RicahrdGregory wrote in post #16931329
Thanks all!! Good point about not worrying too much about the magnification - I think it comes down to the final image as stated and how it appears - the rest is superficial.
So just to reiterate - 1:1 is the object at it's lifesize form on the sensor, and from a Macro enthusiast point of view, it's a true to the macro term of a macro image. Anything else: ie 1:3, and 1:4, etc is regarded as not being a true macro shot? I think that's a bit challenging pending the object...for example shooting a subject at always the minimal focus distance of 30cm (for the Canon 100mm) such that 1:1 is always achieved sounds a bit too restrictive and impractical.
Sure, it's restrictive, and can be impractical, it's all in that you the photographer are hoping to achieve.
The 1:1 designation means that if you frame a "subject" and focus on that subject, what the lens "captures" and delivers to your sensor has the same "dimension" as what shows up on your sensor. And, the closer you get to MFD, the "smaller" the subject that can be captured.
So, let's say you are shooting a nice "medium size" flower/bug/whatever, and want to get the thing fully framed, you'd back up to where you could do that, then you'd focus. The "scale" shows the approximate distance of your focus.
But if you are wanting to shoot a small flower/bug/whatever...if that subject is small enough to fully frame it at the MFD, then you have a chance! Focus, and the scale should show the 1:1 (MFD) setting/ Be aware, though, that at that closeness, for a Macro lens, the depth of field (the area in visually "acceptable" focus) will be very narrow!