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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 04 Jul 2014 (Friday) 04:26
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EF 50mm f/1.8 II & MFA on 6D

 
GregDunn
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Jul 08, 2014 10:09 |  #16

GeoKras1989 wrote in post #17012637 (external link)
I took it outside yesterday, after re-doing the MFA and settling on +10. It is very good, outside in the sunshine, even at f/1.8, and now at any distance. I have yet to test it with this setting indoors, but it is so inconsistent in CFL lighting that I hold no hope. More later.

Fluorescent lighting in general is a problem because the color of the light changes continuously during each 60Hz (or 50 in the UK) cycle. Moreover, CFL and industrial lamps cause the AF system to focus differently. I shoot quite often under industrial fluorescents, so I have to settle on a value which gives usable behavior there. It is maddening to see the focus point shift somewhat randomly during a shoot, whereas under daylight it's pretty consistent.


Canon 1Dx | 5D3 | 7D2 | 6D | 70-200L f/2.8IS | 70-200L f/4 | 24-70L f/2.8 | 24-105L f/4IS | 100-400L f/4.5-5.6IS | 17-55 f/2.8IS | 50 f/1.8 | 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 | 4x Godox AD360

  
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Sin ­ City ­ Stan
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Jul 08, 2014 21:26 |  #17

GregDunn wrote in post #17018749 (external link)
Fluorescent lighting in general is a problem because the color of the light changes continuously during each 60Hz (or 50 in the UK) cycle. Moreover, CFL and industrial lamps cause the AF system to focus differently. I shoot quite often under industrial fluorescents, so I have to settle on a value which gives usable behavior there. It is maddening to see the focus point shift somewhat randomly during a shoot, whereas under daylight it's pretty consistent.

FYI - Anymore, most fluorescent ballasts are not magnetic but electronic and operate in the 20K Hz range. MH & HPS still operate at low Freq.. LEDs do not. A flash may overpower any stroboscopic effect you might encounter with artificial lighting..


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GeoKras1989
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Jul 08, 2014 21:33 |  #18
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What is MH & HPS. What does flourescent flash overpowering flicker have to do with focus. I'm lost.


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GeoKras1989
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Jul 09, 2014 20:44 |  #19
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I reviewed the shots I took with the NEW (the shop's copy) 50 1.8, today. Impressive IQ for $100! I just ordered a refurbished 50 1.8 direct from Canon. It was $100. The shop wanted $139.99.


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GregDunn
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Jul 10, 2014 20:28 |  #20

Sin City Stan wrote in post #17019943 (external link)
FYI - Anymore, most fluorescent ballasts are not magnetic but electronic and operate in the 20K Hz range. MH & HPS still operate at low Freq.. LEDs do not. A flash may overpower any stroboscopic effect you might encounter with artificial lighting..

Two comments:

1) In old warehouses, like the ones where I frequently shoot, there are still a lot of old inductive ballasts in use. I still have one in the fluorescent fixture in my basement; it's been running with the same tube for over 35 years.

2) Autofocus occurs prior to triggering the flash, so it doesn't matter whether the flash "overpowers" the fluorescents or not; all I have to focus with is the fluorescents. :)


Canon 1Dx | 5D3 | 7D2 | 6D | 70-200L f/2.8IS | 70-200L f/4 | 24-70L f/2.8 | 24-105L f/4IS | 100-400L f/4.5-5.6IS | 17-55 f/2.8IS | 50 f/1.8 | 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 | 4x Godox AD360

  
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Photo123abc
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Jul 11, 2014 11:13 |  #21

bjonesy77 wrote in post #17018438 (external link)
I have nothing but good things to say about my 50 1.8. It has served me well and has even held up to being dropped once. ???

My nifty-fify works fine as well, it missed AF sometimes on 1100D, but when I changed to 6D problem was gone.


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GeoKras1989
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Jul 11, 2014 19:21 |  #22
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I am hoping a new (refurbished) 50 1.8 solves my problems. It is at the FEDEX office, waiting for me to pick it up. I'll have it Monday.


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GeoKras1989
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Jul 14, 2014 23:43 |  #23
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I got the new (refurbished) lens today. This one is crap on the 60D, too. It has to be at f/4 to get anything in focus (indoors w/580EX II). OK, just keep the 60 2.8 for the crop camera. On to the 6D.... I took about 200 shots indoors this evening. This copy is not nearly as erratic as the used one I had last week.

I did notice one thing that seems odd. Info: Nighttime, incandescent light, f/1.8, 6D & 50mm f/1.8 II, ISO 400, flash on - 45 degrees - wide panel and reflector panel deployed, shutter at max sync of 1/180. In parts of the room that were brightly lit (no FA beam visible) focus was missed more often than not. When shooting the darker corners of the room (FA beam clearly visible) focus accuracy was about 90%. Is this due to the odd color of incandescent light messing up the focus?

Will test outside tomorrow, but right now I am inclined to send this lens back to Canon.


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GregDunn
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Jul 15, 2014 10:28 |  #24

I would be inclined to say yes. My 50 1.8 backfocuses about 5-6 clicks in fluorescent vs. daylight, and I'll bet that is typical for the lens.

Incidentally, the apparent inconsistency of the 50 1.8 is not entirely as some people would have it. There is an excellent article HERE (external link) which describes the AF behavior more thoroughly.


Canon 1Dx | 5D3 | 7D2 | 6D | 70-200L f/2.8IS | 70-200L f/4 | 24-70L f/2.8 | 24-105L f/4IS | 100-400L f/4.5-5.6IS | 17-55 f/2.8IS | 50 f/1.8 | 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 | 4x Godox AD360

  
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GeoKras1989
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Jul 15, 2014 11:05 |  #25
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GregDunn, thanks for the article. I decided to send the lens back to Canon. I took it outside today, It is a beautiful sunny day and this lens still struggled with AF (PD, just so you know). It hits more often in excellent light, but still has frequent misses. I shot a bunch at f/1.8 and got a lot of OOFs. I repeated with f/2.8 and got the same thing. That was the 6D. I put the lens on my 60D and it won't focus at f/1.8 at any distance. I was encouraged by the higher percentage of hits in daylight, so I took it back in the house. In a nice sun-lit living room I got well-focused and poorly focused shots, at f/1.8 and f/2.8. I was shooting in manual with 1/250 and auto ISO on the 6D. Hit rate, combining f/1.8 and f/2.8 was about 50%. I tried MFA at +10, +5, 0, -5 and -10. The hit rate didn't change. THAT is curious!

I contacted Canon and they wanted some specific-settings photos. I provided what they asked for. They sent me a UPS return label with an RMA # via e-mail. Reason for return: inconsistent AF. Canon Customer Service and Tech support have been excellent.

No 50 for me, I guess.


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GregDunn
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Jul 15, 2014 13:04 |  #26

Sorry to hear that. Apparently the issues are a result of some unfortunate choices in optical design, so if you're experiencing problems you may never get a lens which works in your situations. :( There doesn't seem to be any alternative for an inexpensive, fast 50mm, either.


Canon 1Dx | 5D3 | 7D2 | 6D | 70-200L f/2.8IS | 70-200L f/4 | 24-70L f/2.8 | 24-105L f/4IS | 100-400L f/4.5-5.6IS | 17-55 f/2.8IS | 50 f/1.8 | 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 | 4x Godox AD360

  
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GeoKras1989
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Jul 15, 2014 13:42 |  #27
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Well, you can't win 'em all! I wanted the 50 1.8 to use at 1.8 - to maybe 2.8. Beyond that, my Tammy 28-75 is just fine. I suppose I have to start over and dig up some articles about Canon and Sigma f/1.4 50s - the cheap ones. I can't afford the L or Art versions.


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GregDunn
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Jul 15, 2014 23:26 |  #28

I've been looking at fast primes myself, and there isn't a wide set of choices around 50mm. From all I've seen, the Canon f/1.4 is no better than the f/1.8 when using both at 1.8; the L is expensive, and so are all the third-party alternatives. If you want a modern autofocusing 50mm lens, hunting down a used one is probably the only way to get one cheaply.

The alternative is to see if you can deal with an 85mm (not too long on a 6D), of which there are some good choices.


Canon 1Dx | 5D3 | 7D2 | 6D | 70-200L f/2.8IS | 70-200L f/4 | 24-70L f/2.8 | 24-105L f/4IS | 100-400L f/4.5-5.6IS | 17-55 f/2.8IS | 50 f/1.8 | 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 | 4x Godox AD360

  
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bk2life
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Jul 15, 2014 23:52 |  #29

my fifty does the same thing, but i have learned to turn the focusing ring by hand, seems to work everytime!


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GeoKras1989
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Jul 16, 2014 07:44 |  #30
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bk2life wrote in post #17034934 (external link)
my fifty does the same thing, but i have learned to turn the focusing ring by hand, seems to work everytime!

I did give that a try, briefly. I don't see well enough for that anymore. Live view with CDAF seemed to work better. That is just a hassle I wasn't willing to endure. I don't use LV for anything else. Currently checking reviews of the older Sigma 50 1.4.


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EF 50mm f/1.8 II & MFA on 6D
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