Sorry, I should have been more precise. When I was shooting around the house with one shot, VC was rock solid and razor sharp. I swapped to AI Servo during the game and VC did in fact lock on but since it was in servo it was following the subject instead of locking on a static single point. To be completely honest, this was probably the first time I've shot in AI Servo in over 3 years and I have little experience.
I shot on manual, 1/500th, 2.8 (f4 on some), and auto ISO. Focus was still set to a single point, no zone. That comes from years of having odd behavior with focus on zone, so I'm used to single point. Now, its been years since I've used auto ISO, but I read someplace recently that its good under AI servo so I gave it shot. Ultimately it may have lead to some of the blown out areas of the photo, but keep in mind that today was blisteringly sunny, piecing to be exact. The grass in person appear washed out with all the direct sun we were getting at 10:30am.
I need to work on proper settings for sports, if you guys have any suggestions I am all ears. Should I be zone focusing in servo?
anymore my standards for moving sports is 1/2000 on shutter. For those daytime shots you posted you should of been 2.8 ISO 100-200 and shutter 2000+. If it's bright outdoor I shoot in AV mode and I adjust ISO from usually 200-800 depending on how much light is out there. Today was kinda overcasted so I was hovering around 800. I just stick it on something that keeps my shutter up.
Now... if it's nighttime stuff I shoot in TV mode and I usually adjust anywhere from 1/640 to 1/1000 and I typically try to keep it as high as possible. Then with a quick flip of the wheel I can throw it down to 1/80 range for times when I'm just capturing them standing still type stuff and that gives me a good lower ISO shot of them in the moment type thing.
You really shouldn't be using manual. My technique produces really good results and in AV or TV I can ride the exposure compensation wheel to adjust as needed. For your very bright daytime light I normally run around a -1/3 to -2/3 on the EC only to protect the highlights. Very important and then later in POST I'll bring highlights down to around -50 in Lightroom and then bring up the exposure till the highlights look decent and maybe boost shadows no more than 25.
This protects highlights and keeps things from getting blown out.
Let me repeat... bright harsh sunlite = PROTECT THE HIGHLIGHTS FROM GETTING BLOWN.