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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 24 Feb 2009 (Tuesday) 16:50
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-=5D CLASSIC admirers, assemble! (6)

 
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kf095
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Jul 08, 2014 09:42 |  #7696

Daniel0663 wrote in post #17015772 (external link)
Some more milky way edits.

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ofH1​mn  (external link) . (external link) by Dan S Kim (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/odLy​k9  (external link) . (external link) by Dan S Kim (external link), on Flickr

QUOTED IMAGE
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/nWrn​qU  (external link) . (external link) by Dan S Kim (external link), on Flickr

Perfect!


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Johnny5D
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Jul 08, 2014 13:19 |  #7697

IMAGE: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/14602262055_97885599e6_b.jpg

Hi Im Johnny a weddingdocumentairy photographer
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MalVeauX
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Jul 08, 2014 17:56 |  #7698

IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3908/14606286494_ce332b3501_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ofH3​6L  (external link) IMG_8713 (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

5D classic, 35mm F2 IS.

"Dinner."

Very best,

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MalVeauX
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Jul 09, 2014 18:41 |  #7699

5D + Helios 44-2

IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3880/14612789491_b71792230e_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/oghn​dp  (external link) IMG_8799 (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

5D + 35 F2 IS

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5539/14615470672_d48b8c569e_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ogw7​eE  (external link) IMG_8785 (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

5D + 35 F2 IS

IMAGE: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/14429369520_eee0541209_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/nZ5h​R7  (external link) DPP_2210And7more_tonem​apped (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

Very best,

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benesotor
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Jul 09, 2014 20:18 |  #7700

Today was a reminder of the importance of carrying a backup to jobs. 5D mirror went kaput about 20 minutes into a gig making it useless. Had to resort to my GH2 which wasn't ideal but better than nothing.
Always worried this would happen!

Does anyone know if the free repair Canon offers applies to preowned cameras?


5D Mark II | 5D Classic | Zeiss 50mm f/1.7 Planar T* | Nikon 24mm AI f/2.8
Panasonic GH2

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jay125
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Jul 09, 2014 20:33 |  #7701

It does. I bought mine and I was maybe the 3rd owner?



feedback


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MalVeauX
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Jul 09, 2014 20:58 |  #7702

Hrm,

I don't suppose Canon still services the 5D do they? Discontinued in 2012 right? I'm wondering if I can have my shutter repaired, when it craps out. It's getting up there.

Very best,


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Aswald
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Jul 09, 2014 21:39 |  #7703

Afaik, 5D is still being supported but may not be for long. I had my 5D checked, calibrated and AF unit renewed a couple of months back. All parts have to be ordered from Japan as Canon svc don't really keep parts for this model.




  
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MalVeauX
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Jul 09, 2014 22:14 |  #7704

Hrm,

So basically for the cost, it's likely cheaper (or simply better for the cost) to get another 5D, rather than just have an old well-used one repaired? I got my 5D for $350, so I have no complaints. But I wouldn't mind fixing the shutter when it goes kaput, if it's only $200~300. Rather than buying another 5D for $500ish. But if the repair is closer to $400, then it just seems like if I wanted the 5D that I'd be better suited to buying another one. But at that point, I start to think I might as well save up for next year and treat myself to a 6D.

There's just something about the 5D look...

Very best,


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Aswald
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Jul 10, 2014 03:05 |  #7705

Yes, the larger pixel size does lend to a slightly more "organic" feel to the 5D pic I think. I'll always repair my gear as I know how I've cared for them. I'm not too perturb by cost due to that reason.

The 6D on the other and is also a beautifully made camera. Same beautiful pictures with features that'll push yr photography limits.




  
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benesotor
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Jul 10, 2014 06:09 |  #7706

MalVeauX wrote in post #17021934 (external link)
Hrm,

I don't suppose Canon still services the 5D do they? Discontinued in 2012 right? I'm wondering if I can have my shutter repaired, when it craps out. It's getting up there.

Very best,

To answer my own question...

Got in touch with my nearest Canon service center (Glasgow) and they said they'd do the job at no cost, no questions asked. So it seems Canon are still covering people, In the UK at least.


5D Mark II | 5D Classic | Zeiss 50mm f/1.7 Planar T* | Nikon 24mm AI f/2.8
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BallerStatus
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Jul 10, 2014 09:17 |  #7707

From a shoot with an E55 on Monday. Used the 5Dc and 24-105 or 85 1.8 for all the shots. Did great!

IMAGE: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--YNDCf1o-G8/U76blH69J2I/AAAAAAAAPjg/l5poqdpAKfs/s1600/E55+edits+(19+of+38).jpg

IMAGE: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pAShBcHj2fw/U76bqKPQ5nI/AAAAAAAAPkk/3gVYKEpCn5M/s1600/E55+edits+(27+of+38).jpg

IMAGE: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_vpOU5Bg98Q/U76bq8aFzJI/AAAAAAAAPks/vXLSajQht6o/s1600/E55+edits+(28+of+38).jpg

2 6D - 35 f1.4L, 135 f2L, 50 f1.8 STM, 85 f1.8
EOS M and M5 - 11-22 f4-5.6 IS, 22 f2
AE-1 Program - FD 50 f1.8
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tonylong
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Jul 10, 2014 23:19 |  #7708

Reinheim wrote in post #17017262 (external link)
I read somewhere that a minus 1 exposure compensation is needed for the 5D...
have most of you found this to be correct....thanks....J​oe

Reinheim wrote in post #17017548 (external link)
It seems the thrust of what I read was that the 5D has a tendency to slightly overexpose a scene, and so to offset that, set the exposure compensation to a minus 1 setting. Frankly I forget to watch that (and it will be caught in post processing). But, just wondered if there was some validity to the suggestion of a minus 1 setting. Thanks everyone for your input. Joe

When I hear that type of comment my conclusion is typically that the photographers are just not "getting it" as to exposures.

It's simple to test this: take a photo in an Auto mode of a bare wall. When you are metering before shooting the meter "needle" should show up at the center. After shooting, when viewing the histogram in the camera or in your software, the "spike" in your histogram should show up a bit to the left, because that's how our meters are geared to work, showing an exposure a bit darker than "middle".

If you get the proper histograms,note that the image luminosity typically won't match the actual lightness of the scene because the Auto function adjusts the exposure to be "medium". So, if you are shooting a light wall, the exposure will show it to be darker! But if the image displayed seems to bright, well, I'd lower the brightness of your monitor!

Myboostedgst wrote in post #17018056 (external link)
Interesting read. I knew it was about all bodies, but I just find that slightly over exposing causes me to blow out highlights too often. My post processing skills arent good and I can never seem to get the photos looking correct. I find I get better results from bringing up shadows, and since all of my photos are web size, I never find a big problem with noise.

When shooting Raw with Canon DSLRs, it has been found that you have some "headroom" with your highlights, meaning that what appears to be clipping can actually be "tamed" with our current Raw software. This is where ETTR/HAMSTTR can come in handy -- if you are shooting a scene with some bright highlights but also some important shadows you can expose to "push the highlights To The Right", maybe a bit more than you would like but then you can pull them back in software and your shadows will also have some room.

But realize that this only applies to Raw shooting, and that it takes some experience to get used to!

I did, though, get pointed to a demo that I tried and was pretty happy with! The point was to have a "target" that was white but had some detail, such as a white sheet of paper with "stuff" printed on it. The exercise was to make sure you had solid white centered in your viewfinder, then you cranked up your exposure/Exposure Compensation to where the white was metered at +3 EV, and take the shot!

Then in your Raw processor, dial down the Exposure and see how much detail shows up!

To get more use out of this, it's also good to set your in-camera Picture Style to Neutral, and then in the Neutral PS menu dial your Contrast and Saturation all the way back to -4. This will help to "tone down" the highlight blinkies/warnings after you take a shot so you won't be misled into thinking you are clipping things.

Again, these can be considerations when shooting Raw. Shooting jpeg will pretty much dump the advantages built in to the Raw data.


Tony
Two Canon cameras (5DC, 30D), three Canon lenses (24-105, 100-400, 100mm macro)
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Reinheim
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Jul 11, 2014 07:16 |  #7709

Thanks, Tony, for the insight. I shoot in RAW/JPEG so I can get the benefit of the RAW mode and can view the image easily on my monitor because it is in JPEG format as well.
Good tips, Tony....thanks, again, Joe

tonylong wrote in post #17024263 (external link)
When I hear that type of comment my conclusion is typically that the photographers are just not "getting it" as to exposures.

It's simple to test this: take a photo in an Auto mode of a bare wall. When you are metering before shooting the meter "needle" should show up at the center. After shooting, when viewing the histogram in the camera or in your software, the "spike" in your histogram should show up a bit to the left, because that's how our meters are geared to work, showing an exposure a bit darker than "middle".

If you get the proper histograms,note that the image luminosity typically won't match the actual lightness of the scene because the Auto function adjusts the exposure to be "medium". So, if you are shooting a light wall, the exposure will show it to be darker! But if the image displayed seems to bright, well, I'd lower the brightness of your monitor!

When shooting Raw with Canon DSLRs, it has been found that you have some "headroom" with your highlights, meaning that what appears to be clipping can actually be "tamed" with our current Raw software. This is where ETTR/HAMSTTR can come in handy -- if you are shooting a scene with some bright highlights but also some important shadows you can expose to "push the highlights To The Right", maybe a bit more than you would like but then you can pull them back in software and your shadows will also have some room.

But realize that this only applies to Raw shooting, and that it takes some experience to get used to!

I did, though, get pointed to a demo that I tried and was pretty happy with! The point was to have a "target" that was white but had some detail, such as a white sheet of paper with "stuff" printed on it. The exercise was to make sure you had solid white centered in your viewfinder, then you cranked up your exposure/Exposure Compensation to where the white was metered at +3 EV, and take the shot!

Then in your Raw processor, dial down the Exposure and see how much detail shows up!

To get more use out of this, it's also good to set your in-camera Picture Style to Neutral, and then in the Neutral PS menu dial your Contrast and Saturation all the way back to -4. This will help to "tone down" the highlight blinkies/warnings after you take a shot so you won't be misled into thinking you are clipping things.

Again, these can be considerations when shooting Raw. Shooting jpeg will pretty much dump the advantages built in to the Raw data.




  
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shutterpat
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Jul 11, 2014 09:25 |  #7710

Stoked !!!

5D + EF 300 F4L IS + 1.4xII <----

IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3793/9209162322_d461252eb6_b.jpg
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-=5D CLASSIC admirers, assemble! (6)
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