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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Sports Talk 
Thread started 05 Feb 2015 (Thursday) 11:44
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Need Settings Help - Indoor Volleyball

 
metalhed
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Feb 10, 2015 08:22 |  #16

JoeMik wrote in post #17425112 (external link)
Thanks for digging this up. Looks like the only difference is the ISO, and the darker shot got a lower setting. Am I right to assume that you cropped out a measurable amount of background before posting these? And in the case of the blocking shot, that background was brighter than the uniforms of your blockers?

Each court I shot on had one side near a large window and one side with just walls so it made it hard to work both sides. The blocking shot is facing the windows (you can see it in the picture), the libero shot was on the non-window side. I cropped out the top of the libero shot and I don't think I cropped much of the blocking shot. I was sitting right near that shot on the bleachers...




  
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brendo9992000
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Feb 11, 2015 11:06 as a reply to  @ post 17424227 |  #17

I also use these settings (Auto iso) for indoor sports, Lightroom saves the day when processing, really helps with noise reduction.




  
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DC ­ Fan
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Feb 11, 2015 14:10 |  #18

metalhed wrote in post #17416682 (external link)
I got a new Canon EOS 70D for Christmas and this coming weekend I am taking it out for a volleyball tournament - using a Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 lens. I was noodling with the settings last weekend at practice and was unable to get a crisp picture. I was playing around with manual mode - set the AF to AI Servo and continuous shooting mode. I didn't really mess with the Shutter speed or aperature at all and realize I probably need to.

I am looking for suggestions for setting up my Canon to shoot indoor volleyball. Should I go with the Creative Sports mode? Switch to Tv or Av and manually adjust? If I go fully manual, what settings should I start with (realizing I will need to tune once I arrive in the gym)?

Any help would be most appreciated for a inexperienced photographer looking to learn ...

Exposure settings are easily and accurately achieved by using a light meter to take incident readings.




  
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metalhed
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Post edited over 4 years ago by metalhed. (2 edits in all)
     
Mar 03, 2015 09:46 |  #19

So this weekend I made a couple of the suggested changes - 1/1000 and f2.0 - unfortunately the facilities were not as well lit as the previous week. I have a feeling that is what caused "granier" pictures this weekend. The first photo attached was in a facility with decent light, the second was not well lit. Any suggestions for settings in facilities not as well lit (this coming weekend will be a poorly lit facility again).

I will update the meta for the images later today - when I have access to the RAW photos...

Thanks again for all the help.


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metalhed
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Mar 03, 2015 09:47 |  #20

Also, any suggestions for improving DoF in particular for shots like this photo? I got some great shots of the back line with all three faces but only one face was in focus - would love to try to get all three in focus...

Thanks again for all the help.


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wallstreetoneil
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Mar 03, 2015 13:03 as a reply to  @ metalhed's post |  #21

First of all I don't have a 70D so you are going to have to experiment to see exactly how you would implement this on your camera - the 5D3 and 7D2 are 3 program modes that you can store different setting so I would just switch from c1 to c2 to handle what you are asking.

You basically need two different setups - 1 for capturing fast moving sports and 2 for capturing a large depth of field (and since you light is low you really can't do both) so

1) Your 1/1000, F2, high iso for indoor volleyball, setup is for your freeze the action
2) you need a 1/120, F11, high iso for indoor volleyball, is for your Large Depth of Field when players are waiting for a dig setup

With an 85mm lens at F11 and at 20feet to subject you have about 7 feet of DoF (so aim at the middle player and the players 3.5' on either side will also be in focus. Because your light sucks, this is going to be a difficult task as 1/120 may not freeze even slowly moving people and F11 at 85mm at 20' is just on the edge of enough DoF - a wider angle 50mm shot at F5.6 would have 10feet on critical in focus DoF and would allow faster shutter speeds.

If you set up your camera in Manual Mode to Handle #1, I'm assuming you do this already unless the 70D has mode you can program, then you can move your Selection Dial to AV (Aperture Priority) and have it jump automatically to your desired Aperture that is needed to get everything in focus - i.e. you just need to move 1 dial 1 click and it will be setup. You will also want to go into the setup menu to force the minimum shutter speed to be high enough, as mentioned above, to freeze the slow moving defensive players waiting for the spike (I'm guessing 1/200 is about correct).

Also helpful will be for you to download a DoF calculator to your smart phone so you can quickly determine what Aperture you are going to need, and lens, given your seating location and distance from the players.


Given the brutal gym lighting you are facing, and it appears your desire for both a large depth of field and fast shutter speed, you may be an ideal candidate for a Sony A7S as you are going to need ISO 40,000 to get both - i.e. 1/1000, F5.6, 40000 iso with a 50mm would do the trick.


Hockey and wedding photographer. Favourite camera / lens combos: a 1DX II with a Tamron 45 1.8 VC, an A7Rii with a Canon 24-70F2.8L II, and a 5DSR with a Tamron 85 1.8 VC. Every lens I own I strongly recommend [Canon (35Lii, 100L Macro, 24-70F2.8ii, 70-200F2.8ii, 100-400Lii), Tamron (45 1.8, 85 1.8), Sigma 24-105]. If there are better lenses out there let me know because I haven't found them.

  
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metalhed
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Mar 09, 2015 10:29 |  #22

You have all been most helpful - I truly appreciate it :)

This weekend one of the gyms we played in caused many of my images to be quite yellow in tone (I will upload some samples later today). I was shooting at 1/850, f2.2 and auto iso. How can I adjust for the yellow look with my camera? Or is that something I need to do post? How can I remove the yellow in Lightroom?




  
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wallstreetoneil
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Mar 09, 2015 11:54 as a reply to  @ metalhed's post |  #23

Assuming you are shooting in RAW, what you need to do is watch a Youtube video on adjusting White Balance (WB) in Lightroom - it is very easy to do - but watch a few videos so you can mentally come to grips with what is going on. As we as humans have an automatic in-brain WB adjustment, we don't really understand appreciate that this is actually happening - but it is. It is good that you have reached this point because after this point you will start to excessively think about WB whenever you shoot - can I get it right in camera by picking a specific Kelvin temperature or should I do a custom White Balance (also search out these videos)


Hockey and wedding photographer. Favourite camera / lens combos: a 1DX II with a Tamron 45 1.8 VC, an A7Rii with a Canon 24-70F2.8L II, and a 5DSR with a Tamron 85 1.8 VC. Every lens I own I strongly recommend [Canon (35Lii, 100L Macro, 24-70F2.8ii, 70-200F2.8ii, 100-400Lii), Tamron (45 1.8, 85 1.8), Sigma 24-105]. If there are better lenses out there let me know because I haven't found them.

  
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metalhed
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Mar 10, 2015 08:37 |  #24

wallstreetoneil wrote in post #17467406 (external link)
Assuming you are shooting in RAW, what you need to do is watch a Youtube video on adjusting White Balance (WB) in Lightroom - it is very easy to do - but watch a few videos so you can mentally come to grips with what is going on. As we as humans have an automatic in-brain WB adjustment, we don't really understand appreciate that this is actually happening - but it is. It is good that you have reached this point because after this point you will start to excessively think about WB whenever you shoot - can I get it right in camera by picking a specific Kelvin temperature or should I do a custom White Balance (also search out these videos)

Thanks. I found that adjusting White Balance from "As Shot" to "Auto" took care of all of the yellow issues in my photos - simple fix :)

I will look for those videos you suggested and try to watch them this weekend when I have some free time...




  
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Ross ­ H
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Mar 12, 2015 12:42 |  #25

I know I'm a little late to the party, but I wanted to say that I found this information quite helpful: http://zivnuska.zenfol​io.com …-to-photograph-volleyball (external link)


Nikon D750 - Samyang 12mm f/2.8, Nikon 105mm f/2 DC, Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6, Nikon 20mm f/2.8
Nikon F2A, Nikon F4s - Nikon 24-120mm f/3.5-5.6D
Sony A7II, Voigtlander 15mm f/4.5, Voigtlander 40mm f/1.2, Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8

  
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BlakeC
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Mar 12, 2015 12:54 |  #26

A ton of reading here so forgive me if this has been covered. Make sure you are using a high end SD card as well.


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metalhed
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Mar 16, 2015 12:49 |  #27

Ross H wrote in post #17471884 (external link)
I know I'm a little late to the party, but I wanted to say that I found this information quite helpful: http://zivnuska.zenfol​io.com …-to-photograph-volleyball (external link)

Phil's site was the first site I found - I was immediately jealous of his photos :)




  
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Need Settings Help - Indoor Volleyball
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