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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Sports Talk 
Thread started 17 Sep 2014 (Wednesday) 11:09
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Couple Questions - Shooting Football

 
scrappycharmer
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Sep 17, 2014 11:09 |  #1

Hi! I am new (so please be nice) if this has been asked a hundred times...my apologies. I have been shooting football for a few years now. My big struggle is a few things.

First - how do you all handle shooting from the visitor side when it's in the worst sun? Lots of moms want shots from the cheer half time but they are brutal.

Second - what are the best settings for under the lights. I tend to get decent color and focus most of the time but still lots of blurry pics. I want tack sharp!! I see some amazing pics and just wondering if there is some settings I am missing. I usually shoot wide open with a 70-200mm and a shutter of 1/1000. I just got a 5D3 so I can now do the high ISO but trying to stay away from too high so I don't get noise. I know many sports photographers use the 400mm lens - not in the budget yet!

Third - shooting at just before sunrise - I usually up the ISO and up the f-stop to 4 or 5.6...good? not good?

Thanks in advance for any advice, etc.




  
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DC ­ Fan
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Sep 17, 2014 11:48 |  #2

scrappycharmer wrote in post #17160977 (external link)
Hi! I am new (so please be nice) if this has been asked a hundred times...my apologies. I have been shooting football for a few years now. My big struggle is a few things.

First - how do you all handle shooting from the visitor side when it's in the worst sun? Lots of moms want shots from the cheer half time but they are brutal.

Second - what are the best settings for under the lights. I tend to get decent color and focus most of the time but still lots of blurry pics. I want tack sharp!! I see some amazing pics and just wondering if there is some settings I am missing. I usually shoot wide open with a 70-200mm and a shutter of 1/1000. I just got a 5D3 so I can now do the high ISO but trying to stay away from too high so I don't get noise. I know many sports photographers use the 400mm lens - not in the budget yet!

Third - shooting at just before sunrise - I usually up the ISO and up the f-stop to 4 or 5.6...good? not good?

Thanks in advance for any advice, etc.

Night exposure settings always depend on lighting. Get a light meter and take an incident reading. Example:

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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 60D
Lens: 70-200mm
Image Date: 2011-11-18 20:05:13 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 76.0mm
Aperture: f/4.0
Exposure Time: 0.0020 s (1/500)
ISO equiv: 4000
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

This example came from a well-illuminated college field. Other places will not have lighting of this intensity.

It's a sign of control over your situation to use a meter reading to acquire exposure settings. Incident metering is the most accurate method in these circumstances.


Shooting into the sun can be a matter of luck. For whatever reason this backlit situation worked halfway decently without trying.

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Camera Maker: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS REBEL T2i
Lens: EF70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM
Image Date: 2010-09-25 15:42:20 (no TZ)
Focal Length: 300.0mm
Aperture: f/6.3
Exposure Time: 0.0010 s (1/1000)
ISO equiv: 500
Exposure Bias: none
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: shutter priority (semi-auto)
White Balance: Auto
Flash Fired: No (enforced)
Orientation: Normal
Color Space: sRGB

The camera also was set for Auto ISO. Perhaps that made a difference



  
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John
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Sep 17, 2014 12:16 |  #3

FWIW (disclaimer), I just shot my third college football game on Saturday so I'm not an expert by any means.

scrappycharmer wrote in post #17160977 (external link)
First - how do you all handle shooting from the visitor side when it's in the worst sun? Lots of moms want shots from the cheer half time but they are brutal.

When you say brutal... are you talking about the exposure (the players are backlit) or are you talking about your comfort level in the (brutal) heat?

scrappycharmer wrote in post #17160977 (external link)
Second - what are the best settings for under the lights. I tend to get decent color and focus most of the time but still lots of blurry pics. I want tack sharp!! I see some amazing pics and just wondering if there is some settings I am missing. I usually shoot wide open with a 70-200mm and a shutter of 1/1000. I just got a 5D3 so I can now do the high ISO but trying to stay away from too high so I don't get noise. I know many sports photographers use the 400mm lens - not in the budget yet!

For color, you may just want to take a white balance test shot. Just put a white balance card on the field and use that to white balance in post.

If you are getting motion blur, you just need to up you shutter speed. I read somewhere that for college, I'll want to shoot at at least 1/1000th of a second and it hasn't let me down so far.

scrappycharmer wrote in post #17160977 (external link)
Third - shooting at just before sunrise - I usually up the ISO and up the f-stop to 4 or 5.6...good? not good?

Before sunrise? Okay so maybe you're talking about football football instead of American football? :)

You want lowest f-stop (widest aperture) unless you are taking a group shot or something and need that depth of field.

Personally, when I shoot sports, I want to separate out the "action" player so only that player is in sharp focus so I like shooting wide as possible.


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scrappycharmer
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Hatchling
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Sep 17, 2014 12:29 |  #4

John wrote in post #17161150 (external link)
When you say brutal... are you talking about the exposure (the players are backlit) or are you talking about your comfort level in the (brutal) heat?

Before sunrise? Okay so maybe you're talking about football football instead of American football? :)

brutal I mean sun straight over head...and I'm looking into it. this is mainly for cheerleaders during half time. I am shooting HS football on friday nights. When the visiting side does their half time routine it's ALL sun!

And I meant Sunset...like i said HS football on Friday nights. JV is usually just before sunset.

thanks for your advice. I am not too far off the mark. gonna try auto ISO too and see how that works.




  
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Palladium
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Sep 17, 2014 12:33 as a reply to  @ scrappycharmer's post |  #5

scrappy -whats your gear?

Low light action photography is easier with better gear ;)




  
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scrappycharmer
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Hatchling
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Sep 17, 2014 23:22 |  #6

Palladium wrote in post #17161195 (external link)
scrappy -whats your gear?

Low light action photography is easier with better gear ;)

5D3 and tamron 70-300mm f2.8 I am not shooting with flash.




  
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seaninsa
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Sep 18, 2014 00:07 |  #7

scrappycharmer wrote in post #17162310 (external link)
5D3 and tamron 70-300mm f2.8 I am not shooting with flash.

The 5DM3 is not a sports camera. It is way to slow. I shoot with a 1DX and 1DMIV. Also your lens is not a 2.8 if it is a 70-300. Did you mean the 70-200? Check out my pics here at:

http://www.seansydnorp​hotography.com/f104946​0996 (external link)

Send me a PM if you questions. I also am on my knees the whole game. You also have to face the reality that if you are backlight you are not going to get the best of pics shooting the half time show.




  
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scrappycharmer
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Hatchling
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Sep 18, 2014 00:59 |  #8

Yes, typo - 70-200 is the lens i have.




  
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camarillo
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Sep 19, 2014 19:30 |  #9

"The 5DM3 is not a sports camera"

too funny; your camera is great for sports

too slow; that's funny too


Whittier, Ca

  
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seaninsa
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Sep 20, 2014 01:09 |  #10

camarillo wrote in post #17166164 (external link)
"The 5DM3 is not a sports camera"

too funny; your camera is great for sports

too slow; that's funny too

That is to funny? Well that is my opinion. I tried using the 5DM3 for football. I would miss shoots because it was to slow compared to the 1DM4 and now that I have a 1DX I can't even compared.

The 5DM3 shoots 6fps and if below 50% battery it drops to what 3FPS. I like my 7d better than the 5D for sports but the 7d could not give me a high enough ISO.




  
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Plumtreelad
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Sep 20, 2014 02:03 |  #11

I normally use 7D and 1D MK IV for sports but on occasions when light is very poor I have used 5D MK III instead of 7D and got good results. Admittedly the fps does slightly reduce the ability to get the money shot but do not fear using high ISO. The noise is still very acceptable at 6400 and can be worked on in post production


5D Mk III|7D |1DmkIV |10 -22 |24 -105 F4 IS L | 35 F2 IS | 70-200 F2.8 IS II L | 85 1.8 | 300 F2.8 IS MK II L|1.4 Extender MK III |
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AB8ND
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Sep 20, 2014 07:09 |  #12

Problem I always had with the visitor side, the chain gang is always at the line of scrimmage, same place I wanted/needed to be. Ill go with the other comment, get and use an incident meter. For color, try an expodisc, it can also be used as an incident meter. Not sure how anyone can say that any model Canon DSLR is to slow for football, yes a 1D would be the ultimate, but it ain't necessary in most cases.




  
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seaninsa
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Sep 20, 2014 10:56 |  #13

Plumtreelad wrote in post #17166673 (external link)
I normally use 7D and 1D MK IV for sports but on occasions when light is very poor I have used 5D MK III instead of 7D and got good results. Admittedly the fps does slightly reduce the ability to get the money shot but do not fear using high ISO. The noise is still very acceptable at 6400 and can be worked on in post production

I got a 1DX and now I get the money shots. The ISO capability on that camera is insane and how fast it shoots is amazing even in RAW.




  
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Plumtreelad
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Sep 22, 2014 13:38 |  #14

seaninsa wrote in post #17167140 (external link)
I got a 1DX and now I get the money shots. The ISO capability on that camera is insane and how fast it shoots is amazing even in RAW.

If we could all afford the 1DX we might all have the same satisfaction when shooting high ISO. But £5,000 is just beyond most people's reach and so we have to look for alternatives. The 5D MK 111 is now below £2,000 and will cope with high ISO without unduly high noise. I realise that it is not an ideal sports camera but "needs must".

So, going back to where the OP started, he has the 5D and just needs to trust it when shooting high ISO and forgo a few fps


5D Mk III|7D |1DmkIV |10 -22 |24 -105 F4 IS L | 35 F2 IS | 70-200 F2.8 IS II L | 85 1.8 | 300 F2.8 IS MK II L|1.4 Extender MK III |
flickr (external link)
david kissman photography (external link)

  
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AB8ND
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Sep 23, 2014 07:16 |  #15

Plumtreelad wrote in post #17171253 (external link)
So, going back to where the OP started, he has the 5D and just needs to trust it when shooting high ISO and forgo a few fps

Exactly.
Get and use an incident meter, you might want to calibrate it to your camera, watch the chain gang and if you can try to slide into the players box, if the coaches don't complain. A 200mm lens should be plenty, you just need to wait until the action comes to your side of the field. You don't shoot at 1/1000 either, 1/400 or 1/500 is plenty, no reason you can't shoot as low as 1/250th, just keep tracking the runner or play as you squeeze the shutter.
FPS isn't the mark of a good camera, I still can't figure out how or why spray and pray is good photography, if you can't see the picture a burst of 10 or 12 frames isn't going to either. Yes, there are times that a fast "motor drive" burst will get that money shot, but it could miss it too.

Jack




  
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Couple Questions - Shooting Football
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