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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Sports Talk 
Thread started 10 Sep 2014 (Wednesday) 21:05
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What else can I do.....high school football

 
Imsouthernfried
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Sep 10, 2014 21:05 |  #1

Right now Im taking photos for our local high school, not getting paid, just doing volunteer work, and it gets me access to all athletic events so I can practice. I like doing it and the kids love it on facebook. Right now, my equipment is a 550d, 70-200 L f.8, and 2x tc, and a 50mm 1.8. I know night time is horrible and I dont see how they see the ball sometimes. Can yall take a look at some of my photos, and is there anything else I can do to keep the iso down, and speed up? I hate blur. The only software Im using is dpp. Here is a link to my flckr account : https://www.flickr.com​/photos/51526542@N02/s​ets (external link)

Im thinking of trying to save up for a 6d just for its low light ability. Im not really concerned about fps, I know most guys around me, sound like their at full auto, and Im just click........click....​.......but, it is teaching me a great deal about timing, lighting, etc. Any advice at all is appreciated. Thanks-Randy Dixon




  
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pat.kane
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Sep 10, 2014 22:24 |  #2

Randy, I don't see any EXIF data on the images, so I can't provide any advice on adjusting settings. I looked at a couple of galleries and it looks like you're already doing a good job managing shutter speed and image noise. Outside buying a different body (I don't think I'd recommend the 6D for sports though), my only suggestion would be to add flash.

A few other comments, though you didn't necessarily solicit the input:

1) shoot from a kneeling position if you can for a better perspective

2) don't shoot backs; in general once the play passes you by, stop shooting

3) wait for the action to come to you; with a 70-200mm shooting action on the far sideline is a waste of time

4) stop shooting for free; not only are you putting a lot of miles on your camera, equipment upgrades are expensive and there's no reason the parents can't toss a few dollars your way to help defray the cost. If you're apprehensive about doing this, make it a fundraiser for the boosters. It's hard to charge after they're used to getting it for free.

Good luck. Shooting sports is challenging and exciting at the same time.


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Imsouthernfried
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Sep 11, 2014 05:03 |  #3

pat.kane wrote in post #17147160 (external link)
Randy, I don't see any EXIF data on the images, so I can't provide any advice on adjusting settings. I looked at a couple of galleries and it looks like you're already doing a good job managing shutter speed and image noise. Outside buying a different body (I don't think I'd recommend the 6D for sports though), my only suggestion would be to add flash. I don't understand why the EXIF data isn't showing, when I click on the photo, I see it? Do I have a flickr setting wrong? I also don't think they are allowed flash on the sidelines, one old photographer, (love hanging with the guy, he is over 80, said we couldn't)

A few other comments, though you didn't necessarily solicit the input:

1) shoot from a kneeling position if you can for a better perspectiveI've tried that, and was afraid I couldn't get up and move fast enough lol

2) don't shoot backs; in general once the play passes you by, stop shooting

3) wait for the action to come to you; with a 70-200mm shooting action on the far sideline is a waste of timeI agree, but, I hate to lose the moment for the parent or coaches, but I understand what your saying, never thought about that, thanks!

4) stop shooting for free; not only are you putting a lot of miles on your camera, equipment upgrades are expensive and there's no reason the parents can't toss a few dollars your way to help defray the cost. If you're apprehensive about doing this, make it a fundraiser for the boosters. It's hard to charge after they're used to getting it for free.

Good luck. Shooting sports is challenging and exciting at the same time.

Yea one day I may start charging, but for now, I don't think I'm good enough to charge, plus its my way of helping out the school. We are a small town and it just would "feel right"...now if I was doing it for just one parent and their little johnny, it would feel right lol




  
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DC ­ Fan
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Sep 11, 2014 09:47 |  #4

Imsouthernfried wrote in post #17147025 (external link)
Right now Im taking photos for our local high school, not getting paid, just doing volunteer work, and it gets me access to all athletic events so I can practice. I like doing it and the kids love it on facebook. Right now, my equipment is a 550d, 70-200 L f.8, and 2x tc, and a 50mm 1.8. I know night time is horrible and I dont see how they see the ball sometimes. Can yall take a look at some of my photos, and is there anything else I can do to keep the iso down, and speed up? I hate blur. The only software Im using is dpp. Here is a link to my flckr account : https://www.flickr.com​/photos/51526542@N02/s​ets (external link)

Im thinking of trying to save up for a 6d just for its low light ability. Im not really concerned about fps, I know most guys around me, sound like their at full auto, and Im just click........click....​.......but, it is teaching me a great deal about timing, lighting, etc. Any advice at all is appreciated. Thanks-Randy Dixon


The images at your Flickr link are so heavily processed that it's hard to detect your intent.

Fortunately, a 70-200mm f/2.8 lens is a good unit for night sports photography if a camera is properly prepared. Football examples:

PHOTOBUCKET EMBEDDING IS DISABLED BY THIS MEMBER.
Photobucket sends ads instead of embedding photos from their free galleries.
Click the link (if available) below to see the image in a gallery page.

http://i1174.photobuck​et.com …09bba0043_zpsa9​2b3f3e.jpg (external link)


Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-200mm
Image Date: 2012-11-09 19:11:36 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 200.0mm
Aperture: f/3.2
Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
ISO equiv: 6400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB


PHOTOBUCKET EMBEDDING IS DISABLED BY THIS MEMBER.
Photobucket sends ads instead of embedding photos from their free galleries.
Click the link (if available) below to see the image in a gallery page.

http://i1174.photobuck​et.com …09bba0089_zps5d​7ede5a.jpg (external link)


Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-200mm
Image Date: 2012-11-09 19:25:22 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 165.0mm
Aperture: f/3.5
Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
ISO equiv: 6400
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB


To get a useful action-stopping shutter speed, expect to use a very high ISO such as 6400. A very high ISO is an absolute necessity. These sample images use noise reduction software (external link) which makes high ISO imaging extremely usable.

The best way to achieve correct exposure setting is through an incident reading using a light meter. Also expect to need a custom white balance.



  
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Imsouthernfried
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Sep 11, 2014 10:03 as a reply to  @ DC Fan's post |  #5

Thanks DC, about the only processing that I do is first I use the dpp software and use the batch process and click on the "high tone curve" which so far has been the easiest way to make the photos brighter. Which is really the only intent I have. I've shied away from using higher ISO due to all the noise when I get above 1600. Then I just confer them all to JPEG so they can go on Facebook. Course to save time I sometimes take the photo in JPEG so I don't have to convert. Now can I load raw on flickr?




  
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bubbygator
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Sep 11, 2014 10:25 |  #6

I can give a +1 on that noise reduction software. I do all my editing in a single folder, then batch-process that folder through Noiseware.

It looks like you need to do more deletions before you "publish" - nobody's interested in person's backs, even if the image is high quality. On the other hand, you do capture a lot of interesting action shots, with faces and the ball. After you do your noise reduction, you might go back and re-consider some shots for cropping to show a larger presentation of facial expressions.

Don't we all wish we could afford a 200/1.8 !! <link>


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Imsouthernfried
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Sep 11, 2014 10:58 |  #7

bubbygator wrote in post #17147973 (external link)
I can give a +1 on that noise reduction software. I do all my editing in a single folder, then batch-process that folder through Noiseware.

It looks like you need to do more deletions before you "publish" - nobody's interested in person's backs, even if the image is high quality. On the other hand, you do capture a lot of interesting action shots, with faces and the ball. After you do your noise reduction, you might go back and re-consider some shots for cropping to show a larger presentation of facial expressions.

Don't we all wish we could afford a 200/1.8 !! <link>

Thanks Bubby, I understand what your saying about the photos of backs and all. I guess I need to explain why I show those as well. This all started with me taking photos at games and stuff my son was in. It has now progressed where the parents dont care if I only got a shot of their little johnnys back, they tag and download them all lol. Also, I cant out run the player lol and the coaches look at my photos to see what players are doing what, during a play. It is funny you mention showing the backs, cause sometimes in the photos, it will show the coaches a block in the back, or a hold. Ive even had players come off the field and ask me, "you didnt get that did you" lol. Like I said, right now Im learning as much as possible for the future when my son is done with high school so I appreciate any info and critiques I get. Trust me, if it was up to me, downloading a 1000 photos, is not what I would do, but, it does help the coaches, there is only so much they see in film.

I didnt think much about investing in noise software, didnt think I would gain much with it, since I just had a 550d, but, if it will help that much, I will do it. Again, thanks again to all of you for the help.




  
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joeblack2022
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Sep 11, 2014 11:13 |  #8

Imsouthernfried wrote in post #17147025 (external link)
Im thinking of trying to save up for a 6d just for its low light ability. Im not really concerned about fps, I know most guys around me, sound like their at full auto, and Im just click........click....​.......but, it is teaching me a great deal about timing, lighting, etc. Any advice at all is appreciated. Thanks-Randy Dixon

pat.kane wrote in post #17147160 (external link)
(I don't think I'd recommend the 6D for sports though)

In the right hands the 6D can do the job (there's night time stuff in the thread as well).

https://photography-on-the.net …?p=17142264&pos​tcount=405

Even his 50D stuff is legendary!


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Imsouthernfried
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Sep 11, 2014 11:42 |  #9

joeblack2022 wrote in post #17148043 (external link)
In the right hands the 6D can do the job (there's night time stuff in the thread as well).

https://photography-on-the.net …?p=17142264&pos​tcount=405

Even his 50D stuff is legendary!


See my thought process on thinking about the 6D, the low light has to be miles ahead of my 550d, and the auto focus and focus points, cant be that much worse than my 550d. I figured if I'm not used to some advantage the 6D doesn't have compared to a 5dm3 or any other multiple focus point, fast auto focus system. I really haven't lost any thing, but gained better ISO capability. Or have totally outthunked myself lol




  
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jra
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Sep 11, 2014 12:09 |  #10

For what it's worth, I would suggest that cull your images better. Many of your images are just of people standing around or sitting with no clear focal point, action or subject......I would suggest just deleting those or at least not posting them. Only post your good to great photos....leave the boring ones out. That's just my opinion ;)




  
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Sep 11, 2014 13:02 as a reply to  @ jra's post |  #11

Noiseware has a demo pic on it's website that shows what it does <link (external link)> - I do think your pics would benefit.


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The avatar is my middle grandson. (the TF can't tell the difference, but the fish is frowning and the kid is grinning)
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Imsouthernfried
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Sep 11, 2014 13:16 |  #12

bubbygator wrote in post #17148278 (external link)
Noiseware has a demo pic on it's website that shows what it does <link (external link)> - I do think your pics would benefit.


I just saw that, now do I have to buy photoshop as well, or does the 79.99 get me what I need. This is all kinda new to me. Thanks again.




  
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bubbygator
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Sep 11, 2014 13:31 |  #13

No. When Noiseware comes up on your PC, it asks you to specify a file or a folder to run. Just walk through it's 3 steps, and it goes to work - very simple.

I use free FastStone Image viewer for my amateur editing - it has a tab to link to other software available on yout PC. But I used it all by itself when I first got it.


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The avatar is my middle grandson. (the TF can't tell the difference, but the fish is frowning and the kid is grinning)
Sarasota, sunlight, butterflies, fish, Gators, and Seminoles

  
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clarence
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Sep 13, 2014 12:54 |  #14

Imsouthernfried wrote in post #17147025 (external link)
Can yall take a look at some of my photos, and is there anything else I can do

Here is a link to my flckr account : https://www.flickr.com​/photos/51526542@N02/s​ets (external link)

Instead of dumping your entire CF card with 600+ pictures onto flickr, go through and delete all of the OOF and backs. You'll probably end up with well under 100, but it will help you learn what makes a better image, which will in turn help you take better images.

Plus, no one wants to click through 600+ pictures, especially in galleries with low signal to noise.

When seeking feedback here, pick your best images (<8) and embed the images here.

For example, these are your shots that I consider "keepers"...

Imsouthernfried wrote in post #17147025 (external link)
Imsouthernfried #1:
QUOTED IMAGE

Imsouthernfried #2:
QUOTED IMAGE

Imsouthernfried #3:
QUOTED IMAGE

Imsouthernfried #4:
QUOTED IMAGE

Eyes. Ball. Shoot tight; crop tighter. Level horizons.


For Sale: 1D, T1i, 800mm, 600mm

5D3, 1D4, 7D, 600/4L, 200/1.8L, Sigmonster 300-800mm, 80-200/2.8L MDP, 28-70/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.4, 12-24mm, (4) 550EXs, (4) WL strobes, PW MiniTT1/FlexTT5s/AC3/A​C9s
LoCo-Photo.com (external link)

  
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clarence
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Sep 13, 2014 12:55 |  #15

jra wrote in post #17148170 (external link)
For what it's worth, I would suggest that cull your images better. Many of your images are just of people standing around or sitting with no clear focal point, action or subject......I would suggest just deleting those or at least not posting them. Only post your good to great photos....leave the boring ones out. That's just my opinion ;)

I agree.


For Sale: 1D, T1i, 800mm, 600mm

5D3, 1D4, 7D, 600/4L, 200/1.8L, Sigmonster 300-800mm, 80-200/2.8L MDP, 28-70/2.8L, 85/1.8, 50/1.4, 12-24mm, (4) 550EXs, (4) WL strobes, PW MiniTT1/FlexTT5s/AC3/A​C9s
LoCo-Photo.com (external link)

  
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What else can I do.....high school football
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