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FORUMS Sony Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Sony Cameras 
Thread started 24 Feb 2014 (Monday) 08:30
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Sony A7 models with non-Sony lenses

 
RedCatPhoto
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Oct 09, 2014 05:06 |  #3391

Thank you very much Vinz.

This is a single shot, with a bit of tilt to get most of the scene in focus.


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Oct 09, 2014 05:26 |  #3392

oh so that's one of the plus of a TS lens? nice.... thanks for the info.


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Oct 09, 2014 05:43 |  #3393

Stunner after Stunner JM, nice work!


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Oct 09, 2014 05:44 |  #3394

Thank you Eddie!

vinmunoz wrote in post #17203034 (external link)
oh so that's one of the plus of a TS lens? nice.... thanks for the info.

Yes, that's one of the plus, to change the plane of focus, which often comes in handy for lansdcape.


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Oct 09, 2014 05:46 |  #3395

wow i gotta have one. just clicked the wishlist button. hehe your fault. :)


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Oct 09, 2014 06:07 |  #3396

Any advice for a tilt-shifter wannabe would be appreciated. Like a tip sheet in a nutshell. I've got a TS-24 Mk i and plan to take it to Utah next week, coupling it to the A7r via Metabones III, sadly little practice time with the setup.


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Oct 09, 2014 07:34 |  #3397

You have time in the next couple of days. Spend 15-30 minutes at a time experimenting. Focus peeking on the A7r apparently makes it a lot easier to see the effect of the focus plane moving than through an OVF


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digital_AM
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Oct 09, 2014 09:13 |  #3398

Awesome work guys.

Just received my metabones IV adapter. Attached my canon 16-35L f2.8 lens. Tight fit on the lens side but it works. I have a trip to see family in Arkansas next week. Hope to get some fall colors.




  
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Oct 09, 2014 09:24 |  #3399

MedicineMan4040 wrote in post #17203069 (external link)
Any advice for a tilt-shifter wannabe would be appreciated. Like a tip sheet in a nutshell. I've got a TS-24 Mk i and plan to take it to Utah next week, coupling it to the A7r via Metabones III, sadly little practice time with the setup.

Dont have the lens just now but owned the TSE-24 II previously (and hopefully again soon). Set your camera up completely level in both directions for best results. Easier to do with the A7 series but previously on my 5D2 I would use a hot shoe bubble. Once set up frame your shot using the shift function. if you take 3 photos either down middle and up or lft middle and right, they are easily stitched in photoshop using the automerge feature (other software available - microsoft ICE, PTGUI etc). Setting up the camera this way and using shift to frame your shot keeps all the perspective correct as opposed to physically angling the camera up or down which leads to convergence of verticals etc. However not always necessary with landscapes so dont be worried about angling the camera down to get the horizon where you want it.

Now with tilt - Tilt allows you to increase or decrease the dof. Assuming you are shooting landscapes and you want to increase the dof, first set your shot up as above and set the lens in its central position i.e no shift. apply downwards tilt and focus on something at the very bottom of the frame using zoomed live view. Adjust your focus until its in focus and then zoom to something on the horizon and check the focus. If its out of focus you have either applied too much tilt or not enough. Trial and error from there will get you to be where you want to be. Once there you now have a larger DOF than you would have got with hyperfocal focussing at your chosen aperture. With the A7 series this process is slightly easier I believe as peaking will get you to the correct tilt angle faster.

Couple of other points -

1 - once tilt is applied and you are happy with it you dont need to re-tilt or adjust it when you shift. Just set it when the lens is not shifted and shift as much as you like after that.
2 - If using GND filters, again set in the neutral position then dont adjust the filter when you shift
3 - If your camera is at chest/head height tilt angles will be small. Start at about 1 degree and tweak from there. The closer to the ground the more tilt required
4 - Always meter your shot in the unshifted position. When the lens is shifted it messes with the metering

Thats the basics in a nutshell. Theres more to tilt like adjusting the focal plane to run a focus at an angle across the image but that will just confuse things at the moment

Eddie


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Charlie
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Oct 09, 2014 09:50 |  #3400

MedicineMan4040 wrote in post #17203069 (external link)
Any advice for a tilt-shifter wannabe would be appreciated. Like a tip sheet in a nutshell. I've got a TS-24 Mk i and plan to take it to Utah next week, coupling it to the A7r via Metabones III, sadly little practice time with the setup.

well it's a wide angle lens, if you stop down, you dont have to worry about tilt much unless subject is really close, but with the A7 camera, you can see the tilt effect. The main function will be the shift function to create panoramas. The main difference with mk1 is that you cant do shift and tilt independently, everything rotates.

I still have the 17, but I hesitate to use it around water.


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Oct 09, 2014 10:14 |  #3401

Charlie wrote in post #17203356 (external link)
well it's a wide angle lens, if you stop down, you dont have to worry about tilt much unless subject is really close, but with the A7 camera, you can see the tilt effect. The main function will be the shift function to create panoramas. The main difference with mk1 is that you cant do shift and tilt independently, everything rotates.

I still have the 17, but I hesitate to use it around water.

The other main difference is that optically the MkII is a far better lens, especially when significant shift is used... :D

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Oct 09, 2014 11:22 |  #3402

off camera flash with 26" octabox firefly modifier

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5611/15487899102_e36404b4f9_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pABw​P9  (external link) brooklyn-14 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr

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Oct 09, 2014 14:44 |  #3403

^^ love the feeling in this capture Vinz!


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Oct 09, 2014 17:22 |  #3404

Thanks JM.


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Oct 09, 2014 18:59 |  #3405

the guy who's selling me the old nikkor 24mm also asked me to try his old nikkor 135mm f2.8 and guess what he's no longer selling it anymore. He just want me to have it as long as i want until he can find a camera to use them.

here's how the 135 looks like in my A7R

IMAGE: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2945/15304831037_68ae030a30_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pjrg​4c  (external link) Nikkor135F28-7 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr

here's some quick test all at f2.8 except the last one which was at f4. no cropping and only little tweak in LR.

the girl was only about 2.5 feet away from the small tree and look at the bokeh...
IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3930/15491047382_def9c36b9b_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pATE​FQ  (external link) Nikkor135F28-6 (external link) by
vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr
IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/15491398995_8df268ce48_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pAVt​d8  (external link) Nikkor135F28-5 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr
IMAGE: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/15488250581_cef51d2990_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pADk​i8  (external link) Nikkor135F28-4 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr
IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3954/15491399615_34431729d8_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pAVt​oP  (external link) Nikkor135F28-3 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr
IMAGE: https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2950/15488251111_e56366fa1f_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pADk​sg  (external link) Nikkor135F28-2 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr
IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3942/15304832387_d871c0fa7a_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/pjrg​st  (external link) Nikkor135F28-1 (external link) by vinzmunoz (external link), on Flickr

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Sony A7 models with non-Sony lenses
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