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Thread started 06 Mar 2015 (Friday) 12:56
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HELP!!! Aske to shoot HS BB game for paper in 6 hours

 
K ­ Soze
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Mar 06, 2015 12:56 |  #1

Hello,

I was asked to shoot a local HS BB game for a small local paper. I have never shot a BB game, except for the Bulls from the piad seats.

I have a 7DII a 5DIII I was thinking 70-200 2.8 on 7DII and the 24 to 105 or 16 to 35 f2.8 on the 5DIII

Ideas suggestion?

Should I bring both bodies?

Is the 70 to 200 on the 7DII faint to be to tight? I do not know where I will need to stand.


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JM ­ Photos
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Mar 06, 2015 13:01 |  #2

K Soze wrote in post #17463486 (external link)
Hello,

I was asked to shoot a local HS BB game for a small local paper. I have never shot a BB game, except for the Bulls from the piad seats.

I have a 7DII a 5DIII I was thinking 70-200 2.8 on 7DII and the 24 to 105 or 16 to 35 f2.8 on the 5DIII

Ideas suggestion?

Should I bring both bodies?

Is the 70 to 200 on the 7DII faint to be to tight? I do not know where I will need to stand.

If you're shooting a basketball game, you'll most likely be on one of the base lines (the line under the hoop).
I would definitely bring both bodies. One for when the players are at the closest side to you, and one for when they are at the other end.


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rdalrt
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Mar 06, 2015 14:04 |  #3

I would leave the 24-105 at home. f/4 won't cut it in most HS gyms.

f/2.8 will work on the bodies you have in a HS gym. Though if shooting ambient I still prefer faster primes. Do you have any faster primes?

Typical settings would be f/2.8, 1/800 and crank the iso to get proper exposure (likely up to 6400). Some folks do a custom white balance, but I usually just shoot in auto WB and adjust in post later if needed. If the lights are cycling, the wb will be different shot to shot anyways.

I shoot the longer lenses from the baseline out close to the 3 point line. The 16-35 would work right under the basket on the baseline.

I also sometimes shoot a quarter from the top row of the stands for a different perspective. But if you are shooting for the paper, you will probably want to stick to the baselines.


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K ­ Soze
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Mar 06, 2015 14:54 as a reply to  @ rdalrt's post |  #4

I have the:
50mmL 1.2
85mmL 1.2
100mmL f2.8 Macro

the 50mm is fast focusing enough, the 85mm is slow to focus and if I need that length I can put the 50mm on the crop to get about 85mm. The 100mm buys me nothing over the 70 to 200mm. I like the isolation the 50mm gives me on the FF camera but it is a little soft, but I do like that lens.

....Or just the forget a third lens and stick with the 70 to 200 on the crop and the 16 to 35mm on the FF. leave the 50mm in the car and get it at half time if I feel I want it.

BTW it is an online paper, it is more popular than the print paper around here.


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rdalrt
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Mar 06, 2015 15:25 |  #5

Ah. I would just stick with the 70-200 and 16-35 and have fun.


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JeffreyG
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Mar 06, 2015 15:46 |  #6

I'd put the 70-200 on the 5D3 and shoot the bulk of the game with that. It's about perfect.

For some wider shots, the 16-35 on the 7D would also be useful. 16-35 on a FF camera is wider than you will generally need for anything in the game itself.

I'd not bother bringing anything slower than f/2.8.


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Mar 06, 2015 15:51 |  #7

Good luck. After you get back post some photos!


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Mar 06, 2015 15:51 |  #8

JeffreyG wrote in post #17463669 (external link)
I'd put the 70-200 on the 5D3 and shoot the bulk of the game with that. It's about perfect.

For some wider shots, the 16-35 on the 7D would also be useful. 16-35 on a FF camera is wider than you will generally need for anything in the game itself.

I'd not bother bringing anything slower than f/2.8.

This +1.


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Post edited over 8 years ago by Craign. (3 edits in all)
     
Mar 06, 2015 16:52 |  #9

Both bodies plus 70-200 and 16-35 See comment #6 for a good place to start.
Try ISO 6400 f/2.8 and SS 1/640 sec. Great lighting and you might be able to use f/3.2 or 1/800 sec., highly unlikely both.
Go to any ISO to keep SS from being below 1/500 sec. A SS of 1/400 sec. will guarantee motion blur.
RAW, AWB or maybe custom depending on the arena lighting, High Speed Cont. AIServo
7DII - Turn Anti-Flicker (ON) if the arena has lights that cycle. It is wonderful - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Center, Center plus 4 or Center plus 8 on the 7dII whichever you prefer. I have tried Case 1, 2, 3 and 4 with no noticeable difference. Use your favorite.
Anticipate the action or your shots will be too late.


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Mar 06, 2015 17:08 |  #10

K Soze wrote in post #17463486 (external link)
Hello,

I was asked to shoot a local HS BB game for a small local paper. I have never shot a BB game, except for the Bulls from the piad seats.

I have a 7DII a 5DIII I was thinking 70-200 2.8 on 7DII and the 24 to 105 or 16 to 35 f2.8 on the 5DIII

Ideas suggestion?

Should I bring both bodies?

Is the 70 to 200 on the 7DII faint to be to tight? I do not know where I will need to stand.

A 70-200mm f/2.8 lens was long ago established as the fundamental basketball coverage unit. The essentiall shooing position is on the floor behind the baseline. With with any luck,your initial experience with real-world deadlines will not be too painful. Don't be surprised if you learn why deadline photographers' handle themselves in ways that hobbyists don't. Among other things, you'll learn that you will need to take pictures that support the game's story line, and that technical perfection means little if you have perfect images of a who is not a factor in the game's outcome. You'll also learn that game action dictates what you photograph and not what you personally like, and that action can happen at any place on the court or sometimes off the court at any instant . And the most important lesson is that images are useless unless you meet a deadline.




  
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K ­ Soze
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Mar 06, 2015 17:10 |  #11

Great info all thanks. I am off to section V Finals. I'll post a couple shots and a follow up.


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Mar 06, 2015 17:30 |  #12

JeffreyG wrote in post #17463669 (external link)
I'd put the 70-200 on the 5D3 and shoot the bulk of the game with that. It's about perfect.

For some wider shots, the 16-35 on the 7D would also be useful. 16-35 on a FF camera is wider than you will generally need for anything in the game itself.

I'd not bother bringing anything slower than f/2.8.

^^ this is what I would and current do for HS basketball. Good luck.


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K ­ Soze
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Mar 07, 2015 11:07 |  #13

OK it went fine last night. The team I was sent to cover lost. I sent the photos in right ofter the game so I did not fuss with WB much.

The 16 to 35 on the 7Dii was a good suggestion. It is a better sports camera than the 5Diii.

Here is the story http://thebatavian.com …ll-title-game-55-47/46941 (external link)


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Mar 07, 2015 11:52 |  #14

Outstanding! Loved your website photos. Great that you have more than just game action shots. Now the hard part - getting people to buy them.


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K ­ Soze
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Mar 07, 2015 12:17 |  #15

Not too worried about people buying them my fist time out. I was paid and compensated for mileage by the Batavian. I looked at the game as trying to tell a story and what would a parent want to see. I left the shot of them crying off of my website. Seemed like a downer when pics are for sale. Happy images probably sell better ;)


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HELP!!! Aske to shoot HS BB game for paper in 6 hours
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