from beginning to end of travel.

Unit 3

Cheetah sync /super sync /fast sync

Cells II c / 5D MkIII

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abbadon31 wrote in post #16921755
In bright sun the gradient is not going to be so noticeable.

That is the beauty of this approach. In real shooting situations the gradient caused by the diminishing tail isn't apparent providing one takes care to keep the low exposure portion of the gradient away from the subject. i.e. with Canon make sure the subject is low in a horizontal frame.

When shooting vertical it pays to put the light camera left, presuming base of camera is to the right. That places the subject in such a way, relative to the light, that the portion of the subject that receives the weakest end of the tail is closest to the light while the portion receiving the brightest portion of the tail s farthest from the light. This helps minimize the gradient.