Last I heared, there was talk about a 50mm f1.4 IS
Oct 02, 2014 06:24 | #16 Last I heared, there was talk about a 50mm f1.4 IS Roland | Amateur Photographer
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Oct 02, 2014 07:09 | #17 UKmitch86 wrote in post #17189448 ![]() I don't understand why, with a wide aperture and a modern AF system, that you wouldn't benefit from IS in exactly the same way you would benefit from increased ISO - after all, that's all you're getting, just a couple of stops flexibility. What's IS got to do with image quality? (apart from the obvious) Because if you have IS on, it means your shutterspeed is lower than usual. If you have subjects moving towards or away from you just a little bit, you will notice strange edges of the subject due to the thin depth of field and the slow shutterspeed. Sony A7RII | Sony A7S
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ponch10 Member ![]() 73 posts Likes: 1 Joined Feb 2012 Location: UK More info | Oct 02, 2014 07:34 | #18 Why on earth would anyone need IS with 1.4 or 1.2 ?
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Left Handed Brisket Combating camera shame since 1977... ![]() More info | Oct 02, 2014 09:35 | #19 the aperture can be changed. PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20
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DreDaze happy with myself for not saying anything stupid ![]() More info | Oct 02, 2014 09:42 | #20 Submariner wrote in post #17189462 ![]() As a true fan of IS I would have agreed with you until yesterday! Canon UK confirmed if the shutter speed is greater than or especially greater than 2x the focal length, then it is best to turn OFF IS! This was in response to my question having heard that statement elsewhere. Bluntly I asked them why was it not in the manual? And why? They double checked and said say I put my 70-200L F2.8 II at 100mm, and set my shutter speed at 1/200 my pictures would be better with IS off! A little bit sharper! That was a total eye opener for me. Most of my work is 70 to 100mm in a studio with a shutter speed of 1/160 ( max synch speed ) �� Apparently its not in the manual as many novices would leave IS off when say the shutter speed was lowered; and as the benefits of turning off IS above the FL shutter speed is marginal, but to turn it off under the FL shutter speed can be dramatic - they went for protecting the Lens's reputation. Apparently this is documented on the CPS support pages. I did have a quick look and couldnt find the article but there is a lot there! have you tried putting it to an actual test? i doubt you'd see any difference Andre or Dre
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pulsar123 Goldmember More info | Oct 02, 2014 11:55 | #21 Submariner wrote in post #17189462 ![]() Most of my work is 70 to 100mm in a studio with a shutter speed of 1/160 ( max synch speed ) �� Are you using strobes in your studio? If yes, the 1/160s exposure setting is irrelevant. The important number is the flash duration, which is more like 1/1000s, so no IS is needed in studio with strobes. 6D, Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC, 135L, 70-200 f4L, 50mm f1.8 STM, Samyang 8mm fisheye, home studio
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Left Handed Brisket Combating camera shame since 1977... ![]() More info | Oct 02, 2014 12:50 | #22 pulsar123 wrote in post #17190075 ![]() Are you using strobes in your studio? If yes, the 1/160s exposure setting is irrelevant. The important number is the flash duration, which is more like 1/1000s, so no IS is needed in studio with strobes. that's way over generalized. In fact many flashes have a huge range depending on power output. Granted, it will still be faster than that 1/160 but i've seen flash durations claimed as slow as 1/200 and as fast as 1/10,000 PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20
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Canon Bob Goldmember 2,063 posts Likes: 52 Joined May 2007 Location: Poitou-Charentes, France More info | Oct 02, 2014 15:19 | #23 pulsar123 wrote in post #17190075 ![]() Are you using strobes in your studio? If yes, the 1/160s exposure setting is irrelevant. The important number is the flash duration, which is more like 1/1000s, so no IS is needed in studio with strobes. That assumes that any ambient light isn't playing a part in the exposure and that's often not the case. 1Dx2 (2), 5DSR, 1Ds3, 1D4, 5D2(590nm), 5D2(720nm) EF600 EF400 EF300-II EF300 EF200 EF200-II EF180L EF135L EF100 EF85-II EF50L TS-E17/4 TS-E24L-II TS-E45 TS-E90 MP-E65 EF70-200-II EF24-70/2.8-II EF16-35/4 EF8-15/4 EF11-24/4 Zeiss 15/2.8 21/2.8 25/2 28/2 35/1.4 35/2 50/2 85/1.4 100/2 135/2 T/C's L-SC & a WIFE!
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Oct 02, 2014 15:55 | #24 Yes I also had the 15 FE, I bought it to replace my Canon 15 2.8 for partyphotography UKmitch86 wrote in post #17189567 ![]() I still see reports of poor AF with Sigma - there's no denying that they're reverse engineering the Canon AF routines, they have to - it's this requirement that puts me off - I had a 300/2.8 and 50/1.4, neither of which were right. MFA didn't help. I'm not Sigma bashing, but it's just my experience - my 15mm FE is amazing, old school AF too, sounds like the 50/1.8 but it's perfect. Sony A7 III | Metabones V | Canon 16-35 F4 L | Sigma 85 1.4 Art | 70-200 2.8L II
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pulsar123 Goldmember More info | Oct 02, 2014 19:53 | #25 Canon Bob wrote in post #17190381 ![]() That assumes that any ambient light isn't playing a part in the exposure and that's often not the case. Bob Not in my basement studio: without the strobes the photo is essentially black (I am running it at f/9, ISO 100, 1/160s). I thought that should be the norm? I wouldn't want an obvious ambient light to mess up with my photos. 6D, Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC, 135L, 70-200 f4L, 50mm f1.8 STM, Samyang 8mm fisheye, home studio
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