Any news on new 50mm lenses

Last I heared, there was talk about a 50mm f1.4 IS

UKmitch86 wrote in post #17189448
I don't understand why, with a wide aperture and a modern AF system, that you wouldn't benefit from IS in exactly the same way you would benefit from increased ISO - after all, that's all you're getting, just a couple of stops flexibility.

What's IS got to do with image quality? (apart from the obvious)

Because if you have IS on, it means your shutterspeed is lower than usual. If you have subjects moving towards or away from you just a little bit, you will notice strange edges of the subject due to the thin depth of field and the slow shutterspeed.

I wouldnt say it would happen everytime, but often enough i would guess.

When i get home i upload an example (no IS but relatively slow SS at 1.2 + subject movement) so you get an idea.

Why on earth would anyone need IS with 1.4 or 1.2 ?

Assuming with a given ISO (appropriate for correct exposure), a shutter speed of 1/50 would get us no camera vibration effect in the shot. A 4 stop IS would let you drop that to 1/6, which is great. However I fear that in that situation the ambient will be pitch dark, and good luck focusing at 1.2 with no light.

I can see how the IS of a F4 actually adds something, but on f1.4? It is really overkill, beside the extra size and weight. And I am not even considering that with today's cameras you can just boost the ISO and still keep really good results. Anyway we are talking about impossible light conditions.

ponch10 wrote in post #17189644
Why on earth would anyone need IS with 1.4 or 1.2 ?

the aperture can be changed.

:p

Submariner wrote in post #17189462
As a true fan of IS I would have agreed with you until yesterday!
Canon UK confirmed if the shutter speed is greater than or especially greater than 2x the focal length, then it is best to turn OFF IS!

This was in response to my question having heard that statement elsewhere.
Bluntly I asked them why was it not in the manual?
And why?

They double checked and said say I put my 70-200L F2.8 II at 100mm, and set my shutter speed at 1/200 my pictures would be better with IS off! A little bit sharper!
That was a total eye opener for me.
Most of my work is 70 to 100mm in a studio with a shutter speed of 1/160 ( max synch speed ) ��
Apparently its not in the manual as many novices would leave IS off when say the shutter speed was lowered; and as the benefits of turning off IS above the FL shutter speed is marginal, but to turn it off under the FL shutter speed can be dramatic - they went for protecting the Lens's reputation. Apparently this is documented on the CPS support pages.
I did have a quick look and couldnt find the article but there is a lot there!

have you tried putting it to an actual test? i doubt you'd see any difference

Submariner wrote in post #17189462
Most of my work is 70 to 100mm in a studio with a shutter speed of 1/160 ( max synch speed ) ��

Are you using strobes in your studio? If yes, the 1/160s exposure setting is irrelevant. The important number is the flash duration, which is more like 1/1000s, so no IS is needed in studio with strobes.

pulsar123 wrote in post #17190075
Are you using strobes in your studio? If yes, the 1/160s exposure setting is irrelevant. The important number is the flash duration, which is more like 1/1000s, so no IS is needed in studio with strobes.

that's way over generalized. In fact many flashes have a huge range depending on power output. Granted, it will still be faster than that 1/160 but i've seen flash durations claimed as slow as 1/200 and as fast as 1/10,000

pulsar123 wrote in post #17190075
Are you using strobes in your studio? If yes, the 1/160s exposure setting is irrelevant. The important number is the flash duration, which is more like 1/1000s, so no IS is needed in studio with strobes.

That assumes that any ambient light isn't playing a part in the exposure and that's often not the case.

Bob

Yes I also had the 15 FE, I bought it to replace my Canon 15 2.8 for partyphotography

The Art's are really a different league, it's a new high quality range like the L's.
If they weren't that good I would have stayed with the L's
Dankata also replaced his 35L with the 35 Art, it's better in everything.

The 50 Art is superbly sharp wide open, consistent focussing, don't have any issues and also not with my 35 Art.

UKmitch86 wrote in post #17189567
I still see reports of poor AF with Sigma - there's no denying that they're reverse engineering the Canon AF routines, they have to - it's this requirement that puts me off - I had a 300/2.8 and 50/1.4, neither of which were right. MFA didn't help. I'm not Sigma bashing, but it's just my experience - my 15mm FE is amazing, old school AF too, sounds like the 50/1.8 but it's perfect.

Canon Bob wrote in post #17190381
That assumes that any ambient light isn't playing a part in the exposure and that's often not the case.

Bob

Not in my basement studio: without the strobes the photo is essentially black (I am running it at f/9, ISO 100, 1/160s). I thought that should be the norm? I wouldn't want an obvious ambient light to mess up with my photos.

My main strobe (580EX through a large umbrella) has a flash duration less than 1ms at 1/2 power setting, so IS is not needed.