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Thread started 05 Sep 2015 (Saturday) 20:13
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Shutter priority - bump ISO?

 
kaitlyn2004
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Sep 05, 2015 20:13 |  #1

I was shooting an airshow today (which I basically never do) and went into Tv, despite normally shooting in Av with a set ISO.

So I was shooting at 1/1250 and Auto ISO + Auto Aperture.

It seemed to be fine bumping up the aperture but never wanted to adjust the ISO above 100. Was it just determining that the aperture never went low enough to also need to bump ISO, or is there other ways I could "influence" the ISO? Bumping to 200, at least, is super easy on a bright sunny day.

Shooting with 5D3 + 100-400 II


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PhotosGuy
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Sep 05, 2015 21:22 |  #2

If it's a "a bright sunny day", I think you're better off using manual settings. You can always switch to Tv if the sun goes behind a cloud.
Keep in mind that you're shooting close to infinity at an air show, so you don't need a lot of depth of field, so the smaller # apertures are OK.
Also, 1/1250 may be good for jets, but for prop aircraft, you'll freeze the prop & it will not look good. Read about prop blur.


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mcoren
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Sep 05, 2015 23:50 |  #3

I can't answer your specific question about how the camera decides when to adjust ISO versus aperture in Tv mode, but I do shoot a couple of air shows each year (three so far this year, with two more coming at the end of September), so I can offer some advice there. I usually find it best to set exposure compensation to overexpose by about 1 stop, maybe more if there are clouds in the sky. Even with a deep blue sky, you're typically shooting up into the sky so some or all of the plane is in shadow. When you add clouds or haze, you're shooting against a fairly bright white background so you want the plane to be properly exposed.

Complicating matters further is that the planes are moving across the sky, so one second the lighting might be perfect, the next second you're shooting toward the sun.

I'll also second what PhotosGuy said about prop aircraft. For prop aircraft, I'll set for Tv with a shutter speed of no faster than 1/200 or 1/250. I find that's typically fast enough to *almost* freeze the propeller so you can see that it's there, but it leaves enough blur to look natural.

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gonzogolf
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Sep 06, 2015 00:00 |  #4

I still need someone to explain the logic behind using an auto mode(av/tv) and auto iso. In that configuration if you need to make adjustments you have 2 floating variables to worry about. Air shows should be shot in manual anyway because of the extra high liklihood of meter bias from the bright sun and shiny planes. You just have too little subject in the metering pattern to get consistent accurate results. Its not as if the light changing once you lock it in manually you are good for a while. And by manual I mean actual manual, not the faux manual where yiu use auto iso.




  
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mcoren
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Sep 06, 2015 01:21 |  #5

gonzogolf wrote in post #17696573 (external link)
I still need someone to explain the logic behind using an auto mode(av/tv) and auto iso. In that configuration if you need to make adjustments you have 2 floating variables to worry about. Air shows should be shot in manual anyway because of the extra high liklihood of meter bias from the bright sun and shiny planes. You just have too little subject in the metering pattern to get consistent accurate results. Its not as if the light changing once you lock it in manually you are good for a while. And by manual I mean actual manual, not the faux manual where yiu use auto iso.

That's an interesting question. To be honest I never thought about it quite like that. I suppose that, in an airshow, even if your light isn't changing very much (the sun over the course of an hour or so), the position of your subject relative to that light is constantly changing. Also where I am in the US Mid-Atlantic region, there are almost always clouds or haze coming and going, so the quality of light can change over a span of less than an hour.

Try it and let us know how it works. :)

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mcoren
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Sep 06, 2015 01:25 |  #6

I couldn't let this thread go without posting at least one airshow pic. I pulled out this pic based on the previous discussion about shutter speeds for propellers, but then I realized it was taken at 1/400, which is more than the 1/200-1/256 which I said above that I normally use! Looking at it now, maybe I should have used 1/250. Still, it gives an idea of the propeller blur that you get with this range of shutter speed.

Mike


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John ­ from ­ PA
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Sep 06, 2015 20:15 |  #7

kaitlyn2004 wrote in post #17696403 (external link)
It seemed to be fine bumping up the aperture but never wanted to adjust the ISO above 100. Shooting with 5D3 + 100-400 II

Can you explain your logic of not wanting to go higher than ISO 100 on a 5DIII?




  
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Sep 06, 2015 20:20 |  #8

John from PA wrote in post #17697477 (external link)
Can you explain your logic of not wanting to go higher than ISO 100 on a 5DIII?

The camera didn't want to go above ISO 100, not the operator.


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Sep 07, 2015 07:18 |  #9

I am not one hundred percent sure here, but I cannot seem to see anything to worry about here. It seems from what the OP has written that the camera was working at ISO 100 at an aperture smaller than maximum. If that is the case why would it choose an ISO above 100? it would only need to stop down even more. Personally I would be more than happy shooting a 100-400 II at f/8 or so. I often actually wish that I could have ISO 50 as a non expanded ISO value, as when shooting aircraft at 1/160, my normal upper limit for propellor driven aircraft I can often find myself shooting stopped down around f/16, helicopters at 1/60 make things even harder, I don't really want to be using ND filters either.

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Shutter priority - bump ISO?
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