Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17588940
you have some CL-360s, right? I would consider canceling the Rove and going with their upcoming 600 w/s light. Pretty sure it works with the existing triggers and/or would work with a 622 direct. I think it is due into the warehouse in the next couple of weeks.

The Godox RS600P are not very good for HSS compared to the Rovelight if that is of interest. And the Rovelights are more powerful in general.

The form factor of the RS600P may be preferable though, depending on what you need.

flowrider wrote in post #17588732
That's pretty much the way I do it.

Using a Phottix Odin with a receiver attached to the Rovelight I have had no problems in testing up to 1/8000 on a Sony A7r. I would think you would better off with this type of approach but you would need a receiver for each Rovelight.

Jim

jmaher wrote in post #17589187
Using a Phottix Odin with a receiver attached to the Rovelight I have had no problems in testing up to 1/8000 on a Sony A7r. I would think you would better off with this type of approach but you would need a receiver for each Rovelight.

Jim

I've used the Flashpoint remote on top of the 622c with good results but have found after using it exclusively in HSS mode for a longer period of time that the included remote is just to flakey. I now use 2 622c's instead. More clutter yes but infinitely more reliable.

Nice thread with lot of info. Got to catch up.

I was out testing the Sony A7II with the Odin TX on camera and a RX plugged into the 360 via 3.5mm cable and Cheetahlight 360 today. The HSS works perfectly. These are SOOC and saved to phone.
Iso 200, f/4.5 1/4000
Light was 6ft away at full power.

Actually I think I used the Sony A7II to test the Rovelight to 1/8000. Sorry for any confusion.

Robsphoto wrote in post #17592270
I was out testing the Sony A7II with the Odin TX on camera and a RX plugged into the 360 via 3.5mm cable and Cheetahlight 360 today. The HSS works perfectly. These are SOOC and saved to phone.
Iso 200, f/4.5 1/4000
Light was 6ft away at full power.

I tried the same thing and had a black area on the frame or a black screen. I may have used an AD180. I'll have to test it again with the 360. However a friend had the same problem.

Jim

The 360 is in HSS and the Odin has the HSS engaged. This is also shot at full power and can synch all the way to 1/8000!!

This setup also works on my Rovelights!

Heya,

So I just got an email from customer service at Adorama, and it it's backordered. Claims 10~14 days before back in stock and shipping. Back to waiting.

Very best,

MalVeauX wrote in post #17592452
Heya,

So I just got an email from customer service at Adorama, and it it's backordered. Claims 10~14 days before back in stock and shipping. Back to waiting.

Very best,

We are expecting a shipment next Monday......

To bad its no one selling/importing them here in Norway

Foto Morgen in Germany sell them, expecting stock from the 13th June
http://www.foto-morgen.de …p4v5js8h6tnik91​67ikiedtv1

HelenOster wrote in post #17592983
We are expecting a shipment next Monday......

That would be heavenly for sure!

Very best,

Heya,

Quick question regarding the RoveLight, as I'm new to this light and awaiting my replacement to ship from Adorama:

If I were to use it in the bright Florida sun, worse time of day, and stop down ambient light and then overpower the sun with the Rovelight at close range, I'm trying to figure out what would be ideal in terms of it's power output behavior compared to stopping down the ambient light. I know the RoveLight's HSS is accomplished with long duration, rather than bursts. So my question becomes:

Is it going to have significantly more power if shot at full power in normal mode (not HSS) and ND filters are used to stop down ambient light (in conjunction with aperture stopping down a little; don't want to shoot at F16, want to stick around F2.8~F4 outside)? Or is it going to be essentially the same, if shot in HSS at full power, at a moderate shutter speed? Or, would it actually be better to go both ways, and combine ND filter and HSS to meet in the middle? Basically looking to find the best way to drop ambient light, and over power the sun with the RoveLight and how best to do it with full power at close range from a large modifier.

Thanks!

Very best,

Good question MaVeauX. I am also very interested in hearing the answers. Pictures to go with it would be awesome. So far I have used Einsteins and I don't find 640ws gives me enough power to bring down ambient if I am shooting full length shots.