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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 28 Nov 2014 (Friday) 21:15
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7d mark ii sharp image

 
hollis_f
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Dec 03, 2014 07:01 |  #46

cerett wrote in post #17306251 (external link)
Solving the issue with MAF adjustments does not seem reasonable with a brand new camera. I will pass on the 7DII.

Yes. I bought a new car and the seat was too low - so I sent that straight back. They suggested I tried turning the knob to raise the seat, but that doesn't sound reasonable with a new car.


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Dec 03, 2014 08:13 |  #47

I don't think it is the same thing. A car seat is not precision equipment were a slight adjustment will make a noticeable difference. In my case I need to me able to produce tack sharp images at minimal focusing distance and at 50 yards, like I used to.

I still think it is up to the individual. If they want to mess around to try to correct for sloppy manufacturing great. If a person doesn't then that is fine as well.

I think MFA is there it tighten things up not compensate. Besides since I purchased Canon equipment I will follow their instructions and Chuck and other Canon PDF documents say 50X. My house is not big enough to achieve those distances on some of my lenses and it is -25 Celsius outside so Canon should be providing me with a facility so I can do this correctly if they want me to fix this.

I know I don't tow the MFA line and I'm a minority with this view but that is the way it goes.


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LonelyBoy
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Dec 03, 2014 11:17 |  #48

hollis_f wrote in post #17299099 (external link)
Several people had problems with their new 7D. However, once you eliminated those who hadn't read (or understood) the manual; and those who thought that printing their image 5 foot wide and examining it with a magnifying glass was a good way to check IQ; and those who thought that a black cat, at night, in a cave, 50m away, was a suitable test subject; then there weren't many cases left. Some of these sent their cameras off to Canon who never, ever, recognised a common problem. Indeed most just had the AF recalibrated.

Then exactly the same happened with the 70D.

And the 7D MkII.

Er, you have no idea if that's true. We do know that Canon hasn't acknowledged an issue. We also know that a bunch of people had consistent issues. Some of them sent the camera in, got it "recalibrated", and the issue remained. Some managed to get the AF system replaced and their issue was fixed. Some people actually measured their AF points and found they were mis-aligned. Many companies have had systematic product issues and refused to acknowledge them, or were very late in acknowledging them (see the Tacoma frame rust issue), so it matters not a whit to me that Canon hasn't acknowledged anything. That proves nothing.

I don't know why it's so important to you to push all or most of these issues onto the users, but over in another thread an admin told a person experiencing them to report comments doing that.


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ppmax
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Dec 03, 2014 13:26 |  #49

hollis_f wrote in post #17307774 (external link)
Yes. I bought a new car and the seat was too low - so I sent that straight back. They suggested I tried turning the knob to raise the seat, but that doesn't sound reasonable with a new car.

For what it's worth, I don't think that's an appropriate analogy. I posted this on fredmiranda.com discussing the same issue that I think is more appropriate:

Out of curiosity, if you bought a brand new car with fuel injection, and they gave you a little knob to tune the mixture, would you want to drive a car off the lot that NEEDED to be tuned right off the bat?

That's how you lose customers, not keep them. You can't have a crappy out of box experience...its death in consumer electronics, especially in the internet age. How many people deferred purchase of this body because of threads like these? If your product gets a bad rap these days you're toast...even if it isn't deserved.

This is why canon needs to make sure--to the extent they can--that your first picture is in focus IF the camera says its in focus...not a foot in front.

After all, the 7d2 MANUAL says that MFA normally isn't necessary. E.G. It is not normal that one should need to spend four hours dialing in your lenses to get a focused picture.

I read somewhere that each tick in the MFA interface is equal to 1/8 of a DoF unit. I have no way to map this to the degree to which a lens/body combo fits in the tolerance stack up calculation between all the mating parts in the assembly, but I would suspect that tolerance stack ups resulting in "nearly out of spec" values would still result in "decent" focus....otherwise Canon's acceptable tolerances would be unacceptable.

My first shot out of the camera was OOF by at least a foot. That was rather extreme, and I sent the camera back.

Another factor in this is the effect of temperature on all the mating parts. If the nominal operating range of the camera and lens is (for example) 50*C, I would expect that the camera can take good pictures within that range. If I need to MFA my lens to +17 to get an acceptable shot, where does that leave me next time I take a picture when the temperature is different by 20*C?

Anyways, here's to hoping body #3 will be better....


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Dec 03, 2014 14:33 |  #50

I only have the 17-55 2.8 (100-400 ii pre-ordered) Had to micro adjust to +10 for both wide and telephoto. Now it is tack sharp. When I get the 100-400 will see if it is the lens or camera. Really does not matter as long as I keep getting sharp images.


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Dec 03, 2014 14:40 as a reply to  @ alann's post |  #51

As long as you you are happy is all that counts.


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RodS57
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Dec 03, 2014 18:29 |  #52

My newbie 2 cents worth.

As this is the only camera I have that has the MFA option I am new to this.

I don't think you should have to MFA a new camera. I am pretty sure the tolerances leave little room for error but even without adjustment you should be able to get a good shot and not be forced to make adjustments immediately. That being said, it is nice to have the ability to tweak things to your satisfaction.

From all the posts I've read regarding sharp focus on the 7D2 the biggest problem seems to be inconsistent focus. Some front focus shots, some back focused. I think this indicates more of a problem than having to MFA your lenses.

To date I don't know what my camera is like in terms of focus accuracy or consistency. Haven't had many chances to really try it out. The first few practice shots weren't really sharp. As a result I have tried the dot tune method but am revising the numbers I came up with. I did get some sharp shots with the 70-300L but I am now concentrating on the tamron 150-600 set up as that will be the default lens for this body. The tamron works ok on my T3i but hopefully I can get it working a bit better on this camera.

My biggest problem tends to be operator error but after reading about other people's problems I would like to be sure my camera works the way it is supposed to but....-?

Rod


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alann
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Dec 05, 2014 09:48 |  #53

Got my 100l macro lens this morning. Mounted it on the 7dii. Sharp as a tack with no micro adjustment. My +10 micro adjustment was the 17-55 and not the camera. This lens is tack sharp with close subjects and distant subjects. :-)


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Dec 05, 2014 10:39 |  #54

RodS57 wrote in post #17309608 (external link)
My newbie 2 cents worth.

As this is the only camera I have that has the MFA option I am new to this.

I don't think you should have to MFA a new camera. I am pretty sure the tolerances leave little room for error but even without adjustment you should be able to get a good shot and not be forced to make adjustments immediately. That being said, it is nice to have the ability to tweak things to your satisfaction.

From all the posts I've read regarding sharp focus on the 7D2 the biggest problem seems to be inconsistent focus. Some front focus shots, some back focused. I think this indicates more of a problem than having to MFA your lenses.

To date I don't know what my camera is like in terms of focus accuracy or consistency. Haven't had many chances to really try it out. The first few practice shots weren't really sharp. As a result I have tried the dot tune method but am revising the numbers I came up with. I did get some sharp shots with the 70-300L but I am now concentrating on the tamron 150-600 set up as that will be the default lens for this body. The tamron works ok on my T3i but hopefully I can get it working a bit better on this camera.

My biggest problem tends to be operator error but after reading about other people's problems I would like to be sure my camera works the way it is supposed to but....-?

Rod

The key is to keep it simple when you start. Even though this camera looks overwhelming with all the menus it really isn't that complex. It is only complex if you make it complex for yourself. Factory settings should yield 80% of what you normally shoot.

Using single point or expanded AF and if choosing an appropriate shutter speed you can basically take it tout of the box and do well. If you get into Zone AF you need to take some time to learn how to use it. Also if you are shooting fast erratic small birds, dragsters, hockey player you may need to try out other things.

I'll be using the PDF manual for page references.

Assuming you are in single or expanded

- the only real adjustment you can make in single shot is One shot AF release priority. Choices are Focus and Release and for single shot I would bet 99.9% leave it on the factory setting - Focus (page 121)

- in AI Servo you have 1st and 2nd priority options which are similar to one shot, just more options. You could leave that on the factory setting of Equal for both for the life of your camera and do well. I have a link to sports photographer that left those at the factory settings. (pages 117 & 118)

- Then you have the Case #'s. Case 1 and 2 will be more than enough for most of your shooting. Don't worry about the parameters for now. Just go and shoot and when you start to get comfortable then start exploring them if you wish to. (page 108)

That is about all there is to it.

Not sure where you are at right now but this can help you. Set your multi controller to move the focus points around and the AF area selection lever to change AF modes. This can be done by pressing the Q button and opening the camera icon.

Forget the arrow. The two to set these are circled.

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Later take a minute to read this. There is some information about a new feature called iTR Af that you should be aware of. It won't cause any problems but it does not hurt to know what it does. (page 128)

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Dec 06, 2014 09:47 |  #55

My first one went back. Taking the new 7d2 to shoot some U15 and U18 girls soccer today. We'll see how it goes. Weird thing - I could not get a 430exII to work on 7d2 #1. Threw it on 7d2#2 and boom, worked fine.


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Dec 07, 2014 13:04 |  #56

Some speed and agility


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Dec 07, 2014 14:42 as a reply to  @ 8612images's post |  #57

Hi
could you say what settings were used for these two images please?




  
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Dec 07, 2014 15:05 as a reply to  @ 8612images's post |  #58

Those look good.


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Dec 07, 2014 15:22 |  #59

Glyn Fuller wrote in post #17318696 (external link)
Hi
could you say what settings were used for these two images please?


7d2 with 70-200mm II
ISO 400
F4 1/1250
Case 4 (-2 tracking, 1 accel/decal, 0 focus)
Manual exposure
Evaluative Metering

1st one is at 168mm, 2nd 115mm


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Dec 07, 2014 15:29 |  #60

I think the focus is off a tad to the front on some but not all, even at same focal length. Still going though game shots
Focus point (single) on #1 is just above the team crest under chin. #2 hand locked at elbow, just a tad to the right side player


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