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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EOS Digital Cameras 
Thread started 31 Jan 2015 (Saturday) 16:22
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Stupid calibration questions

 
Lichter21c
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Jan 31, 2015 16:22 |  #1

OK, so I have a 1DMK3 and a 7D. i got my new (Super old) 300 2.8 NON IS in today. it needed calibration pretty bad. I use FOCAL, it has served me pretty darn well in the past and has zeroed in my lenses.

So i started with my 7D and it said it needed +17... no biggie.

But when I hooked up my 1DMK3, it seems that they have lost functionality with their newer software. it wouldn't let me do anything. So my question is, it the +17 just for the lens? so I can put +17 on the 1DMK3 and call it a day? or is calibration determined on lens+body combo?


thanks


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Charlie
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Jan 31, 2015 16:27 |  #2

doesnt work that way, use dottune method.


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JeffreyG
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Jan 31, 2015 19:16 |  #3

Nope, doesn't work that way. My 1D4 always needs different MA numbers compared to my 5D3.

Personally, I've looked at a bunch of different methods from Focal to dot-tune, and my opinion is that they all suck. I do not consider any of these methods to be reliable.

I set up a three piece target set and I carefully MA my lenses at a reasonable distance.


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sssc
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Jan 31, 2015 20:22 |  #4

JeffreyG wrote in post #17409170 (external link)
Nope, doesn't work that way. My 1D4 always needs different MA numbers compared to my 5D3.

Personally, I've looked at a bunch of different methods from Focal to dot-tune, and my opinion is that they all suck. I do not consider any of these methods to be reliable.

I set up a three piece target set and I carefully MA my lenses at a reasonable distance.

Care to share your setup or how to?


Keith- EOS REBEL T2i 18-55,55-250.85 1/8. 100-400L. 10-22 f/3.5-4.5. 24-105mm f/4L IS

  
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JeffreyG
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Jan 31, 2015 20:56 as a reply to  @ sssc's post |  #5

I set up three boxes....breakfast cereal or similar. The center is the target and the other two are set equal distance (typically +/- 8 inches) before and behind the target. I set the camera on a tripod with the AF point on the target box. The camera should be at least 50X the focal length from the target, but ideally it is set at the distance you use the most for the lens in question.

I focus on the target with AF, and then check the appearance of the other two boxes in live view at 10X. The goal is for the two non-target boxes two be equally soft. I adjust MA until I achieve this, and I typically will make sure with several repeats to see how consistent the results are.

The Sigma dock allows (punishes you?) with the ability to do this at four different focus distances, as well as four zoom points (for zooms). My experience is that this really works well but it is a complete PITA to do the work, especially if you have more than one body.


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DigiBill
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Feb 01, 2015 06:41 |  #6

My Canon T3i does not have the feature to fine tune each lens. However I wanted to know how well the focus was working with each lens. I used this simple technique to determine if I was experiencing front or back focus.

http://cameralightlens​.com/newsblog/?p=264 (external link)

Hope some find this useful.


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sssc
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Feb 01, 2015 10:36 |  #7

So if i got a 85MM lens and 50x85=4250MM convert to Foot =13.94 so say it is 14ft rounded up. Hope i am on the right track here.Time to clean off the counter for some space.:-(


Keith- EOS REBEL T2i 18-55,55-250.85 1/8. 100-400L. 10-22 f/3.5-4.5. 24-105mm f/4L IS

  
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apersson850
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Feb 02, 2015 03:37 |  #8

He he, the beauty is that you don't have to convert anything that complicated. 4250 mm is simply 4.25 m. (I'ts always mm, not MM).


Anders

  
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Sdiver2489
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Feb 03, 2015 15:47 as a reply to  @ apersson850's post |  #9

I've never used any of these fancy pants focus test methods....I've never found the need to be a certain distance back from a subject (with a Canon lens at least).

What I do is display a focus test pattern on my screen:

http://www.photo.net/l​earn/focustest/scale45​.jpg (external link)

I then stand (or sit) off axis about 45 degrees and take the shot being careful to align the frame to the lines on the test.

The screen gives me plenty of brightness so I can use low ISO and high shutter speeds...no need for a tripod. I take a series of shots altering the MFA setting slightly (and more recently on the wide and tele end of the lens) and just sharpness on the Camera screen until I settle on a setting.

Then I'm done. No expensive system...no complicated measurements. Go out and shoot and don't change it unless something seems wrong with it in the future.


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GregDunn
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Feb 04, 2015 00:43 as a reply to  @ Sdiver2489's post |  #10

So you're standing at a similar distance to the screen as you would to your real world target? Realize, too, that the microadjust value will probably change with different lighting conditions (color temp) as well as distance.


Canon 1Dx | 5D3 | 7D2 | 6D | 70-200L f/2.8IS | 70-200L f/4 | 24-70L f/2.8 | 24-105L f/4IS | 100-400L f/4.5-5.6IS | 17-55 f/2.8IS | 50 f/1.8 | 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 | 4x Godox AD360

  
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Sdiver2489
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Feb 04, 2015 01:48 as a reply to  @ GregDunn's post |  #11

I've tested with all sorts of distances but generally I'm at a distance where the center line is still easily differentiable from the other lines to guarantee the right target is picked up.

If I had that much variation from a lens due to distance and or color temp it would be returned for a refund. I'm not going to set a MFA for the color temp I am shooting in that day nor have I found the need to. Fortunately, my monitor is calibrated to 6500K which is the same as outdoor sunlight so it's a good middle of the road setting anyway.

This is just my method, others are free to set up whatever they find works for them but it's been a method that's been reliable and sinple wig no money invested.


Please visit my Flickr (external link) and leave a comment!

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Canon 5D III, Canon 24-70L F4 IS, Canon 70-300L F4-F5.6 IS, Canon 100mm F2.8L IS Macro, Canon 35mm F2.0 IS, Canon 430EX II-RT, Canon 600EX II-RT

  
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number ­ six
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Feb 04, 2015 14:49 |  #12

I use an ISO12233 chart and a tripod for accurate, repeatable measurements. It looks like this:


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A large, very high quality image of this chart can be downloaded from http://www.graphics.co​rnell.edu …sc/ISO_12233-reschart.pdf (external link)

I had this file printed 12X18 inches by Costco for $3.00, as I recall.

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Stupid calibration questions
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