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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 06 Dec 2014 (Saturday) 18:49
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Buying first savage seamless, advice on headshot setup

 
Alveric
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Dec 22, 2014 12:52 |  #31
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It can be either preference or necessity. Personally, I use a separation light most of the time.


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gonzogolf
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Dec 22, 2014 13:13 as a reply to  @ post 17345748 |  #32

Its not overkill, its not always necessary either. So much depends on hair color, background color. Key light position, the clamshell technique you used before is enough to prove some hair light, just not rim hair light. Plus if you are gelljng fhe background you might need both.




  
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digitalduck
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Dec 22, 2014 13:40 |  #33

Thanks Gonzo and Alveric! Gonzo, I guess what I would be doing now is using my clam shell from before with either one of the three setups below.. honestly not sure which to do:

1. Strobe in 60” shoot through and reflector underneath for fill with strobe ill purchase today with grid for background
2. Strobe in 60” shoot through and speed light in smaller umbrella underneath clamshell for fill then speedlight ill purchasein background with grid
3. Speedlight in 60” with umbrella and speedlight background with grid.
4.
So even sticking to the clamshell setup, I wonder if the strobe at least power would still be to bright… still need to purchase a separate stand, 560II and grid so seeing what would the best way to utilize them.

Thanks!




  
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gonzogolf
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Dec 22, 2014 13:52 as a reply to  @ digitalduck's post |  #34

You've discovered why mixing speedlites and strobes turns out to be less satisfying in practice than theory. If I were you rather than spending much more on speedlites I would be riding craigslist hard for older strobes.




  
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digitalduck
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Dec 22, 2014 14:02 |  #35

LOL, this guy lives in my town

http://denver.craigsli​st.org/pho/4785895743.​html (external link) (rather have the 800 thought)

But I get you.. I could get a less powerful version of my Flashlight like a 120W for $60 (just kidding) I know we talked about that a year ago :)




  
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gonzogolf
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Dec 22, 2014 15:18 |  #36

Thats a heck of a deal. I have thd ab800, ab1600, and a pair of older white lightning 1600s. It would be nice to have a 400 in the mix but I cant until the employment situation gets clarity.




  
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digitalduck
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Dec 22, 2014 15:46 |  #37

Hmm, well it that doesn't work out I suppose I can still do the strobe in the clam shell and the 568exii for the background. Technically I wouldn't have ot buy another speed light but was planning on it. Then ill pick up a stand and grid for the Speedlight background...

Q.. When it comes to metering.. aside from deciding on flash sync or dragging it a bit, but cant I meter the strobe coming out of the clam shell... even though the angle is a bit off I can meter around the nose to be in the middle of the hair and chin etc... or do you just chimp and go that route due to the positioning?

Thanks everyone :)




  
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gonzogolf
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Dec 22, 2014 17:22 as a reply to  @ digitalduck's post |  #38

Why would you drag the shutter in a studio situation? Provided you are not balancing some ambient element a studio shot will not look appreciably different at at any shutter speed so pick one close to native sync. I'm not certian I understand your question about metering but uou would meter the key light on the cheek. Rim or hair light can be metered where it falls on the subject but chimpimg can be useful as there might be reason to want the separation light brighter or darker than the key.




  
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digitalduck
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Dec 22, 2014 17:44 |  #39

Yeah it sounded funny as I was typing it :) What I meant was even though it’s a living room if I’m shooting at say 1pm then I meant if I was not at 250 and say 60, in case I wanted to open up the thunder grey a bit.. but even with all the windows, there still isn’t enough to make a big difference..

I was just wondering about “metering” for the clam shell setup if I wanted to.. but you answered that. I could just shoot and adjust, but with the clam shell strobe above and not really to the side at a 45’ but in retrospect, I guess it wouldn’t matter since whatever light hits the meter, that’s what it bases its exposure.




  
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nathancarter
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Dec 22, 2014 18:16 |  #40

Set your shutter speed to 1/200 and leave it. MAYBE 1/250, but I found 1/200 was much more reliable with my 60D. (1/160 with 5D3)
Set the aperture to what you need for your creative purposes - for standard studio portraits, f/5.6 to f/8 is generally appropriate.
Set ISO to 100.

This will kill pretty much any indoor light, unless there's sunlight coming in the windows and falling on directly your subject and shooting area.

Now leave the camera settings alone, and set your lights. Adjust exposure by changing the power level of your lights, not by fiddling around with camera settings.

Meter and test each one independently - Meter and take a photo with ONLY the main light (with and without reflector), make sure it looks OK. Turn off the main light, take a photo with ONLY the background light, it should make a nice stark silhouette. Take a photo with ONLY the hair light, make sure it's making a nice edge/separation, and no wacky shadows or highlights where you don't want them. Make sure each light is going exactly where you want it - trying to set up all three simultaneously will be tough.

If you find that you have to turn your lights way way up, and it's taking a long time to recycle and eating up your batteries, then you can turn up your ISO to 200.


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Buying first savage seamless, advice on headshot setup
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
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