Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Index  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Guest
New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear  •   • Reviews
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Nature & Landscapes Talk 
Thread started 07 Apr 2015 (Tuesday) 12:05
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

Trip to CA soon and want to be prepared, need advice

 
digitalduck
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
Post edited over 4 years ago by digitalduck.
     
Apr 07, 2015 12:05 |  #1

Hi everyone,

So long story short, I want more experience using an ND filter and will be going to California in July and will finally have my chance. We have enough spots around Colorado, but with our little girl it gets more difficult to get out. So I just have my basic equipment, but some questions on a proper filter and general landscape technique.

So I bought a 10 stop ND grad awhile back. Nothing of exceptional quality, just an ICE ND grad

http://www.amazon.com …-1&keywords=ice+nd+filt​er (external link)

I really haven’t had a decent chance to use it, but I feel like I’ve gained a lot more knowledge about using it properly, now I Just have to get out and use it in areas where ill really notice it, (ocean etc) So my first question really is just on general quality. I know I really haven’t had much use with the ICE filter I bought like 6 months ago, so I know someone could say “Use it first and see how it works for you” However, since I’ll be going to CA and it would be my first time at the ocean do I want to take a chance on quality or do (should) I buy something where I’ve seen results here on the forum? For instance I’ve seen a lot of people using the Haida filter

http://www.amazon.com …ated-Filter/dp/B00DNCO0L2 (external link)

1. Also, what about incorporating an ND Grad? I bought a very generic package of square filters that I really don’t want to use, but what about looking at something like a Cokin set? I only ask because I see how apparently easy it is to adjust the depth of the grad ND compared to a circular. Is there a cheaper alternative vs getting a Lee Big stopper system… (although I do like the Lee big stopper) and would like that as well, but my budget is only around $150-200

2. Regarding lenses, all I have is my Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS…. And my 70-200 2.8 Obviously ill bring the Sigma and just practice with that since it’s my first time putting my knowledge to use. Do I have a cheap alternative like a Tokin or something that is around $200? Or just use the Sigma for practice?

3. I have an app to determine proper exposure with the 10 sotp, but if im adding a grad ND I just add the additional stops to my total time correct?

4. If I have a scene where I want movement say in the clouds but I want the ocean still I would do do exposures with tripod of course and then blend in PP right?

5. If I have a scene where I want the waves crashing on a rock in the foreground, would the 10 stops be too much since it would be such a fast motion? Are there better times where having a 10, 8, 4 etc would make more sense?

6. I guess that’s all, I just want to be prepared with better quality filters that are within budget of around $150.

Thank you Everyone!




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)
freestylee30
Senior Member
Avatar
796 posts
Gallery: 164 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 170
Joined Jun 2007
Location: 98059
     
Apr 07, 2015 13:23 |  #2

I'll take a shot at this - hopefully you get some more feedback though.

I have the Haida 10 stop and a Tiffen CP and think they are both great. I don't see myself ever "upgrading" to the Lee system. It's just too much money that I'd rather spend on other stuff and these work great in my opinion.

I don't know of the ICE brand, so I can't comment there, except that if you are worried about quality I'd say the Haida ND and Tiffen CP are safe bets at around $110. I think many people are happy with this combo.

As to your numbered quesitons:

1) I think you're asking about a neutral density gradual filter? So you are looking for something where you could accomplish the shots in questions 4 & 5? If so, I don't have any experience with these, but I would mostly likely try to accomplish that in post - do you have access to Lightroom, Photoshop?

2) I think your Sigma 17-50 will be perfectly fine for this. The filter size (77) is pretty standard and don't cost a whole lot. For $200, I don't think you're going to get anything better. My favorite lens when I was on my 70D was the Tamron 17-50 f/2.8 - so same specs; don't know how they compare.

3) I don't see you needing the 10-stop +a gradual ND, but either way, you'd frame, focus and meter your shot before you put the 10-stop ND on and pay attention to your shutter speed. You input the shutter speed and the number of stops into the App. and it should spit out a total time to expose. If you are using a CP +10-stop ND, I'd would frame, focus and meter with the CP on, then input numbers into the App.

4) Sorry, no experience with this, but anything is possible in PP, right!? ;)

5) If you want to see waves crashing on the rocks like I'm envisioning, then I don't think you want any ND at all. You would want to freeze the wave hitting the rock, right?

One bit of advice - if you haven't already done so, you might go and visit the 9 & 10 stop ND filter thread and look at examples: https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=17508070. Then ask questions of the photographers either in the thread or via PM to better understand how they did it.


Brandon | zenfolio (external link)| ♥ feedback ♥
Eternal Blue Forever Green
Image Editing OK

CANON 5DIV 50 f/1.8 85 f/1.8 135 f/2L 70-200 f/2.8L IS II
ROKINON 14 f/2.8 | TAMRON 15-30 f/2.8 VC 24-70 f/2.8 VC | SIGMA 35 f/1.4 Art |

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
Post edited over 4 years ago by digitalduck.
     
Apr 07, 2015 13:45 as a reply to  @ freestylee30's post |  #3

Thank you Freestyle!

Yes i use Lightroom and Photoshop for my portrait work.. I think I was confusing myself on a couple of questions, but you did a great job.. for some clarirfication on my part:

1. Yeah, I meant a graduated ND filter... but I know i could add the graduation in PP, was juts wondering if something like a Cokin square system would be of any benefit...

I actually have the Tiffen CP 77mm
http://www.amazon.com …n+77mm+circular​+polarizer (external link)

If that would suffice, then I could pick up the Haida ND filter....

You're right about the waves, yeah I think maybe a picture I saw had the awaves crashing, but the tide still was being blurred with the ND filter. This pic looked like it had more of a ND affect, maybe not as much though

http://farm9.staticfli​ckr.com …7120574705_45ae​fd8c46.jpg (external link)

What I meant with question 4 was for some shots where the ocean is frozen still, but the clouds are moving under a ND, that would require a regular exposure of the ocean and then putting on the ND for the filter i would assume...


Yeha, I have the ND forum page open in a different tab, thanks!!




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
freestylee30
Senior Member
Avatar
796 posts
Gallery: 164 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 170
Joined Jun 2007
Location: 98059
     
Apr 07, 2015 14:05 |  #4

Well glad I was able to help some then :)

So for #1 - yeah, I think most people are now doing this stuff in PP. LR makes it very easy.

So I'm not the best at this sort of thing, but to me the image you linked to looks to be shot at sunset. So you'd probably have less light and I'm guessing that it was a tripod and a slower shutter speed, but not necessarily something you'd need a ND filter for, but I could be wrong about that.

Something like these: http://www.amazon.com …age_o08_s00?ie=​UTF8&psc=1 (external link) could have been used I guess. I owned these in the past and they seemed to be decent, but I didn't really find an opportunity to use them much. They would definitely give you more control over your shutter speed though. They are cheap but have good reviews. You could use them individually or stack them to get the shutter speed you want.

digitalduck wrote in post #17508108 (external link)
What I meant with question 4 was for some shots where the ocean is frozen still, but the clouds are moving under a ND, that would require a regular exposure of the ocean and then putting on the ND for the filter i would assume...

This is hard for me to say... It could have been that the water didn't have much movement, but the wind was blowing and the clouds were moving fast? Or maybe two blended exposures - ND for sky and just a properly exposed ocean shot?


Brandon | zenfolio (external link)| ♥ feedback ♥
Eternal Blue Forever Green
Image Editing OK

CANON 5DIV 50 f/1.8 85 f/1.8 135 f/2L 70-200 f/2.8L IS II
ROKINON 14 f/2.8 | TAMRON 15-30 f/2.8 VC 24-70 f/2.8 VC | SIGMA 35 f/1.4 Art |

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
Post edited over 4 years ago by digitalduck.
     
Apr 07, 2015 14:26 as a reply to  @ freestylee30's post |  #5

Freestyle, I think what may be a great idea is the combination of the Tiffen CP I have

http://www.amazon.com …n+77mm+circular​+polarizer (external link)

and the Haida ND filter... although you had linked to the budget combination, but id hope that the Haida would be a better investment :) lol If im not mistaken I would have to add about 2 stops to my total time due to adding the CP when appropriate on shots.

Looking on the forum I see a lot of great results with the Haida and I can do the grad ND in post as long as its not too overexposed but that comes down to time of day of course... truthfully that should be all i need for great results...

Question.. is there a need for an 8 or 4 stop etc ND really? If the effect is almost identical in the end but would I miss it if I only had a 10 if ill be doing waterfalls, oceans and clouds etc...

I think that should about cover it...i appreciate the feedback...




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
freestylee30
Senior Member
Avatar
796 posts
Gallery: 164 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 170
Joined Jun 2007
Location: 98059
Post edited over 4 years ago by freestylee30.
     
Apr 07, 2015 14:33 as a reply to  @ digitalduck's post |  #6

Noooo, what I linked to was a kit of cheap ND filters to use when you don't need the stopping power of the Haida. I would definitely suggest the Haida 10-stop.

The cheap (but well liked/reviewed) filters would be used instead of the 10-stop. There would be times where you maybe only need 2-stops or maybe 6. So with these filters you could use 1, 2 or all 3 depending on how much light you wanted to block.

Here is a quote from the link I posted above:

Neutral density (ND) filters reduce the amount of light entering your camera, enabling a longer exposure time than otherwise possible. The ND8 provides 3 f-stop reduction, ND4 provides 2 f-stop reduction, and the ND2 provides 1 f-stop reduction. Stack filters for a total of 6 f-stop reduction.

For the shot you posted of the wave crashing on the rock, that might have only needed a 2-stop reduction (because it was shot at sunset). I doubt it was 10-stops, but I could be wrong.

Anyways, I was saying that @ $15 it wouldn't hurt to add these to your arsenal as well as the Haida.

Hope that clears up my intentions for the advice I was trying to give :)


Brandon | zenfolio (external link)| ♥ feedback ♥
Eternal Blue Forever Green
Image Editing OK

CANON 5DIV 50 f/1.8 85 f/1.8 135 f/2L 70-200 f/2.8L IS II
ROKINON 14 f/2.8 | TAMRON 15-30 f/2.8 VC 24-70 f/2.8 VC | SIGMA 35 f/1.4 Art |

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
     
Apr 07, 2015 15:00 as a reply to  @ freestylee30's post |  #7

Yup, figured it was something like that lol.. yes, thats a great idea and I think the only thing is to get over my initial "want" of the big stopper square type filter so I could add a square Grad ND filter since im so used ot watching videos of photogs using their square grad NDs etc.. However, id love to achieve the same results with my circular combo(s) and some PP...

Looking forward to the quality difference between the Haida and the ICE I have...

Thanks again!!




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
MalVeauX
"Looks rough and well used"
Avatar
13,405 posts
Gallery: 1737 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 11003
Joined Feb 2013
Location: Florida
     
Apr 08, 2015 23:03 |  #8

Heya,

A good filter is important if you want to have good images. Playing with a cheap filter to get the experience of using long exposure and learning how to use long exposure for a desired effect is fine. But for your actual image making, I would stress a good filter. Hoya, B+W, Haida, Marumi, etc, all make excellent stuff if you want circular filters. Circular filters are harder to use with other filters because of vignetting and because having a graduated ND filter will be difficult on top of that stacked, as well as issues with further vignetting. This is why plate filters are popular for these kinds of stacks.

10 stops is only necessary for super bright mid day long exposure. Or, if you want dramatic blurring effects of water or clouds, when you're talking 2+ minutes of exposure time.

A lot of the water stuff you've posted are things that don't need 10 stop filters, but rather, are just the effect of a 0.5s exposure which is common for an action blur water effect. Sometimes a 3 stop filter early morning or late evening is far more than enough, at F16~F22, to do this. More stops if you want your aperture wider (F8, F11, etc). 10 stop will force the time of day like that to be closer to 10 seconds or longer easily.

4 and 6 stop filters do make a lot of sense depending on what you're doing.

I use 3 stops and 10 stops. I like having several 3 stops so I can stack and make a 6 stop or 9 stop. I have a Lee 10 stop for straight 10 stop work. I also use 3 stop graduated ND's for stopping down light of the sky when doing water, etc.

But again, this all comes down to whether you want dramatic blur, or blur with action/motion. 2+ minutes is dramatic blur. Half a second is action blur (like that wave hitting the rock, etc). 10 stop is good for the dramatic blur. You can get by with far less if you just want some blur, that's where a 4 to 6 stop comes in handy. I'd go more towards the 6 stop overall.

Get quality whatever you do.

I spend a lot of time on the West coast of Florida. I use a 10 stop plate (Lee) and a 3 stop graduated softedge long plate (Hi-Tech). I do next to nothing in post, other than color correction or minor cropping, maybe contrast/saturation a bit, but that's about it, I like doing the least in post as possible, so I'm a clunky plate user.

Ex:

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7614/16734334548_e85a8d6341_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ruKQ​Ds  (external link) 20150313_100341 (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7626/16182534994_42da6261e4_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/qDZH​S3  (external link) IMG_3382 (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7597/16779008406_7f88b94533_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/ryGN​Co  (external link) IMG_3381 (external link) by Mwise1023 (external link), on Flickr

And that's just 30 seconds, turns the Gulf to glass. It was a calm day. On a really windy day, I'd go for 1~2 minutes if I wanted glass.

Very best,

My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
maverick75
Cream of the Crop
5,707 posts
Gallery: 2 photos
Likes: 613
Joined May 2012
Location: Riverside,California
     
Apr 08, 2015 23:48 |  #9

i got a bunch of filters, but then I found it easier to just wait until the scene was naturally more balanced.

but when going on trips you have to shoot whenever you can and hats when ND filers can and will save you butt!


- Alex Corona Sony A7, Canon 7DM2/EOS M, Mamiya 645/67
Flickr (external link) - 500px (external link) - Website (external link)- Feedback -Feedback

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
Post edited over 4 years ago by digitalduck. (2 edits in all)
     
Apr 09, 2015 12:13 as a reply to  @ maverick75's post |  #10

MalVeaux! Thank you for the advice. One thing I know is that yes, I am definitely going for the 10 stop blurry look. I love all of the examples I've seen in the forum and with where ill be going thats the look i want on my wall :) I feel that yes, a 6 stoop would be nice, but for wall worthy I have to start somewhere... regarding the square... filter..if I was just using the ND then I could get away with a Haida ND or is there still a bigger benefit of using a suqre alone vs circular?

I would love to get the Haida 10 stop circular, but I ideally would love a square style... I cant afford the big stopper and a CPL unless i use my circular Tiffen CPL and then screw in the adapter... I would love an option that isnt big stopper pricey, but Haida is 93.80 at amazon..

http://www.amazon.com …8-1&keywords=haida+nd+3.​0 (external link)

I know there are cheaper alternatives, (Ice $60) but i know I would want quality for my first time out.

Regarding a slot holder, I have heard that the LEE one works fine, but is there an alternative holder i could purchase instead? Also, I have the thought of a ND Grad in my mind, but know i can achieve (similar results) in Light room...




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
MalVeauX
"Looks rough and well used"
Avatar
13,405 posts
Gallery: 1737 photos
Best ofs: 4
Likes: 11003
Joined Feb 2013
Location: Florida
Post edited over 4 years ago by MalVeauX.
     
Apr 09, 2015 16:13 |  #11

Heya,

The Lee stopper is costly, but it's one of the best 10 stops out there in this size. This is a route you go if you end up with an adjustable 4x6 ND grad.

You can mimic 3 stop ND filters, the graduation, in LightRoom and other software--sure, but only to a degree. If it's only 3 stops and you didn't clip highlights, then it will work. But if you're exposing the foreground (typical) you will blow out the sky often, without ND use, and when you do that and try to recover it, if it's clipped it's gone. You then are at the mercy of your sensor's dynamic range, and if you clip white and can't recover areas, they're gone. This is why I use ND's instead of just relying on software (a common argument). I shoot near water often, and Florida skies are bright compared to the ground, so I find often times that 6 stops for the sky is what I need. And if I expose the foreground, and need -6 stops on the sky, software just won't do that with the dynamic range of the sensors I use (they sky would be clipped white and unrecoverable). This is my location and method though, it's different based on where you are and what you're doing.

If you just want to blur some water, start with the Haida or BW or Hoya. All great. 9~10 stops will do it. I wouldn't bother with a CPL with this, unless you feel the need or are in direct sun light. Then it's fine to just throw a CPL on there too if you need it.

I use a Hitech filter holder system instead of Lee. And my ND grads are HiTech too. I only use the Lee big stopper from Lee.

Note, the Lee Big Stopper is only $140 on Amazon. That's $40 more than the Haida circular filter.

You can use a cheap filter holder, they work fine, like the Zomei Square Z-PRO (make sure it's 100mm capable) with adapter ring the size threading you want (77mm is common). $20?

So while it is more costly than the Haida, you get the basis for a future setup that allows more options.

I would go that route if you're getting serious with ND.

Very best,


My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
     
Apr 10, 2015 15:11 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #12

Thank you MalVeau,

So ideally, I would like a 100 ND and ND Grad filter since I agree with you that I wouldn't want to deal with something in PP which may not turn out correctly. However, I looked but does Haida have an ND Grad offering or just the ND?

Would i have another option besides Big Stopper for that combination? I have a feeling since ill be ocean side that ill run into some situations where the NDG will come in handy.

I would love to get some shots of the sea with misc rocks
the sunset or sunrise at the beach (NDG filter)
Also a pic by the bay of San Fran late at night so ND and LE?

Either way Im super excited..




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Trvlr323
Goldmember
Avatar
3,290 posts
Likes: 1089
Joined Apr 2007
     
Apr 10, 2015 15:56 |  #13

digitalduck wrote in post #17507947 (external link)
Hi everyone,

So long story short, I want more experience using an ND filter and will be going to California in July and will finally have my chance. We have enough spots around Colorado, but with our little girl it gets more difficult to get out. So I just have my basic equipment, but some questions on a proper filter and general landscape technique.

So I bought a 10 stop ND grad awhile back. Nothing of exceptional quality, just an ICE ND grad

http://www.amazon.com …-1&keywords=ice+nd+filt​er (external link)

I really haven’t had a decent chance to use it, but I feel like I’ve gained a lot more knowledge about using it properly, now I Just have to get out and use it in areas where ill really notice it, (ocean etc) So my first question really is just on general quality. I know I really haven’t had much use with the ICE filter I bought like 6 months ago, so I know someone could say “Use it first and see how it works for you” However, since I’ll be going to CA and it would be my first time at the ocean do I want to take a chance on quality or do (should) I buy something where I’ve seen results here on the forum? For instance I’ve seen a lot of people using the Haida filter

http://www.amazon.com …ated-Filter/dp/B00DNCO0L2 (external link)

1. Also, what about incorporating an ND Grad? I bought a very generic package of square filters that I really don’t want to use, but what about looking at something like a Cokin set? I only ask because I see how apparently easy it is to adjust the depth of the grad ND compared to a circular. Is there a cheaper alternative vs getting a Lee Big stopper system… (although I do like the Lee big stopper) and would like that as well, but my budget is only around $150-200

2. Regarding lenses, all I have is my Sigma 17-50 2.8 OS…. And my 70-200 2.8 Obviously ill bring the Sigma and just practice with that since it’s my first time putting my knowledge to use. Do I have a cheap alternative like a Tokin or something that is around $200? Or just use the Sigma for practice?

3. I have an app to determine proper exposure with the 10 sotp, but if im adding a grad ND I just add the additional stops to my total time correct?

4. If I have a scene where I want movement say in the clouds but I want the ocean still I would do do exposures with tripod of course and then blend in PP right?

5. If I have a scene where I want the waves crashing on a rock in the foreground, would the 10 stops be too much since it would be such a fast motion? Are there better times where having a 10, 8, 4 etc would make more sense?

6. I guess that’s all, I just want to be prepared with better quality filters that are within budget of around $150.

Thank you Everyone!

1 - I used to do this with a Cokin filter set and it gave me pretty good results but I gave up on it. Purists will disagree but if for whatever reason I was going to blow out the sky I started taking an additional exposure and combining the 2 in post or sometimes adding a grad filter in post if I needed a small reduction in exposure. Properly done you can't tell the difference. When using the Cokin set I stopped using the holder and just held the filter to the front of the lens. Works fine.

2 - The Sigma should be fine. Practice with it and use it. No need to spend extra money.

3 - With a graduated ND filter only you would meter for the scene without the filter and then without altering anything for exposure, add the graduated ND filter to darken part of the scene. Similarly with the 10 stop ND you calculate your exposure for the 10 stop ND only and then add the graduated filter without any further calculation. Be aware that combining filters from different makers like this can sometimes produce a different color caste from each filter and can be tricky to fix in post. Also, you will likely find that the longer your exposures are the more you will need to expose to the right (add time to your exposure). The apps don't usually account for this.

4 - Why not? Give it a try.

5 - You can play around and see. Often you might be able to alter your camera setting without any filters to get the shutter speed you require. Assuming you want a fairly small aperture for your purpose but you can still cut down a 10 stop ND exposure time by increasing ISO.

Hope that helps you out. Have fun!


Sometimes not taking a photograph can be as problematic as taking one. - Alex Webb

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
IShootThings
I thought I was special.......
Avatar
2,032 posts
Likes: 26
Joined May 2009
Location: North Cali
     
Apr 12, 2015 22:56 |  #14

digitalduck wrote in post #17508108 (external link)
If that would suffice, then I could pick up the Haida ND filter....

You're right about the waves, yeah I think maybe a picture I saw had the awaves crashing, but the tide still was being blurred with the ND filter. This pic looked like it had more of a ND affect, maybe not as much though

http://farm9.staticfli​ckr.com …7120574705_45ae​fd8c46.jpg (external link)


This might have been answered already but I'll add three things:

I'm not familiar with Haida but I have this and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com …&sr=8-1&keywords=A77ND400 (external link)

That image you linked to is from Baker Beach in case you wanted to try that shot.

The crashing wave in that shot was probably captured without an ND filter. Use a higher aperture with the sun setting behind you and a 1/2 second or so shutter (you'd have to play around with this one a little bit) and you could obtain a similar image. If an ND filter was used, it was probably only between one and three stops.

Good luck!


Canon 5D3, Canon XTI (IR converted), 24-70 f2.8L, 16-35 f4L, 50 1.4, 70-200 f2.8L, 100 2.8 macro, 430 ex & 580 exII speedlights.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
digitalduck
THREAD ­ STARTER
Senior Member
Avatar
595 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Aug 2013
Location: Fargo, ND
     
Apr 13, 2015 10:45 as a reply to  @ IShootThings's post |  #15

Thanks Ishoot and everyone! Yeah, I see now that the linked photo is obviously not with an ND filter.. crashing waves are the dead give away, not sure what i was thinking :)

I am looking forward to putting this plan into action..I think I should get some sort of 100mm filter but can i at all use a circuar ND and a square 100mm GND? I guess it depends on the order I stack them.. can the grad ND be first?

ALSO... the tripod I have is just a Dolia 68" ball head.. nothing fancy.. if its not a windy day it "should" be ok... but I think I have a problem with it... with the screw in plate that goes on the camera, once i have it locked to the ball head and have it in portrait position... when I let go it seems like it starts to dip slowly down like something isn't tight but I think I have the plate screwed in tight... I wonder if im out of luck with anything in portrait postilion....




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links
(this ad will go away when you log in as a registered member)

6,670 views & 3 likes for this thread
Trip to CA soon and want to be prepared, need advice
FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Nature & Landscapes Talk 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Index   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.1forum software
version 2.1 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member is Crazeenick
673 guests, 330 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.