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FORUMS Photography Talk by Genre Nature & Landscapes Talk 
Thread started 13 Jan 2015 (Tuesday) 21:00
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Using ND filters for Landscape photography

 
farmer1957
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Jan 13, 2015 21:00 |  #1

Here very soon I will be buying ND filters for my TSE 17mm lens.

Because the TSE 17mm lens takes a special filter adaptor which I already have, I will be buying my ND filters from fotodiox.
At this point I don't know if the filters will be round or square.


Straight up never used a ND filter before ? and have no idea what shade of filter I should buy.
If it makes a difference I will be using a 5Dmk 2.

Help needed
Farmer




  
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Jan 14, 2015 00:17 |  #2

This should not be asked in the "Photo Sharing" section. Please make sure you ask questions in the correct section of the forum. That way it helps keep the place organized. Maybe a mod should move this thread...


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Dlee13
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Jan 15, 2015 22:52 |  #3

farmer1957 wrote in post #17381253 (external link)
Here very soon I will be buying ND filters for my TSE 17mm lens.

Because the TSE 17mm lens takes a special filter adaptor which I already have, I will be buying my ND filters from fotodiox.
At this point I don't know if the filters will be round or square.


Straight up never used a ND filter before ? and have no idea what shade of filter I should buy.
If it makes a difference I will be using a 5Dmk 2.

Help needed
Farmer

It depends on what you want to achieve.

Are you planning on shooting during the day or sunset?

What's your budget?

I personally use a 10 stop B+W ND which words great. If I had the money I'd love to get some Lee ND filters. Graduated ND filters really come in handy too if you have a flat horizon. If you get a normal one like me, you can always bracket your shots


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farmer1957
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Jan 16, 2015 04:58 |  #4

Dlee13 wrote in post #17384791 (external link)
It depends on what you want to achieve.

Are you planning on shooting during the day or sunset?

What's your budget?

I personally use a 10 stop B+W ND which words great. If I had the money I'd love to get some Lee ND filters. Graduated ND filters really come in handy too if you have a flat horizon. If you get a normal one like me, you can always bracket your shots

I would like to do both, shoot during the day and sunset.

Make clouds look puffy, make streams and water falls look like silk.

I was thinking of going with the set of square filters from fotodiox.

Here is one kit I was thinking about.
https://www.fotodioxpr​o.com …rs-nd4-nd8-nd16-nd32.html (external link)
farmer




  
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Dlee13
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Jan 16, 2015 06:24 |  #5

farmer1957 wrote in post #17385002 (external link)
I would like to do both, shoot during the day and sunset.

Make clouds look puffy, make streams and water falls look like silk.

I was thinking of going with the set of square filters from fotodiox.

Here is one kit I was thinking about.
https://www.fotodioxpr​o.com …rs-nd4-nd8-nd16-nd32.html (external link)
farmer

I'd recommend getting a 10 stop then, I love mine and find it weird to do landscapes without it.

The set in the link you posted looks decent, but I'm unfamiliar with the brand. Have you done your research on them? Things you want to look out for is stuff like color casts and how they affect IQ. Build quality is also quite important.

I have a 10 stop B+w and a 2 stop Hoya. They are both the same IQ wise, but the b+w filter is built much better.


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Littlejon ­ Dsgn
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Jan 16, 2015 11:28 |  #6

I made my own 12 stop filter from welding glass, I have figured out how to get close color right out of camera and with a bit of fine tuning in post its amazing. The best part it cost me like $10 total. Now if I had the money I would be picking up a Lee 10 stop. With my diy filter and the polarizing filter I have, it covers everything I would want to do.




  
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Jan 16, 2015 11:43 |  #7

farmer1957 wrote in post #17385002 (external link)
I would like to do both, shoot during the day and sunset.

Make clouds look puffy, make streams and water falls look like silk.

I was thinking of going with the set of square filters from fotodiox.

Here is one kit I was thinking about.
https://www.fotodioxpr​o.com …rs-nd4-nd8-nd16-nd32.html (external link)
farmer

I have the fotodiox setup for my 14-24mm. I used the polarizer and 5 stop ND for this shot:

I had to stop way down and use the expanded ISO (L1.0 on the D810, my exif shows it was ISO 31) to get a 30 second exposure. With my polarizer I had about 6-7 stops of ND. I think it's worth it to have both a 5 and 10 stop ND for different light conditions. The only issue is that those wonderpana filters are HUGE and a drag to have to carry around in your bag.


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Jan 16, 2015 16:39 |  #8

Another thing that's nice about having NDs with you when you travel is they can help make a snapshot into a good shot. Last fall, the wife wanted to take a ride through Vermont. We stopped at the Bennington Battle Monument in the early afternoon, harsh light, not the setup for a great shot. While she went to the restroom, I stuck a Big Lee Stopper (10 stop) on the wide angle lens and pulled a 150 second shot off - the cloud blur made the photo and the other tourists disappeared over that exposure.

Going to FL next month, I've shot alot of sunsets on the beach before, but when the sun is near the horizon, that's the brightest part of the shot....so I just ordered a 3 stop reverse grad to try out. It's darkest in the center, you place that where the sun is and it should help balance the rest of the exposure.

Some people say you don't need grad filters anymore because you can do that in post, but in my experience, you can only go so far (depending on the body you are shooting) and to me, grads are very useful in addition to what you can do in post.


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dkizzle
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Jan 17, 2015 06:38 |  #9

With GND's you are blocking some overexposed areas of the image and allowing RAW file to record better information. Better image out of the camera means less work in post processing.


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farmer1957
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Jan 17, 2015 13:40 |  #10

dkizzle wrote in post #17386612 (external link)
With GND's you are blocking some overexposed areas of the image and allowing RAW file to record better information. Better image out of the camera means less work in post processing.

Yes those thoughts also cross my mind, this why I really don't know what to buy.
I can post of few photos, but I don't consider them professional enough to sale if I was to try.
I got into photography because of my business and most of my photography is of products,
but I enjoy pictures of landscape and automobile, and pets.

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Mar 04, 2015 17:05 |  #11

It sounds like a 10 stop filter [ND110] would suit you the best. I match mine with hard edge 2 stop 0.6 grads.

I've only used B+W 10 stops - Little cast with in camera auto WB. I have a Haida 3 stop too & that's a nice filer also.


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Mar 16, 2015 06:43 |  #12

I use:
10 STOP ND "Big Stopper"
3,6 and a 9ND Filter :).
I brought from link below and the customer service is fantastic

http://www.linhofstudi​o.com …-100mm-series-Filters-Kit (external link)

Hope this helps :)

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May 03, 2015 11:08 |  #13

This is slightly off-topic for this thread, but still relevant. I just acquired a 17-40 for my 6D (pretty new to landscapes), and need to start building a filter system. I have the Cokin P-series, but get pretty bad vignetting even w/ my 24-105. I want a system that I can build, that would also work should I upgrade in the future to the 16-35 lens.

My options are:
- 100mm system such as the Lee
- get an adapter (like 77-82) & purchase 82mm round filters
- something I haven't thought of?

Very curious what others have found re: a no-vignetting solution for wide angle lenses.


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May 04, 2015 13:28 |  #14

neophyte52 wrote in post #17541662 (external link)
This is slightly off-topic for this thread, but still relevant. I just acquired a 17-40 for my 6D (pretty new to landscapes), and need to start building a filter system. I have the Cokin P-series, but get pretty bad vignetting even w/ my 24-105. I want a system that I can build, that would also work should I upgrade in the future to the 16-35 lens.

My options are:
- 100mm system such as the Lee
- get an adapter (like 77-82) & purchase 82mm round filters
- something I haven't thought of?

Very curious what others have found re: a no-vignetting solution for wide angle lenses.

Hello,

I've been shooting landscape photography with the Canon 6D and Canon 17-40 with ND and GND filters for a while now and I recommend the following:

1. 6-stop circular ND (X3 ND or Singh-Ray Slo-Mo - http://www.the-digital-picture.com …utral-Density-Filter.aspx (external link))
2. 3-stop Hard Reverse GND (Singh-Ray - http://www.singh-ray.com …-neutral-density-filters/ (external link))
3. 2-stop Soft GND (Singh-Ray or Lee)

With this setup using ISO 50 - 100 and F8 - F18 typically I like to stay somewhere in the 2:00 - 4:30 minute range for each sunset and sunrise photograph, like the one pictured below.

Don't use square NDs ever or you'll lose sharpness and get light falloff, always use square GNDs because they must be adjusted independently to match the high dynamic range areas of the frame.

Graham


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May 05, 2015 16:24 |  #15

grahamclarkphoto wrote in post #17543248 (external link)
Hello,

I've been shooting landscape photography with the Canon 6D and Canon 17-40 with ND and GND filters for a while now and I recommend the following:

1. 6-stop circular ND (X3 ND or Singh-Ray Slo-Mo - http://www.the-digital-picture.com …utral-Density-Filter.aspx (external link))
2. 3-stop Hard Reverse GND (Singh-Ray - http://www.singh-ray.com …-neutral-density-filters/ (external link))
3. 2-stop Soft GND (Singh-Ray or Lee)

As a founder of Breakthrough Photography you don't use their ND filters?


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Using ND filters for Landscape photography
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