24mm 1.4 is it as nice as the sigma art 35mm 1.4?

AlanU wrote in post #17146107
.....buy'em all

This.

And thats what my wife thinks I'm doing.

so basically buy both the 24mm and the 24-70 ii

hmmmmm, that might just work if i can raise the funds

is it true that there might be a Sigma 24mm ?

I hear is a Sigma 24 is coming soon so you may want to wait and see.

I love the 24LII but it works best as a lens to pair with something else. Its not as versatile as a 35 or 50. Still I love shooting with it and somehow its usually my most used lens even though its sort of a speciality lens.

I would suggest looking for a used one. I see them all the time for around $1200 or so.

Talley wrote in post #17146047
I don't want to tinker with stuff. I just want to find the minimal kit that meets my ever changing needs lol.

well, when I say tinker, I mean finding gear that fits your ever changing needs

It's pretty refreshing to find small high quality lenses and STILL have that FF image quality/bokeh/noise control.

Imagine a kit only a little bit bigger/heavier than an EOS-M, with very similar IQ to what you're use to right now. it exists

Charlie wrote in post #17146174
well, when I say tinker, I mean finding gear that fits your ever changing needs

It's pretty refreshing to find small high quality lenses and STILL have that FF image quality/bokeh/noise control.

Imagine a kit only a little bit bigger/heavier than an EOS-M, with very similar IQ to what you're use to right now. it exists

I've been interested in the Fuji stuff but the reality is the photos that are important to me is vacationing stuff, dance recitals, choir concerts. I also find myself in a lot of low light situations where flash is not an option. Example: My kids birthday party at a place that does go cart, bumpers, games, laser tag, and mini putt putt. The sig 35 was my only option as I needed 1.4 and I needed some shutter ~320ish and my ISo was still 8000-12800. It's not great images but it captured those moments for me. Bounce was out since the walls were all purple and dark green and such and the ceiling was black colored insulation.

I'm gonna try out this rogue flash bender and play around with it to see if that will help me out.

But this is why I want to add a 24L... it's low light capability and it's wider than 35.

For party's I mainly used the Sigma 15 2.8 Fisheye (in past the Canon 15 2.8 fisheye)
Yes I would sell those f4 lenses.

AlanU wrote in post #17146107
Its always fun to disagree and agree

I really do enjoy shooting wide primes wideopen. Longer focal lengths you can easily blow the background to cream and not get the story of the environment. On the other hand sometimes you "want" to force the eyes only on the subject.

Here are 2 examples of the 24L II wide open. For reference. Full exif by clicking it.

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/nyJE​iH

IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/nfxB​Ry

Talley wrote in post #17146317
I've been interested in the Fuji stuff but the reality is the photos that are important to me is vacationing stuff, dance recitals, choir concerts. I also find myself in a lot of low light situations where flash is not an option. Example: My kids birthday party at a place that does go cart, bumpers, games, laser tag, and mini putt putt. The sig 35 was my only option as I needed 1.4 and I needed some shutter ~320ish and my ISo was still 8000-12800. It's not great images but it captured those moments for me. Bounce was out since the walls were all purple and dark green and such and the ceiling was black colored insulation.

I'm gonna try out this rogue flash bender and play around with it to see if that will help me out.

But this is why I want to add a 24L... it's low light capability and it's wider than 35.

I use the joe demb flipit for a bounce card. My most favourite ultra versatile modifier is the spinlight 360. The 360 has no limiations of where you want to bounce light regardless of what flash your using.

You may find the rogue to be a tad heavier making the flash head top heavy.

If you have a large index card (straight towards subject not bouncing over shoulder or side walls) you will be able to achieve proper white balance without contaminating the light with color cast.

Most cases I do not have issues bouncing light in large gymnasiums as long as I'm 30-60feet away with a wide angle. HIgh iso and a spit of fill flash works fantastic. This is using a f/2.8 zoom (24-70, 16-35) too

My 24L arrives Monday. I'll throw up some comparisons for ya.

Talley wrote in post #17151105
My 24L arrives Monday. I'll throw up some comparisons for ya.

Totally different lens even though the diff between 35mm and 24mm isn't large.

At least 24mm will give you the option of cropping minimally to "almost" replicate the fl of a 35mm and possibly similar perspective.

When I look at some photo's I've taken at events I feel the 35mm just misses the environmental background missing some emotions of "guests" at the ceremony. 24mm is wider and captures the moment and if it doesn't work I'll do a minor crop.

AlanU wrote in post #17152080
Totally different lens even though the diff between 35mm and 24mm isn't large.

At least 24mm will give you the option of cropping minimally to "almost" replicate the fl of a 35mm and possibly similar perspective.

When I look at some photo's I've taken at events I feel the 35mm just misses the environmental background missing some emotions of "guests" at the ceremony. 24mm is wider and captures the moment and if it doesn't work I'll do a minor crop.

Well I have been walking around w/ the 14-105 and trying out specifically 24/35/50/85 and I really see a need for all