Where might I be going wrong?

I have a small studio in my house as seen below. Normally my main light is turned forward a little more than showing.

I've noticed that using ISO 100, 5.6, 1/200, that I am almost constantly having to push a full stop in post. My background lights are running 1/4 +1/3 and my main is 1/2 +1/3. Obviously, the issue could be resolved by adding 1 stop to all the lights, but the main light can't go that much higher. I feel like I really shouldn't have to push at all in PP to get what I am looking for. I'm not getting any color cast from the walls FWIW.

What am I doing wrong? Or more accurately put, what can I do to fix it? I wouldn't think I need to shoot full power indoors to achieve this.

I'm in to see the responses.

I do understand that speed lights are not as powerful as we think, and shooting through umbrellas takes away some of their power output as well. I'd say bump your iso up to 200 or 400 and see what that does. You might also consider moving the light source closer to your subject...larger apparent size of the source, and less fall off of the light.

Hmm, I'd guess that one culprit might be that you're losing some light due to the umbrellas, which tend to bounce it everywhere a bit helter skelter. I'd also suggest moving them in closer if you can. It's hard being on carpet, but if you could get something to put under the paper (like plywood or something like that) you could put the light stands on it without worrying about popping holes in your seamless.

If nothing else you could bump your ISO a tad so that you're not pushing it in post as much.

Can we see an example photo, unedited?

Here you go. Same image, first out of camera, second after editing. My problem is that the background isn't "white" (a little dingy) and her skin tone is too dark. So, push 1 stop (which might have been a 1/4 stop too much but nothing is blown), highlight control, some slight shadow adjustment and set the blacks, and this is what I end up with. When I had strobes, I rarely had this problem. I understand that speedlights are considerably less powerful but in a controlled setting, they should be fine.

Mom loves them, but I feel like I had to do a little much in post.

Lotus, there are 2 8'x4' sheets of plywood under the backdrop, so an 8'x8' shooting surface.

huntersdad wrote in post #17469619
I have a small studio in my house as seen below. Normally my main light is turned forward a little more than showing.

I've noticed that using ISO 100, 5.6, 1/200, that I am almost constantly having to push a full stop in post. My background lights are running 1/4 +1/3 and my main is 1/2 +1/3. Obviously, the issue could be resolved by adding 1 stop to all the lights, but the main light can't go that much higher. I feel like I really shouldn't have to push at all in PP to get what I am looking for. I'm not getting any color cast from the walls FWIW.

What am I doing wrong? Or more accurately put, what can I do to fix it? I wouldn't think I need to shoot full power indoors to achieve this.

Suggestion: learn how to use a flash meter.
Measuring the intensity of light is more effective than guessing.

DC Fan wrote in post #17469969
Suggestion: learn how to use a flash meter.
Measuring the intensity of light is more effective than guessing.

I've thought about that, but with as little as I actually do in a studio type setting, I'm not sure it's a warranted expense. I would think, in theory, once I figure out what I'm doing wrong and my settings, they'll always be the same.

You need to balance the flash for every job a particular flash has to do. Background very white then that flash will be higher powered.

Everything should be manually set in static shoot like a studio.

You are going to have problems with a low white ceiling because any stray light is going to help light the subject and reduce the control you have.

You might want some black screens- just spray paint some poly boards.

john5189 wrote in post #17469996
You need to balance the flash for every job a particular flash has to do. Background very white then that flash will be higher powered.

Everything should be manually set in static shoot like a studio.

You are going to have problems with a low white ceiling because any stray light is going to help light the subject and reduce the control you have.

You might want some black screens- just spray paint some poly boards.

I think this is close to what you are looking at. It seems to me that the background is not being lit well enough, relative to the subject. It looks like you are overexposing the subject, relative to the background. That needs to be reversed.

Strontium wrote in post #17470001
I think this is close to what you are looking at. It seems to me that the background is not being lit well enough, relative to the subject. It looks like you are overexposing the subject, relative to the background. That needs to be reversed.

So would I shoot my flashes all at the same power?

Subject distance from the background is about 4-5 feet, depending on their movement (mostly kids). Another 2-3 from main light.

john5189 wrote in post #17469996
You need to balance the flash for every job a particular flash has to do. Background very white then that flash will be higher powered.

Everything should be manually set in static shoot like a studio.

You are going to have problems with a low white ceiling because any stray light is going to help light the subject and reduce the control you have.

You might want some black screens- just spray paint some poly boards.

Talking about flagging, correct? I would flag off the top of the flash to keep light off the ceiling. Would I be better off not shooting the background lights into an umbrella, just shooting them bare and flagged on the side closest to the backdrop and the top?

huntersdad wrote in post #17470019
So would I shoot my flashes all at the same power?

Subject distance from the background is about 4-5 feet, depending on their movement (mostly kids). Another 2-3 from main light.

First off, get a flash meter and then use all of your lights on full manual (not ETTL). Set the background lights for the illumination level you'd like to have for the background. Set the lights on the subject for the illumination level of the subject you'd like.

Your "out of camera" image appears to be overexposed when viewed on a fully calibrated monitor system. Your edited image appears to be even more overexposed.

Using a shoot-through umbrella causes light to be bounced all over the room. I would change that to reflected mode and put a black cover over the back of it. You'll want to do something for controlling main and fill light on the subject so the image isn't so flat.

SkipD wrote in post #17470033
First off, get a flash meter and then use all of your lights on full manual (not ETTL). Set the background lights for the illumination level you'd like to have for the background. Set the lights on the subject for the illumination level of the subject you'd like.

Your "out of camera" image appears to be overexposed when viewed on a fully calibrated monitor system. Your edited image appears to be even more overexposed or blown.

Using a shoot-through umbrella causes light to be bounced all over the room. I would change that to reflected mode and put a black cover over the back of it. You'll want to do something for controlling main and fill light on the subject so the image isn't so flat.

Skip, I'm not seeing the overexposure out of camera on my calibrated monitor. For the edited, higher keyed, yes, but nothing I'm seeing is overexposed.

I use the STU to soften the light, but I've never tried it with the backing. Sounds a like a good test. All the flashes are in manual and controlled by a ST-E3-RT. Histogram is showing everything pushed right, but nothing blown. In an effort to keep the background light off the subject, I normally place them about 1 foot in front of the background lights (BL are aimed opposite corners bounced into a covered umbrealla). With my kids, this works as they listen to me, other kids is where the problem creeps up.

Being that this is a 3 light setup, am I losing anything not having a light camera right for a little fill?

huntersdad wrote in post #17470051
Skip, I'm not seeing the overexposure out of camera on my calibrated monitor. For the edited, higher keyed, yes, but nothing I'm seeing is overexposed.

In the "out of camera" image, I don't see anything that is blown out but I'd prefer something like one stop less exposure of the subject. You simply need more light on the background to make it look like pure white.

huntersdad wrote in post #17470051
I use the STU to soften the light, but I've never tried it with the backing. Sounds a like a good test. All the flashes are in manual and controlled by a ST-E3-RT. Histogram is showing everything pushed right, but nothing blown.

You need a light meter. A histogram isn't a substitute for a meter. You need to be able to measure the light on the subject and also measure the light on the background. You also need to be able to measure main and fill lighting on the subject.

huntersdad wrote in post #17470051
In an effort to keep the background light off the subject, I normally place them about 1 foot in front of the background lights (BL are aimed opposite corners bounced into a covered umbrealla). With my kids, this works as they listen to me, other kids is where the problem creeps up.

Being that this is a 3 light setup, am I losing anything not having a light camera right for a little fill?

You have a one-light setup as far as the subject is concerned and it makes the lighting look very flat. In my opinion, you need to reduce the main lighting level a bit and add some fill so you can have shadows on the subject that show shaping of the face, etc., rather than have uninteresting flat lighting. Expose the image so that the subject is about a stop darker than in your "out of camera" image and change the lighting on the background to get the desired effect there. One to two stops more light on the background is probably what you want. Again, you'll need a meter to do this setup efficiently and repeatably.

OK, now I'm following you Skip.

So you would suggest either a reflector to bounce some fill or a 4th light for fill?