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Thread started 03 Jun 2010 (Thursday) 19:41
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LEE "Square" Circular Polarising Filter

 
xpfloyd
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Jun 11, 2014 01:48 |  #436

Jalal - Did you have the CPL (or any other filter) in the closest spot to the lens? i.e. you didnt leave a gap to your first filter did you?

I have never had that with my 4x4 CPL but it does look like light has been reflecting between the lens and the filter. However I should point out that when I shoot in conditions like that I usually hold my hand up to act as a lens hood as the shot is taken. If it is light getting in due to the position of the sun no brand of filter will prevent what you are seeing. Best thing would be to just create a bit of shade on the lens/filters while the shot is taking with your hand or a filter cloth as Jordan has suggested


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MJ23FE
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Jun 11, 2014 06:14 |  #437

When I'm using my 105mm CPL attached to my FK with no other filters I do not have this issue at all. I've never had this issue period except with the 4x4. I did use the closest slot to the lens, but light will always be able to get between the 4x4 CPL and the lens because it's not sealed like the Big & Little Stoppers. You're also going to be rotating it as necessary to achieve polarization so that means more surface area on the CPL edges for light to catch and reflect through.

Holding something to block light would help I'm sure, but that's not very reasonable if you're not on a tripod. I'd recommend the Schneider at that point since the edges are sealed.

I simple love the Schneider Schott glass that B+W uses.

-Jalal


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Charlie
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Jun 11, 2014 13:03 |  #438

I wonder if some nail polish would do the trick to seal the edges. As for the foamy sealers, my haida filters has an extra set of foam sealers, so that would be no issue for me.


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dlleno
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Jun 23, 2014 18:43 as a reply to  @ Charlie's post |  #439

Flare aside, there are really two important things to consider with respect to the usefulness of the square 4x4 CPL along with an ND grad (with no independent rotation).

1. polarized light from sky is fairly consistent in its orientation with respect to the horizon. This is why, once you dial in your screw-in CPL it generally doesn't need further adjusting as you move the camera around the compass (assuming level orientation is maintained). That is also why the LEE 4x4 "works" even after having aligned an ND grad to the horizon: LEE makes an attempt to orient the filter to its geometric sides in a way that approximately corresponds to polarized light in nature. there is some variability here, to be sure, so you might not be dialed in exactly to "maximum filtering", but you will see some benefit.


2. Polarized light from reflections is random in its orientation which means it is very likely NOT going to correspond with polarized light from the sky. Thus, some precise rotation of the CPL will be required to achieve the desired results to remove reflections from rocks, surfaces of water, etc. For this reason, a round, screw-in CPL mounted onto the LEE 105mm adapter is the only viable solution.


Additional observations:

3. I don't see the benefit of pointing a square CPL at the sun, unless you are using it as an ND. There is very little if any polarized light in the sky (except at the very wide angles, in which case the effect is quite non-uniform across the frame) and you have virtually no chance of controlling reflections from water/rocks, etc. due to the lack of rotational control.

4. By far the most flexible and effective use of the square CPL will be in the situation where an ND grad is not used, and you can rotate the CPL however you want, to produce the desired result, with or without a solid ND such as a big or little stopper.

5. the most stunning work seen in this thread appears to avoid the very severe flare conditions that Jalal is pointing -- bright sunlight overhead and even with the sun nearly in the frame. This seems to be a valid disadvantage of the square CPL

6. the vignetting advantage afforded by the 4x4 CPL appears to align with those use cases where the CPL effect itself is the most non-uniform (at very wide FOV)

7. If one's work depends on use of both (a) an ND grad and (b) use of a CPL to control reflections, then the best solution is one that provides independent rotation, i.e. the (more expensive) 105mm option. However, If one is truly dedicated to those UWA situations where the polarizing effects are quite non-uniform across the FOV AND those same situations are not disadvantaged by the flare properties of the exposed-edges, then the 4x4 represents a cost advantage

I guess I'll keep looking into the 105mm options, esp. the value of coatings (flare/ghosting), and filter thickness (to avoid vignetting).


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dlleno
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Jun 23, 2014 18:51 |  #440

outstanding photo. may I ask what the contribution of the CPL was? looks like perhaps near the top of the photo in the sky, due to the fact that there is some angle to the sun, and the 4x4 CPL is naturally oriented to the horizon and it looks like there is plenty of reflection off of the water.

jdizzle wrote in post #12749913 (external link)
Zeiss 21, Lee 4x4 CPL, and Singh Ray 3 stop reverse GND.

QUOTED IMAGE


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400mm on a 1.6x body is still 400mm. sensors do not change lens physics...

  
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studlymonkey
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Aug 20, 2014 18:19 |  #441

Are you guys still running into slipping filter issues with the most current lee filter holder? Mine should get in this week and I don't want to risk dropping my cpl.


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Tareq
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Aug 20, 2014 18:29 |  #442

studlymonkey wrote in post #17108247 (external link)
Are you guys still running into slipping filter issues with the most current lee filter holder? Mine should get in this week and I don't want to risk dropping my cpl.

Well, do some precautions, such as

try to place the filter in the holder on the bed soft smooth blankets on so low hight, if the filter stuck in the holder and didn't get out or slipped then you are fine.

Give it a little shake up and down or whatever, just make sure how tight the holder holding that filter, do that regularly, maybe within the time the holder getting loose.

In all cases, don't do things in rush or hurry and so extreme wide, if you don't know how to take care of your gear including filters and the holder then don't blame the manufacturer, if it will not be safe stuck in the holder then give up to find anything that would do.


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KaosImagery
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Aug 21, 2014 07:29 |  #443

I just purchased a Foundation Kit, BS and square polarizer. I also purchased some used Lee ND grads. All these filters fit snuggly in the holder. But Tareq's advice is good, test yours first in a safe environment to make sure!


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xpfloyd
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Aug 21, 2014 08:06 |  #444

studlymonkey wrote in post #17108247 (external link)
Are you guys still running into slipping filter issues with the most current lee filter holder? Mine should get in this week and I don't want to risk dropping my cpl.

I think most peoples slipping problems is when they try and walk with the camera still attached to the tripod and the filters and holder still attached to the lens. I make sure I take the fliter holder and filters off if im going to move position.

I have however dropped a Lee 3 stop hard grad into a fast flowing river but that was because I thought I had slid it into the holder correctly but had missed the slot on one side. Luckily it got caught in a swirling current and started going round in circles near the edge and I was able to jump in up to my knees and grab it


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kaitlyn2004
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Apr 11, 2016 21:26 |  #445

Forgive me for not reading all 30 pages here, but I am currently looking to add a CPL to my foundation kit. Having some difficulty figuring out if I want the 105mm option or the 4x4. Any advice/guidance?


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jlt23
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Apr 17, 2016 20:14 as a reply to  @ kaitlyn2004's post |  #446

I have both the 105 and 4x4 and I haven't even used the 105. I'm not sure why I haven't used it, but the 4x4 just works for me.


James

  
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LEE "Square" Circular Polarising Filter
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