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Thread started 03 Feb 2015 (Tuesday) 22:10
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Canon 50 1.4 vs 1.2 for shooting basket ball indoors, thoughts?

 
Motor ­ On
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Feb 05, 2015 20:07 |  #16

One thought, is I would go to playback 3 option 2 and turn on the AF point display in playback, even in AI servo it will show which point locked if a point did indeed lock. You can check these in DPP now, but if you get a few passes in game it can be helpful to see what it is hitting and make adjustments accordingly (is it moving off the intened point is is actually too slow, does it need to have the accel/decel speed adjusted, etc.)

With the girls basketball it looks almost like it stayed with the girl in white. I also have first and second shutter priority set to focus (your first priority seems ok) it's the 2nd that affects everything after that first grabbing focus, so if that's more toward release that might be what allows it to fire when you're not in focus on the tracking point. I have used case 2 from time to time so I don't think that's the cause, but it might be worth trying out a different case to see if it will improve the results. If you go off what the manual says, basketball is an example of case 4. I try to generally choose a case based on logic and try two or three modes at the beginning of a season to see where I'm having the most luck, and if I feel I'm missing images early in a game I'll change it up accordingly.


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col_ccc
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Feb 05, 2015 22:22 |  #17

I use the 1.2 for hockey pics, the wife uses the 70-200. I find it crisp and fast.

Chris




  
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CatchingUp
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Feb 06, 2015 13:31 |  #18

On a few occasions....I've used my 1.4...pre-focused manually of the rim...then kept it in manual and waited for the action to go there and fired away. Not bad results....but you have to be careful of the low DOF. May get the ball in perfect focus and the face blurred...and visa versa.


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wallstreetoneil
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Feb 06, 2015 13:59 as a reply to  @ post 17416767 |  #19

After some experimenting with AI-Servo for hockey (I'm on the bench and get to do a variety of shots including kids coming right at me at speed), I settled on:

AI-Servo Case 2
- like you tracking reduced by 1 to the lowest setting at -2
- but I increased Acceleration by +1 up from the Default 0 to now 1
- switching I left unchanged at 0

I have settled on the expanded 4 focus points - there has been some posting on one of the 7D2 threads with some good data that shows the hit rate goes up significantly with expanded 4 and expanded 8 over Single Point. For me, expanded 8 hits players I don't want hit and most of the time expanded 4 is small enough yet bigger than a single point that it is the perfect compromise.

Looking at your setting on the 5D3 (1/640, F2.2, ISO 1250), I think I might try
- 1/800 crisper
- F 2.5 - 2.8 (larger DoF)
- ISO 2000 (offset the above 2)


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askydiver
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Feb 06, 2015 14:10 |  #20

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #17418777 (external link)
After some experimenting with AI-Servo for hockey (I'm on the bench and get to do a variety of shots including kids coming right at me at speed), I settled on:

AI-Servo Case 2
- like you tracking reduced by 1 to the lowest setting at -2
- but I increased Acceleration by +1 up from the Default 0 to now 1
- switching I left unchanged at 0

I have settled on the expanded 4 focus points - there has been some posting on one of the 7D2 threads with some good data that shows the hit rate goes up significantly with expanded 4 and expanded 8 over Single Point. For me, expanded 8 hits players I don't want hit and most of the time expanded 4 is small enough yet bigger than a single point that it is the perfect compromise.

Looking at your setting on the 5D3 (1/640, F2.2, ISO 1250), I think I might try
- 1/800 crisper
- F 2.5 - 2.8 (larger DoF)
- ISO 2000 (offset the above 2)

Thank you for your ideas, I shall give them a go tonight. I've been soaking up everything in this thread and intend to play more tonight.


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Feb 06, 2015 15:04 |  #21

^ Good luck, tonight!!! Give us an update when all is said and done!!!

:)


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disneydork06
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Feb 06, 2015 16:11 |  #22

With the way you're using the AF (quite a few points correct?) you may be losing the shots because you have a much wider view than when you use the 70-200 at 70. You get less of a disturbance of subject matter when you zoom in to 200.
I usually use just one focus point and use thumb focusing on the back


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Feb 06, 2015 16:46 |  #23

I have read about AF points a while ago and it was a website that explained that the AF point sensitivity may not be exactly where Canon indicates. Sometimes it is quite a bit off.

I wonder if something similar is at play here. The 50mm is quite wide so I can easily imagine you putting the AF indicator on one player, while the sensitive area is on another. (given the complex AF system of the 5d mk3, youre likely dealing with a lot of AF points though).

With the 70-200 it might not be such a big deal as your subjects could fill more of the frame. I also dont know if the AF point sensitive area is dependant on lenses.

Im sorry I cant remember the website.


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askydiver
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Feb 10, 2015 21:19 |  #24

So I've shot a couple of games, I turned on the auto focus marker to see where it was on each shot. I kept noticing that I was just off or just missing where I wanted it to be. After much frustration and messing around with different settings, I said screw it and put my 70-200 back on, only to have the problem follow to that lens. Now I was really depressed. Not sure what made me think of it, but I pointed the camera at the roof, it's nice and white and checked my diopter. Oh my, suddenly I could see my auto focus points through the view finder, nice and crisp and clear. Went back to shooting and my keeper rate jumped noticeably. We start conference championships on Friday so I'll have more chance to really sort it out, but I'm about 99% sure that most of my settings were just fine. The problem was not the camera or the lens, but rather my diopter being out of focus and making it very hard for me to see and lock focus at just the right times. Once that was fixed it was pretty nice and I was/am decently happy with what I'm producing again. I plan to stick with the 50 1.4 at this point. For the money and the now keeper rates I'm getting I can't justify stepping up to the 1.2. I'd sure love to have one, but that money needs to go elsewhere right now.

Thanks again for all the ideas and help guys, it's been a huge help and I learned a LOT in the process. Really glad that it turned out to be just the diopter being off. Not sure how it got so knocked out of whack and will not lie, I'd not mind having a lock on that bugger like the Nikon's do. So the moral of the story, check even the simplest of things!

BK


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Feb 10, 2015 21:49 |  #25

Glad everything worked out for you, good sir!!! Best wishes on all your upcoming games!!! Post here when u can!!!

:)


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davs442
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Feb 15, 2015 07:29 |  #26

I would turn off all those AF points and shoot center spot focus. The camera is becoming confused trying to figure out what you want in focus with all those bodies running around. I shoot drag racing mostly and have recently tried out shooting my nephews basketball games. I also shoot with a 5Dmk3. I shoot with my 70-200 f2.8 and have to crank up the ISO to keep the shutter speed up. I too will miss some shots when a player crosses through my field of view but the camera will regain focus quickly if you are tracking your player well. I'd shoot a game with center spot focus, AI servo and then determine whether you need to step to the 50 1.2


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bbarnett51
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Mar 04, 2015 17:11 |  #27

Do you have c.fn3 option 1 set to slow?

When shooting with multiple subjects this keeps the focus from quickly switching to another area when in AIservo. It makes a huge difference for me in sports and bird photography.

The 50 1.4 should be fast enough. I use a fantastic plastic 50 1.8 on occasion and it does great. I actually shot the Little Rock marathon with it this weekend. On a 7d it was the perfect focal length for my position and my keeper rate was very high.


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sandpiper
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Mar 04, 2015 21:15 |  #28

davs442 wrote in post #17432564 (external link)
I would turn off all those AF points and shoot center spot focus.

Spot focus? Do you mean centre point focus, or do you actually mean using spot focus? I don't see a reason to use the centre point spot focus, rather than the regular AF, it would be less accurate.




  
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Canon 50 1.4 vs 1.2 for shooting basket ball indoors, thoughts?
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