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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 17 Jun 2014 (Tuesday) 10:44
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A mint 1DS3 or a 6D?

 
MalVeauX
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Jun 19, 2014 13:32 |  #16

Heya,

Sounds like the 6D would be better for your needs.

I think you'll find topping out at ISO 3200 to be a real drag, when you could get 3 more stops of ISO performance from the 6D for those low light events. That's the difference between motion blur, and no motion blur. For portraits it's near meaningless unless you're doing natural light only and doing lots of night shots. For events when you're not using flash, the more ISO the better, if it's clean. And the 6D's is as clean as it gets. I would only get a 1D series for "general" use if you could get a more modern 1D and had the money to burn (like a 1DIV or better). But for basically general use like you're looking at, I'd be looking at the most modern sensor for the money, and the 6D pretty much has it, short of the three times and higher more expensive modern 1D series.

In my book:

6D for portraits and general stuff requiring lots of lovely ISO.
1DIV for wildlife, adventure shooting, etc, where you encounter more environmental hazards.

Very best,


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svarley
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Jun 19, 2014 16:39 |  #17

I think the interface of the 1ds3 is far superior to the 6d (I have a 6d and a 1d3) but the features of the 6d would have me picking that one (size, weight, ISO performance etc)

If you operate in rainstorms or adverse conditions, get the 1. Otherwise get the 6




  
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MalVeauX
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Jun 19, 2014 16:41 |  #18

Heya,

Also, a lot of the features that make the 1D series great are rendered rather null if your lens is not equally weather resistant. Just a thought.

Very best,


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Jun 19, 2014 20:06 |  #19

I've owned the 1DS MIII and would pick it over the 6D in an instant. For portraits especially, the 1D sensor will have you drooling how good it is.

If you shoot primes try using the outer points on the 6D compared to the 1DS MIII and see how many in focus shots you get at f/1.8 down to f/1.2. That's when the superior focusing ability of the 1DS MIII leaves any lesser camera in the dust.

If I hadn't needed the money to pay off a huge loan for my college age student I'd still be in the Canon camp and shooting with the 1DS MIII. Loved that camera and how it worked with prime glass.


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Brain ­ Mechanic
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Jun 19, 2014 20:09 |  #20
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^^What if I used the same wonderful primes but used the center focus only.....wouldnt the 6D provide a superior image? Just a thought.


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EverydayGetaway
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Jun 19, 2014 20:10 |  #21

Thorrulz wrote in post #16982398 (external link)
I've owned the 1DS MIII and would pick it over the 6D in an instant. For portraits especially, the 1D sensor will have you drooling how good it is.

If you shoot primes try using the outer points on the 6D compared to the 1DS MIII and see how many in focus shots you get at f/1.8 down to f/1.2. That's when the superior focusing ability of the 1DS MIII leaves any lesser camera in the dust.

If I hadn't needed the money to pay off a huge loan for my college age student I'd still be in the Canon camp and shooting with the 1DS MIII. Loved that camera and how it worked with prime glass.

IMO you should use MF when doing portraits regardless of what camera you're using. You get full control over composition that way, it's faster (imo) and you know for sure if you've got the focus where you want it (since you're not just snapping the shutter once you get the confirmation as most people do).

Also, as a 6D owner, it's shots have just as much potential to leave you "drooling" even when shooting well above ISO6400 which the OP will for sure have to do if he's shooting concerts.


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bobbyz
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Jun 19, 2014 21:01 |  #22

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #16982407 (external link)
IMO you should use MF when doing portraits regardless of what camera you're using. You get full control over composition that way, it's faster (imo) and you know for sure if you've got the focus where you want it (since you're not just snapping the shutter once you get the confirmation as most people do).

Also, as a 6D owner, it's shots have just as much potential to leave you "drooling" even when shooting well above ISO6400 which the OP will for sure have to do if he's shooting concerts.

Personally I find harder to use MF even when shooting models which can stand still. But then I am looking for keeper rate of 8-9 shots out of 10. Maybe you guys are much better shooter at MF than me.

I tried different screen when I had 5dc and LV shooting holding a heavy lens at arms length is pain in the buxx.


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downhillnews
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Jun 19, 2014 21:37 |  #23

EverydayGetaway wrote in post #16982407 (external link)
IMO you should use MF when doing portraits regardless of what camera you're using. You get full control over composition that way, it's faster (imo) and you know for sure if you've got the focus where you want it (since you're not just snapping the shutter once you get the confirmation as most people do).

Also, as a 6D owner, it's shots have just as much potential to leave you "drooling" even when shooting well above ISO6400 which the OP will for sure have to do if he's shooting concerts.


Are you kidding the FF viewfinder is like looking through a keyhole. Its nowhere near a MF viewfinder and if a subject is moving even if shooting at F8 and strobes I am still using AF and if I am shooting at F1.8 ambient I sure as hell don't want to be trying to do manual focus on a breathing subject from 4 feet out.


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MalVeauX
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Jun 19, 2014 21:39 |  #24

bobbyz wrote in post #16982485 (external link)
Personally I find harder to use MF even when shooting models which can stand still. But then I am looking for keeper rate of 8-9 shots out of 10. Maybe you guys are much better shooter at MF than me.

I tried different screen when I had 5dc and LV shooting holding a heavy lens at arms length is pain in the buxx.

Manual focus is a skill. One simply learns to do it, and hones it.

I manual focus at F1.4 on my 8 month old nearly every day. Autofocus fails more often at this depth of field for nailing focus where I want, when I want. And I can do it at any composition.

Very best,


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gtrag94
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Jun 19, 2014 21:43 |  #25

Yeah, I don't know how/why anyone manually focuses anything except live view/tripod macro work. Just too hard to tell when something is in focus... eyelashes don't show up very well unless close headshot, and then that's hard anyway because of the naturally shallow depth of field.


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Hogloff
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Jun 19, 2014 22:23 |  #26
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tkbslc wrote in post #16977317 (external link)
So basically you are shooting things where the strengths of the 1D would be of little benefit. It's just going to be a heavy brick that is stuck at ISO 3200. And I don't just mean noise, it's H extended ISO range tops out at ISO 3200.

Meanwhile, you could be using ISO 25600 on the 6D and focus with center point pretty well in the dark.

That's ok if you want to always center your subject. I rented the 6d and it outer focus points are totally useless in anything but bright daylight. Personally I'd take the 1ds3 for it's AF anyway if it was offered at the same price as a 6D. The high iso of the 1ds3 is pretty damn good as well.




  
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Hogloff
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Jun 19, 2014 22:24 |  #27
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Copidosoma wrote in post #16977349 (external link)
^ this.

As great as it would be to own a 1Ds III I can't see it really benefiting you much for what you are shooting.

Focus, focus focus...key for shooting events, especially concerts where there is movement.




  
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Hogloff
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Jun 19, 2014 22:29 |  #28
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Brain Mechanic wrote in post #16982405 (external link)
^^What if I used the same wonderful primes but used the center focus only.....wouldnt the 6D provide a superior image? Just a thought.

Even the center point focus is not ad good. And then you are having your cameras deficiencies dictate your compositions...always centering your subject. The focus tracking of a 1-series run circles around the 6d and for rock concerts where there is a bunch of movement...tracking is very important.




  
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EverydayGetaway
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Jun 19, 2014 22:41 |  #29

bobbyz wrote in post #16982485 (external link)
Personally I find harder to use MF even when shooting models which can stand still. But then I am looking for keeper rate of 8-9 shots out of 10. Maybe you guys are much better shooter at MF than me.

I tried different screen when I had 5dc and LV shooting holding a heavy lens at arms length is pain in the buxx.

Using an EG-S screen I rarely have issues.

downhillnews wrote in post #16982533 (external link)
Are you kidding the FF viewfinder is like looking through a keyhole. Its nowhere near a MF viewfinder and if a subject is moving even if shooting at F8 and strobes I am still using AF and if I am shooting at F1.8 ambient I sure as hell don't want to be trying to do manual focus on a breathing subject from 4 feet out.

Look at my signature and then look at my flickr, I assure you that I throw away very few shots ;)

Stock focus screens aren't really good for focusing lenses faster than f/2.8, put in a precision matte screen and it's another story.

MalVeauX wrote in post #16982540 (external link)
Manual focus is a skill. One simply learns to do it, and hones it.

I manual focus at F1.4 on my 8 month old nearly every day. Autofocus fails more often at this depth of field for nailing focus where I want, when I want. And I can do it at any composition.

Very best,

This. I shoot pretty much everything with MF unless I'm using my Fuji, which ironically I find harder to MF with even though it has focus peaking in the EVF. It's a skill you have to work on, but once you do you won't think AF is a big deal. Even when I use my friend's 5D3 or my dad's 5Dii and various L lenses I usually MF, it just feels more natural to me at this point.


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Jun 19, 2014 23:24 |  #30

venom3300 wrote in post #16977300 (external link)
IDs3 if I were a pro

6D if for my personal use due to weight

+++1


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