A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

ShotByTom wrote in post #17679616
In another thread on this forum someone made a comment that it was "recommended" not to go above 1/8 power on the 360 because it overheats the bulb. He said there are "many stories" indicating that there are many stories of bulbs overheating...I can't find any reference to either of these claims, anyone hear heard of this?

here's what I said in the other thread.

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17679742
i have used my 360 in HSS to take pictures of a bike race where I was asked to get every single racer. I had no problems. I've actually done the same race twice with the same set up. Pretty sure I was at 1/1 but it might have been 1/2, and i took probably 400-500 shots each day, some bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, some not so fast.

also had a recent outdoor portrait session with the sunset as a backdrop where I ran the 360 at 1/1 and 1/2 for a while on a backlit subject. Even If I banged out 10 shots as quickly as it recharged, but then reposed the subject allowing maybe half a minute between shots. The flash body definitely warmed up, but never hit it's thermal cut off point. it was close to 90°F that day.

that said, i'm sure if it was 100°F+ on the shore of that lake with full sun on the flash unit, the bulb/flash would be more likely to overheat. And of course having power to spare is great for a variety of reasons. My main point is that I have never heard of a suggestion to limit the 360 to 1/8 in HSS, and have never done so.

ShotByTom wrote in post #17679616
In another thread on this forum someone made a comment that it was "recommended" not to go above 1/8 power on the 360 because it overheats the bulb. He said there are "many stories" indicating that there are many stories of bulbs overheating...I can't find any reference to either of these claims, anyone hear heard of this?

Nope. I've fired hundreds of shots at 1/4 power (admittedly, not with HSS) and never had an issue. I also believe that CheetahStand runs their units through a test at full power before shipping, to check battery performance; he'd certainly see issues if they existed.

GregDunn wrote in post #17680050
Nope. I've fired hundreds of shots at 1/4 power (admittedly, not with HSS) and never had an issue. I also believe that CheetahStand runs their units through a test at full power before shipping, to check battery performance; he'd certainly see issues if they existed.

BY using Cells II-C for Canon cameras confirmed up to 5D MK3(Cells II-N confirmed to Nikon D4s).
You do not need to push 2 button to do HSS.
Just use Manual on 360 and you will get clean frame to 1/8000 or to camera's max 1/4000.
By using Manual, you can shoot full power continuously for 70 full power pops without any overheat issue....I only confirmed my version not Ama%^# or EB*# or New&%............

Edward,
Thanks for the update and clarification.

What's my options for putting a large octabox on my 360
I bought a lot of the standard fit accesories but would like to go as large as 120cm if it's capable of that.
Thanks

rickmar1905 wrote in post #17680220
What's my options for putting a large octabox on my 360
I bought a lot of the standard fit accesories but would like to go as large as 120cm if it's capable of that.
Thanks

This is one option. I have the RB-90 and it is very easy and fast setup and tear down!

Ricebowl: https://www.cheetahsta​nd.com …ory-s/1973.htm&Click=1197

CheetahStand wrote in post #17680074
BY using Cells II-C for Canon cameras confirmed up to 5D MK3(Cells II-N confirmed to Nikon D4s).
You do not need to push 2 button to do HSS.
Just use Manual on 360 and you will get clean frame to 1/8000 or to camera's max 1/4000.
By using Manual, you can shoot full power continuously for 70 full power pops without any overheat issue....I only confirmed my version not Ama%^# or EB*# or New&%............

Can clarify in what way those non Godox or Cheetahstand versions differs from yours and Godox?

Forgot to check cheetah, mine are godox ad 360 but I remember there all the same now. Thanks.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17680641
Can clarify in what way those non Godox or Cheetahstand versions differs from yours and Godox?

To my knowledge, all of these companies get their hardware from Godox. The difference with Cheetah is that Ed orders small batches of the gear, ensuring he has the latest versions from the original manufacturer. He tests all the pieces when they arrive, and then he guarantees them. He is also transparent about the capabilities and true power of his Cheetah Lights. None of the other companies seem to do any of these things as rigorously and consistently as Ed. Some of them may sometimes be a little cheaper, but none offer this level of trustworthy service. As a working pro photographer, those things are worth a lot more to me than saving a few $$ here or there.

I think Edward needs to brush up his knowledge on how to communicate on the internet/about competitor's.

If you use random characters you're cursing.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17681153
I think Edward needs to brush up his knowledge on how to communicate on the internet/about competitor's.

If you use random characters you're cursing.

But Ed did it correctly. It's common etiquette across the Internet to abbreviate or otherwise disguise a portion of a competitors name or some other unmentionable word in a forum where most of the members know the entity or person being referred to. It's like an insiders joke between members because nearly everyone knows who's being talked about.

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17681153
I think Edward needs to brush up his knowledge on how to communicate on the internet/about competitor's.

If you use random characters you're cursing.

Ulysses01 wrote in post #17681458
But Ed did it correctly. It's common etiquette across the Internet to abbreviate or otherwise disguise a portion of a competitors name or some other unmentionable word in a forum where most of the members know the entity or person being referred to. It's like an insiders joke between members because nearly everyone knows who's being talked about.

While I fully endorse and applaud Marcel's attempt to maintain standards and etiquette, I certainly didn't read Edward's post as defamatory, pejorative or profane in any way. My first reaction was more on the lines of "This post isn't Ed's usual written style, I wonder if someone wrote it for him". Taken within the context and spirit of Edward's post, I read the names as no more than simply avoiding explicitly naming his competitors. It'd perhaps have been more non-confrontational to simply say "... other, similar devices from alternate suppliers", but that's a bit long-winded and more than slightly pedantic.

Come to think of it, if you use random characters then you're deliberately NOT cursing but rather actively implying it!

mmmfotografie wrote in post #17680641
Can clarify in what way those non Godox or Cheetahstand versions differs from yours and Godox?

I did not read this as Edward saying that there was a difference but rather that if there was a difference, then he was speaking only in terms of the Cheetah branded version he sells ("I only confirmed my version"). But, if you are looking for a difference then I would say that the other versions do not have the Cheetah logo which means no Cheetah warranty and service. For those of us in the USA that is a big difference.

So I took my new(ish) 360 out for my first portrait session around town. I'm fairly blown away by how powerful this thing is...I used in an Apollo Orb and the folding beauty-dish modifier made for the light. I think I came up above 1/128 power for only a few shots. Granted, I was shooting between 1.2 and 2.8 for most of those, but that's my style.

I'm thinking I should have gone for the 180 instead of the 360, actually!

The important take away from Edward's post is that the CL-360 or 180, when fired at full power has a long enough burn to work in FP-sync mode all the way to 1/8000 shutter speed. The need for the Cells IIc or n trigger is to tell the camera that you have an FP-sync capable speedlite attached to the hotshoe and if the shutter speed is above X-xync then send an FP-sync signal to the center post before opening the shutter.

If you want to use less power, then you'll have to find some way to reduce the light from full power. One option is H mode on the light, another option is to move the light farther away. Or whatever you choose.

As for the symbols to replace letters, keep in mind that Edward does not like to type emails or forum posts. He was simply looking for the easiest way to say, he knows what his branded lights do, he has no way to control what other do.