FoxTrot wrote in post #17083250
I was under the impression that you should have IS off when using a tripod anyways, as the IS system can actually interfere and cause bad images under such circumstances.
IS can be left on when using a tripod with a "loose" head... with the panning and tilt not locked down, allowing you to track with moving subjects such as wildlife.... such as the gimbal mounts often used with wildlife. Similar can be done with other types of tripod heads, though the gimbal is the smoothest with a large lens.
Plus, it depends upon the lens.... the 300/4 IS happens to be one of those with the simpler IS that should be turned off manually if the lens is locked down solidly on a tripod, otherwise IS can go into sort of a feedback loop where it creates movement rather than correcting it. Others IS lenses of this type I know for certain include the 24-105L, 100-400L and 28-135.
But many other Canon lenses use a more sophisticated form of IS that will "self-detect" lack of movement and automatically turn off, such as when fully locked down on a tripod. For certain these include all Canon 70-200 with IS, as well as all versions of 300/2.8, 400/2.8, 500/4 and 600/4. It's pretty safe to assume the 200/2, 400/4 DO, 800/5.6 and 200-400/4L 1.4X also use this type of IS. I bet the 100L Macro will, too, since a macro lens is very often used on a tripod.
Other IS lenses... who knows!? Just watch for it in the viewfinder. You can see when the problem occurs and turn the IS off then. It won't harm camera or lens if it occurs. Just can cause blurred images.
I agree with some other suggestions... you might consider a monopod instead of a tripod. A monopod can double as a walking stick when hiking. In fact there are some actual walking sticks that have a camera mounting screw on top. If the lens were IS, I would leave it on when used on a monopod. But since it's not, they'll still need to keep shutter speeds reasonable, but a monopod can be a big help if somewhat slower shutter speeds are necessary.
A monopod can be the difference, allowing for slower shutter speeds. These were shot at about 1/160 or 1/200 if memory serves, 300mm lens with a 1.5X teleconverter (no stabilization), on a monopod...
This was shot with Canon EF 300/4L IS and 1.4X teleconverter, 1/250 shutter speed (EOS 5D Mark II, ISO 1600, f8), on a monopod
, with IS on
Above examples are all "full frame". Using 300mm and effective 420mm on a crop sensor camera such as the T2i will be a bit more challenging.
Teach the folks who will be using your gear to watch those shutter speeds and a little about ISO. Should be no problem using ISO 1600 with that camera. If they were to shoot RAW + JPEG, should be able to use as high as ISO 3200 with a T2i.... applying a little noise reduction to the RAW conversion later. (Note: If they use the point-n-shoot style Scene modes on the T2i, RAW won't be possible. Those also prevent making other settings... varies depending upon which Scene mode is used.)
I don't have any problem recommending using some of the auto exposure modes: Av, Tv or P. I would never use "auto ISO" (if T2i has it), in combination with
the other auto exposure modes. Too hard to say what would happen with an auto-auto setup like that.