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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Critique Corner 
Thread started 21 Aug 2014 (Thursday) 11:19
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WB is NOT my friend

 
MadyGuzzz
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Aug 21, 2014 11:19 |  #1

Why do these photos not look bright like they are suppose to! Their faces look so yellowy! How do I fix these and how do I prevent this from happening again? I used a Canon Speedlite 430 EX II with a Gary Fong lightsphere

1/125 f/2.5 50mm

IMAGE: http://i59.tinypic.com/2jb9tza.jpg

1/250 f/2.5 50mm
IMAGE: http://i59.tinypic.com/igxfmx.jpg



  
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joedlh
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Aug 21, 2014 11:36 |  #2

This is the kind of cast that you would see with tungsten lighting and white balance set to something else. In the old days, it would be with daylight film shooting indoors with incandescent lights. Fluorescent lights have problems too. When I get a cast like this, I use a white balancing tool on post processing. Place the eyedropper over something that's supposed to be a neutral gray and click. That usually does it. However, I have the sense that I'm not as much a stickler for white balancing as others. But these I would fix. I sampled the man's shirt collar for this, although there seems to still be a little bit of cast.


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Editing ok

  
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Micro5797
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Aug 21, 2014 11:58 |  #3

[QUOTE=MadyGuzzz;17109​557]Why do these photos not look bright like they are suppose to! Their faces look so yellowy! How do I fix these and how do I prevent this from happening again? I used a Canon Speedlite 430 EX II with a Gary Fong lightsphere

1/125 f/2.5 50mm

joedlh tells you how to fix it, here is how to prevent it.

If WB is a constant issue for you. I would get a cheap 80% grey card ($10). Take a picture of this before hand and either custom wb in camera to use the image of the grey card or at least you will have it for PP work to get it set again. Some people say that you can get by with using a sheet of white typing paper. I have yet to try it as i have a grey card.

I learned from my own work, that after sitting in front of a monitor and doing PP. My eyes can be tricked after a while. I always would later go back and recheck my wb and see that it was off. Then i went to a wb card and saved my self a lot of head ache.


From what i have seen, plastic diffusers such as Gary Fong or Sto-fen (plastic cap that fits on head of speed light) Are warmer and a little more yellow than a bare bulb flash. This is why i don't just set my WB to flash. I shoot the WB grey card, as you are not only getting the color from the plastic head, but also picking up light from walls and ceiling as it bounces around the room.

Keep in mind that there is more than just color temp involved, but also the green and magenta tint. Shooting the WB card will also get this more accurate.

EDIT.
Monitor calibration will also affect how you see this compared to others screens. Since you are seeing this as yellow, as i am. I assume that you are at least fairly close. Xrite and Spyder make monitor calibrators. A cheap get me closer idea is to use a pre existing icc profile that fits your monitor for those of us with cheaper monitors.Though not the best solution, it may get you closer.
http://www.tftcentral.​co.uk …cc_profiles.htm​#calibrate (external link)


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reefvilla
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Aug 21, 2014 15:06 as a reply to  @ Micro5797's post |  #4

When you are taking the photo's and look through the camera or live view, does the lighting look like these pics look? I would think you would be able to see this before you snap the pic.

Do you have a UV filter on the lens? Maybe take it off and try that?


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HappySnapper90
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Aug 23, 2014 08:34 |  #5

reefvilla wrote in post #17109940 (external link)
When you are taking the photo's and look through the camera or live view, does the lighting look like these pics look? I would think you would be able to see this before you snap the pic.

Did you read the post? The OP used an external flash with light sphere so a live view preview would be worthless !




  
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bob_r
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Aug 23, 2014 08:47 |  #6

joedlh wrote in post #17109592 (external link)
I sampled the man's shirt collar for this, although there seems to still be a little bit of cast.

Here's the color I got when sampling the man's white shirt in ACR. Your edit does have a cast.
For the second image, I sampled the background which I believe is supposed to be white.


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Macro ­ girl
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Aug 24, 2014 02:33 |  #7

I would think it's white balance related. Just for thought, she is wearing a bright yellow dress, so I would think you are also getting some reflective color coming from that?? Just my two cents worth.


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vk2gwk
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Aug 24, 2014 06:14 |  #8

Shoot RAW - that makes it easier to correct the WB. Watch out for coloured ceilings and walls when using bounce flash. That may seriously change your image colours.
Use "neutral" when shooting RAW and correct afterwards. When you have a shoot in fixed location make a custom white balance setting - shooting a grey card in the available light.


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MadyGuzzz
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Aug 25, 2014 09:34 |  #9

vk2gwk wrote in post #17114337 (external link)
Shoot RAW - that makes it easier to correct the WB. Watch out for coloured ceilings and walls when using bounce flash. That may seriously change your image colours.
Use "neutral" when shooting RAW and correct afterwards. When you have a shoot in fixed location make a custom white balance setting - shooting a grey card in the available light.

Thank you. I do shoot raw, just have to work on correcting WB.




  
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Madwrench
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Aug 25, 2014 21:15 as a reply to  @ MadyGuzzz's post |  #10

I think your main question has been pretty much been answered, but I would add that your lighting setup isn't helping.

I won't get into the whole pro/anti Fong issue, but the specular highlights and shadows in your shots are telling you to rethink your setup.




  
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Aug 25, 2014 21:54 as a reply to  @ Madwrench's post |  #11

Now, these are the sorts of discussions I used to get involved in. Then I discovered gels and asked why they weren't talked about more only to be told they are mentioned all the time in the 'lighting' section.

Point being it looks to me like you have some non-sun lighting and then you are using flash as a fill. So you need to match the flash temp with the ambient light.

Hence gels. Works miracles.


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bob_r
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Aug 26, 2014 00:14 |  #12

ejenner wrote in post #17117799 (external link)
Point being it looks to me like you have some non-sun lighting and then you are using flash as a fill. So you need to match the flash temp with the ambient light.

Where are you seeing "non-sun" lighting other than flash? At those shutter speeds, ambient light won't play much of a part, if any, in the lighting. His light source is the flash.


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ejenner
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Aug 26, 2014 23:28 |  #13

bob_r wrote in post #17117978 (external link)
Where are you seeing "non-sun" lighting other than flash? At those shutter speeds, ambient light won't play much of a part, if any, in the lighting. His light source is the flash.

Well, I'm definitely no portrait expert. I figured that 1/125 f2.5 might let in some ambient depending on the ISO. But I see the second is 1/250, that does seem high for ambient unless the ISO is insane.

So then I would ask the question of how there can be a problem at all. If all the light is flash, then you know the WB. It's the easiest WB in the world to set and auto WB should even get it spot on since it knows the light is from the flash.

Of course if some is bounced and the wall/ceiling is not white, that could be an issue. I guess I'm not used to getting so little shadow with a wall so close behind the subject with a flash-only light.

Or maybe the lightsphere?


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bob_r
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Aug 28, 2014 19:27 |  #14

ejenner wrote in post #17120070 (external link)
So then I would ask the question of how there can be a problem at all. If all the light is flash, then you know the WB. It's the easiest WB in the world to set and auto WB should even get it spot on since it knows the light is from the flash.

Of course if some is bounced and the wall/ceiling is not white, that could be an issue. I guess I'm not used to getting so little shadow with a wall so close behind the subject with a flash-only light.

Or maybe the lightsphere?

I agree that it's difficult to come up with a reason why the WB is off in these shots and the OP doesn't seem to want to furnish any insight. Like you, I think the problem may be the lightsphere bouncing light off different colored surfaces.


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ChuckingFluff
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Sep 02, 2014 14:09 |  #15

Lose the fongdong and start reading the link below. I can guarantee you it's the fongdong, I used the collapsible one when I got lazy and I can't even look at those photos today. They have horrible yellow flat lighting much like yours.

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com/2006/03/lightin​g-101.html (external link)




  
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