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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 23 Nov 2014 (Sunday) 12:49
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Why I hate my 18-55..help

 
FEChariot
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Nov 24, 2014 21:49 |  #31

DC Fan wrote in post #17291527 (external link)
To re-emphasize, that image of the people in the bird masks is an example of the correct use of a Canon 18-55mm lens (one of the newer image stabilized versions in this case). The subject size and distance are where the lens operates best. The OP example requires a different unit for best results, and something much like the US $10,000 500mm f/4 image stabilizer lens (external link) would be a correct choice. There's a reason bird photographers prefer the longest super telephoto lenses (external link).

I think that joke hit you on the forehead with a glancing blow and kept going.


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Alveric
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Nov 24, 2014 22:31 |  #32
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DC Fan wrote in post #17288878 (external link)
The lens was being misused.

This is a more suitable birding example for the 18-55mm lens.
QUOTED IMAGE
[..]

Man, I woulda fallen off my chair had I been sitting down. LMAO


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Alveric
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Nov 24, 2014 22:39 |  #33
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Scrumhalf wrote in post #17291367 (external link)
Your first photo has at least 3 problems. First of all, you are shooting at F/10. That is totally unnecessary and is exacerbating your problems. You should have shot it at at least a couple of stops faster. Second, and this is directly related to your first problem, your shooting at F/10 caused so little light to come in that your shutter speed was only 1/25. With a crop camera and shooting at 55mm, I would try for a shutter speed of 1/75 or 1/100 sec. At 1/25, your hands may not have been steady enough to not induce shake and blur.

Finally, your photo looks overexposed and washed out. I would recommend that you turn on the blinky highlights in your review and learn to read the histograms to show you where you may be overexposing. I see that you are using Lightroom already, so if you expose to the right and watch out for blown highlights, you can pull back the highlights in lightroom very easily to possibly recover the feather detail in the bird.

But I suspect you need to take a step back as others have pointed out and read Understanding Exposure. Don't take it personally - photography is a technical undertaking and you need to understand the science behind it to be effective at it.

^^
This.

If the weather is dark and gloomy, then a documentary picture like this one should show the viewer that —inform him of the actual conditions under which it was taken: i.e. it should be a dark and gloomy photograph!! It shouldn't look like it was taken in sunshine (which is what the camera will try to do if you keep using the semi-auto modes). Camera should be set to Manual, aperture to f/4 to f/5.6, meter off a neutral tone in the scene using Spot metering and adjust the Shutter Speed accordingly, then re-frame and fire.


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kelikoi
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Nov 25, 2014 00:13 |  #34

Hahaha! This is so funny, priceless birdwatching photo :D

DC Fan wrote in post #17288878 (external link)
The lens was being misused.

This is a more suitable birding example for the 18-55mm lens.
QUOTED IMAGE

The wide-to-normal 18-55mm is best used for human-sized subjects.

For birding, which involves small subjects at long distances, a telephoto unit is needed, the longer the better. Plan for at least a 300mm lens to properly capture birds.


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groundloop
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Nov 25, 2014 11:12 |  #35

I'll add that in addition to all of the advice given so far (which is right on the money) that if you want to look into a good telephoto lens for capturing more distant subjects consider the Canon 55-250. Used ones (the IS II version) are selling on ebay now for around $100. While I understand that the newer STM version is a bit better, the IS II version is an excellent lens for the money. I've moved up to a 70-200 f2.8 and still have my 55-250 IS II as a backup and for times when I don't want to drag a big heavy lens around.




  
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ed ­ rader
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Nov 25, 2014 11:14 |  #36

DC Fan wrote in post #17288878 (external link)
The lens was being misused.

This is a more suitable birding example for the 18-55mm lens.
QUOTED IMAGE

The wide-to-normal 18-55mm is best used for human-sized subjects.

For birding, which involves small subjects at long distances, a telephoto unit is needed, the longer the better. Plan for at least a 300mm lens to properly capture birds.

haha!


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Nov 25, 2014 12:22 |  #37

frugivore wrote in post #17288825 (external link)
I see a photo like this on your Flickr. It was shot at F 10. Why f/10 and not just wide open?

Wide open would be soft as hell in his situation.


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Nov 26, 2014 23:05 |  #38

quadwing wrote in post #17292468 (external link)
Wide open would be soft as hell in his situation.

What situation is that? I shoot the 18-55mm wide open quite often and get perfectly acceptable images.

Shooting at f/5.6 would've let the OP lower the ISO to 400. And as long as the blur that she describes wasn't camera shake, I think she could've dropped down to an exposure time of 1/15s and further dropped the ISO to get a cleaner image. That's how I would have made the best out of that situation with that lens. Ideally, the OP should use a lens with a longer focal length, such as the 55-250mm, so that cropping wouldn't be necessary.




  
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Nov 27, 2014 03:44 |  #39

Wide open is not necessary synonym of soft ...
I use my 100-400 wide open and only wide open !
(right click if you want to see the exif)

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Cananeer
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Nov 27, 2014 05:12 |  #40

Some excellent info put up here for you to read - and this is an awesome start "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson.
Here is another bit of info (albeit a small one) "Read The &^%$#@ Manual - then after you've read it 5 times go back and read it again. Learn the camera - that lens wasn't made to do what you were trying it will take some great pics if used the right way.




  
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Nov 27, 2014 06:30 |  #41

lol @ shooting birds @ f/10 and 1/25 and then wonder why pics comes out crappy


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Alveric
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Nov 27, 2014 11:41 |  #42
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Heh, I don't think the OP is following the thread anymore.


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Nov 27, 2014 12:04 |  #43

that'd be a shame is she was scared off...hopefully it's just life getting busy...


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Nov 27, 2014 14:56 |  #44

Alveric wrote in post #17296152 (external link)
Heh, I don't think the OP is following the thread anymore.

With posts like "Read The &^%$#@ Manual", that is not surprising.

The fact is that the kit 18-55 lens is an abomination, and just upgrading to a 50/1.8 can make the difference.
For bird photography, a used 400/5.6 would be my recommendation. Even for beginners.

Experimenting and learning on your own is more fun than reading &^%$#@ Manuals.


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Reservoir ­ Dog
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Nov 27, 2014 16:49 |  #45

CheshireCat wrote in post #17296435 (external link)
With posts like "Read The &^%$#@ Manual", that is not surprising.

The fact is that the kit 18-55 lens is an abomination, and just upgrading to a 50/1.8 can make the difference.
For bird photography, a used 400/5.6 would be my recommendation. Even for beginners.

Experimenting and learning on your own is more fun than reading &^%$#@ Manuals.

Yep !


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Why I hate my 18-55..help
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