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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 15 Mar 2015 (Sunday) 17:57
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What Would Be The First L "Prime" Lens You Would Add?

 
Aus.Morgo
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Mar 16, 2015 00:07 |  #16

85L II

Otherwise I'd opt for Sigma Art in the 24, 35 & 50 primes (providing the 24 is available soon)


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Mar 16, 2015 00:16 |  #17

The EF 800mm f/5.6L IS USM because it's as arbitrary as the question.


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Mar 16, 2015 00:35 |  #18

I am plannning to buy a Macro 100mm L. That would be my first and, I think the only one, L lens I will buy.


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Mar 16, 2015 05:48 |  #19

None of them, if you got one, you want 'em all...

No seriously, prepare yourself to then wanting another L cuz theyre so damn good.. However, i would get the 16-35L first, after years of experience in the field and with what i shoot, ive seen this is my most used focal length. But when starting out i didnt think that this would become my favorite lens :)


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gqllc007
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Mar 16, 2015 06:11 |  #20

Looking at what you own already, I would consider the 135 F/2 L if you are going to do portraits outside. Also the 100 2.8L Macro IS




  
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Roxie2401
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Mar 16, 2015 06:57 |  #21

PineBomb wrote in post #17476871 (external link)
The EF 800mm f/5.6L IS USM because it's as arbitrary as the question.

Hi, I really didn't intend the question to be "arbitrary" or expect to see 600mm or 800mm responses.

Maybe I just got some bad advice, but I've been told that zoom lenses are, at best, a compromise due to the physical designs, they cannot be good across their full range.

And then the comments that "you should have at least one prime and learn to use it - since it makes you move around to frame the shot - you can't just be in one position and zoom in or out with a prime."

So, I was looking for that "best starting point" - maybe its just the basic 50mm lens. Something to shoot inside, people sitting around at a party/club; interiors, etc.

Sorry for the confusion or arbitrary question. I'm very new to this and still learning.




  
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MalVeauX
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Mar 16, 2015 07:07 |  #22

Roxie2401 wrote in post #17477132 (external link)
Hi, I really didn't intend the question to be "arbitrary" or expect to see 600mm or 800mm responses.

Maybe I just got some bad advice, but I've been told that zoom lenses are, at best, a compromise due to the physical designs, they cannot be good across their full range.

And then the comments that "you should have at least one prime and learn to use it - since it makes you move around to frame the shot - you can't just be in one position and zoom in or out with a prime."

So, I was looking for that "best starting point" - maybe its just the basic 50mm lens. Something to shoot inside, people sitting around at a party/club; interiors, etc.

Sorry for the confusion or arbitrary question. I'm very new to this and still learning.

Heya,

That advice you recieved in semi-true, but also semi-false. It's dated. But it's also restricted by budget.

Example, the 24-70 MKII and the 70-200 MKII are sharp enough to be prime-like in their ranges. They're truly excellent lenses. They are also truly expensive as you know.

You have two really good lenses, the 16-35 and the 70-200 MKII. You have an ok lens (24-105), and a total throw-away-lens (50 F1.8 II). Before just buying a prime for the sake of it, I would take a long hard look at what you need. You certainly don't need to buy an L prime just to have one. It's not magic. You need to figure out if you actually need F1.4, F2, etc. Because again, if it's F2.8, or slower, you're already well covered. You have to want the smaller, faster, prime for a reason, to not use that 70-200 MKII which is an amazing lens in every way if you're ok with the weight.

You can use any zoom you have at a specific focal length and you can force yourself to learn perspective that way, without buying a prime. Don't buy a prime for this purpose.

See which focal lengths you know you want to improve upon. If it's in the 16-35 or 70-200 range, I don't think you'll improve other than getting a faster aperture with a prime purchase realistically. If it's between 35 and 70, then a prime purchase makes sense to me.

To make it at all worth while, I would say that any prime you're considering, pretty much should be capable of F1.4 and be sharp at F1.4, so that you have a reason to have it compared to what you already have. The 50 F1.8 II does this nearly, but it's a really poor lens compared to the other glass you have. Changing it out for a Sigma ART 50 would be a big difference in every department. Likewise, a 35mm F1.4 makes a lot of sense, and there's two strong offerings there with AF and even more options in MF. So it really should be something you need and a focal length that isn't competing with your 16-35 and 70-200 which are exquisite. I would have a good fast prime for low light purposes, extreme low light where 2 or more stops on aperture makes a big difference to get away from your ISO ceiling (going from ISO 12800 to 3200 matters, right?).

But maybe you don't need a prime. Maybe F2.8 is enough for your needs.

In that case, ditch the 50 F1.8 & 24-105 and hunt down a 24-70 MII.

Or, consider a 35 F1.4 or 50 F1.4 of some flavor. I'd go Sigma either way on that one.

Very best,


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Roxie2401
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Mar 16, 2015 07:21 |  #23

Mal (and others) - Thank You so much for the great advice and for following this conversation. I really appreciate your taking the time to respond.

As I age I definitely am finding that "IS" is becoming more important. That, and faster lenses.

Thanks again!




  
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MalVeauX
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Mar 16, 2015 07:36 |  #24

Roxie2401 wrote in post #17477163 (external link)
Mal (and others) - Thank You so much for the great advice and for following this conversation. I really appreciate your taking the time to respond.

As I age I definitely am finding that "IS" is becoming more important. That, and faster lenses.

Thanks again!

Heya,

Unfortunately a lot of the good zooms and good primes lack IS at this time. They're slowly being replaced with IS versions though.

The 70-200 MKII you have is a good example of a zoom that is sharp as a prime, with IS. But you also know the cost of that.

The 24-70 MKII is prime sharp, but lacks IS.
Tamron & Sigma have 24-70 F2.8's with IS/VC/OS equivalents as options if you want to explore that (and are less expensive).

The 35 F1.4, 50 F1.4 options from all parties lack IS/OS/VC.

The closest option(s) is the 35 F2 IS (sharp as the Sigma 35A & Canon 35L in many tests).
Canon is due to release a 50 with IS soon, if you care to wait. Otherwise, there's no 50's with IS/OS/VC at this time.
Slowly they are releasing primes with IS though. The 24 & 28 have been released. The 35 is released. But they've yet to tackle 50, 85, 135, etc.

Most of the stabilized stuff is a zoom at this time.

Very best,


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Mar 16, 2015 09:05 |  #25

I think Malvaux speaks with the voice of reason and has covered most of what I'd recommend. In terms of performance, your EF 16-35 f4 (my next wanna) and your EF 70-200 MkII are prime-like and with a FF body cover both architecture and portrait requirements. In essence, you don't need another lens...:rolleyes:

What's left? For my way of thinking large aperture primes for subject isolation. For me, you need two f-stops to make the difference in subject isolation. So, we are talking about a 35 f2 IS or even better a 35 f1.4, a 50 f1.4, or an 85 f1.2 (or 1.8? I am not going to buy the 1.8, unless I concentrate my photography around that focal length and need a lighter lens).


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Mar 16, 2015 14:50 |  #26

I would buy the 85LII first without a doubt. It is in my opinion the best prime out there (yes there are nice teles, but 85 is my favorite FL)

If you want something wider, I would buy the Sigma 35/1.4 Art.

But those questions are a little strange to me.You know what focal length you like the most, we don't know yours. Buy the prime the closest to your favorite focal length and ask yourself if you do need the speed.


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Mar 16, 2015 20:45 |  #27

Roxie2401 wrote in post #17477132 (external link)
Hi, I really didn't intend the question to be "arbitrary" or expect to see 600mm or 800mm responses.


I was the one to suggest a 600mm, with the 1.4× Extender III. Along with a comment about needing more information about what you shoot. The thing is I do not shoot the same stuff as you do. Given the list of kit, you supplied the 600mm lens is the right lens choice for ME.

Now my reply to your amended question, for both architecture and portrait and looking at your current lens list I think you could probably do well to spend your money on lighting equipment. Control the light and you don't always need to have the super fast lenses. Anyway that's where I'd put my money in your situation.

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Tom ­ Reichner
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Mar 17, 2015 00:53 |  #28

Roxie2401 wrote in post #17477132 (external link)
Hi, I really didn't intend the question to be "arbitrary" or expect to see 600mm or 800mm responses.

BigAl007 wrote in post #17478209 (external link)
I was the one to suggest a 600mm, with the 1.4× Extender III.

And I was the other to answer with the 600mm f4.
But that was because of the question you asked in the thread title:
What Would Be The First L "Prime" Lens You Would Add?
You asked me what lens I would add. And I answered accordingly.

In the text of the post itself, you asked another question - what lens do we think you should choose? If I had chosen to answer this question instead of the first one, then my answer would have been quite different.


"Your" and "you're" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"They're", "their", and "there" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one.
"Fare" and "fair" are different words with completely different meanings - please use the correct one. The proper expression is "moot point", NOT "mute point".

  
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melcat
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Mar 17, 2015 01:59 |  #29

Roxie2401 wrote in post #17477132 (external link)
And then the comments that "you should have at least one prime and learn to use it - since it makes you move around to frame the shot - you can't just be in one position and zoom in or out with a prime." .... I'm very new to this and still learning.

You don't need to buy a lens to learn this lesson. In fact, you don't even need a camera. You can do a simple exercise in your living room in a couple of minutes. For clarity, I'll explain it in terms of what I have in my living room, but you can use any two similar sized and placed objects.

I have a pair of speakers and a couple of feet behind one of them, in a corner, a drum. The drum is about twice the height of the speaker itself (i.e. excluding the stand the speaker is on) and sitting on the floor. When I stand at the other end of the room, I see the drum is twice as big as the speaker. When I walk right up to the speaker, about a foot away, and look at the two objects the speaker now looks at least as big as the drum.

That's it! The image changes dependng on where you stand. So now that I'm standing where that image is how I want it, the only question is how much of the field of view I want in a photo - the wider the lens, the more there is. Once I've decided on the relative size of the speaker and the drum, I choose the focal length. If I have a zoom, I can usually choose one that has the appropriate field of view. If I have only one focal length, it may or may not be suitable.

Can you see now how backwards the comments you quoted are? Using a single focal length lens will at best delay your development because you can take far fewer pictures, at worst force you into compositions that weren't what you conceptualised.

Fixed focal length lenses are useful to perform tasks zooms can't, e.g. macro, or tilt-shift, or high speed, or very long focal lengths. That's why without some special purpose in mind it can be hard to choose one.




  
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Mar 17, 2015 02:24 |  #30

PineBomb wrote in post #17476871 (external link)
The EF 800mm f/5.6L IS USM because it's as arbitrary as the question.

LOL. But seriously a good answer.
I am less harsh and knowing nothing else about you or your needs, would suggest 135L F2. At least if everything work to the contrary and you hate the lens, you can sell it for what you paid for it, quick, and go for the next choice more wisely and at less loss. But then something inside tells me you are going to adhere with it.


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