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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 26 Sep 2015 (Saturday) 07:08
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Which combination for eclipse

 
Luxx
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Sep 26, 2015 07:08 |  #1

Assuming I can find a location while driving from soccer game to soccer game what combination would you use to take photos of the eclipse?

I have 6D and 7D2 bodies and 300 2.8L IS and 100-400L is lenses. I also have 2xiii and 1.4xiii extenders.

My first thought is 7d2 with 300 2.8 and 2xiii which is what I use to photograph birds but please if you think something would be better let me know.

I will not be able to get a good eclipse with interesting foreground photo...I just can't get away from kid soccer games and homecoming events.

That being said...if anyone else from St. Louis reads this someone should be able to get the eclipse in the arch which could be very cool and I would love to see that photo.




  
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Frodge
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Sep 26, 2015 07:28 |  #2

Of interest to me as well. Also, what is the beat way to meter for the moon in general? I have taken shots of the moon and they've come out pretty good. Just wondering about some tips alond with lens body combo like the op.


_______________
“It's kind of fun to do the impossible.” - Walt Disney.
Equipment: Tokina 12-24mm, Canon 40mm 2.8, Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di, Canon 18-55mm, Canon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 70-300VC / T3I and 60D

  
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mcoren
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Post edited over 3 years ago by mcoren. (2 edits in all)
     
Sep 26, 2015 07:50 |  #3

It really depends on a number of factors.

First: How big do you want the moon to be in your images? The general rule of thumb is that the size of the moon at the camera's focal plane in mm = focal length in mm / 100. So for example, using the 100-400L at 400mm with the 2x extender (total effective focal length = 800mm) will give you an image size of 8 mm. This is roughly half the height of the frame on the 7D2 and roughly 1/3 the height of the frame on the 6D. But bigger isn't necessarily better. You might prefer to use a shorter focal length and crop a bit.

Second: Are you hand-holding, using a tripod, or do you have a tracking mount for astronomy? At totality, the moon is fairly dark, so you will need relatively long exposures. Can you hand hold an 800mm lens for 1/2 second or more with IS? Even on a tripod, at that much magnification you may start to see a little movement (I haven't done the calculations).

One other thing to consider is that at mid-eclipse, the moon will be relatively dark and you may not be able to rely on AF. That also may be true given your lens choice, i.e. the 400mm + 2x I discussed above will be effectively f/11 wide open. AF definitely won't work with that. Can you MF on such a dark, low-contrast image? Here is another example where bigger might not be better.

My recommendation is this: You have two bodies and lots of lens/extender combinations. The progress of the eclipse is relatively slow, taking a couple of hours from start to finish. Try some different combinations. If you find something you like early on, great. Otherwise, don't hesitate to change up lenses and extenders during the entire eclipse.

Here is a link to an article with the eclipse timings: http://www.skyandteles​cope.com …-lunar-eclipse-091420155/ (external link)

Here is an image from last October's lunar eclipse, which either was, or was not, just barely total, depending on who you ask. This was right around mid-eclipse. I used a Canon Rebel T2i (APS-C crop sensor) at the prime focus of a "short tube 80" spotting scope (400mm focal length, f/5) on a camera tripod without tracking. This is resized but uncropped. The exposure was 1/2 second at ISO 400.


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(FYI, the little dot that's just barely visible at about the moon's 10:00 position around 2/3 of the way to the edge of the frame is the planet Uranus).

Have fun and don't stress too much about the "right" lens choice. I hope the eclipse is a good one. Unfortunately we in the mid-atlantic region will be pretty much clouded out. :(

Mike

Canon EOS 7D Mark II, EOS M5, and EOS 100 (film SLR)
A bunch of Canon lenses and a couple of Sigmas
A backpack, a bicycle, and a pair of hiking boots

  
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MalVeauX
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Sep 26, 2015 08:51 |  #4

Heya,

As many pixels on target as you can get. So, longest lens, any TC's you have, on APS-C or APS-H, doesn't matter. But more pixels matters if you want more detail.

Don't worry about settings. I can't stress that enough. You have live view for this reason. I generally start with aperture and ISO. Lately when I'm shooting 600mm at F8, I leave it there. And I adjust ISO to whatever it takes to get a shutter that is enough to prevent blur (from a tripod, so slow is fine). I'm also shooting my 600mm with a 2.0x TC for a 1200mm lens, at F16 often. I throw ISO to 1600 or 3200 from there, without hesitation, and allow for whatever shutter it takes to get a shot without blur (even as slow as 1/30s!).

I will say this, over-exposing the moon slightly is a good idea, and allows for easier clean up of ISO noise. Be ok with this! But don't clean up too much as you want to retain detail of craters. Super moons are easier to expose as they're brighter. Granted, ambient weather conditions matter too.

Use a tripod. You can shoot at a slow shutter. The moon is moving fast, but you can easily get a sharp image at 1/30s no problem with a long lens. I do it at 1200mm on APS-C without a problem.

Example from earlier last week:

1/30s (slow, tripod allows this, with a remote shutter), F16 (I was using a 2.0x TC), ISO 3200 (to get some light back!) on a junk T4i, with a 600mm lens:

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5687/20537644313_9772c93521_z.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xhQN​8K  (external link) IMG_8712 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

How I do it is simple:

Setup on tripod (I use a gimbal with my setup because it's super long and it just is easier for me).
Open Live View.
Turn on VC (stabilization) on my lens.
Compose. Open up all settings to get bright light on the LCD so I can focus it manually.
I manually focus in live view at 10x Magnification on the craters, with VC (stabilization) on to make it simple.
I now adjust my settings based on live view histogram. I over-expose a little (before clipping highlights) to allow for noise control and crater detail.
As long as my shutter is 1/30s or faster, I don't care what it is.
I don't care what aperture & ISO I use, as long as it results in a sharp, well exposed moon.

Very best,

My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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gqllc007
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Sep 28, 2015 07:19 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #5

Here is ISO 100, handheld 1/200 at f/8 with 150-600 Sigma C at 600


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Frodge
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Sep 28, 2015 15:36 as a reply to  @ MalVeauX's post |  #6

Do you mean that when you say "junk t4i"? I only ask because I reaf a lot of your posts and respect your opinions. I have yet an even older t3i that I do not think is junk. In fact I just had it out at the pumpkin patches with my daughter and the pictures came out amazing.


_______________
“It's kind of fun to do the impossible.” - Walt Disney.
Equipment: Tokina 12-24mm, Canon 40mm 2.8, Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di, Canon 18-55mm, Canon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 70-300VC / T3I and 60D

  
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MalVeauX
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Post edited over 3 years ago by MalVeauX. (3 edits in all)
     
Sep 28, 2015 15:41 |  #7

Frodge wrote in post #17725230 (external link)
Do you mean that when you say "junk t4i"? I only ask because I reaf a lot of your posts and respect your opinions. I have yet an even older t3i that I do not think is junk. In fact I just had it out at the pumpkin patches with my daughter and the pictures came out amazing.

It was sarcasm good sir. I love seeing images from a costly $2k~5k camera producing a grainy unsharp moon image (amongst facets, brick walls and random stuff around people's yards & houses) that shows up all the time on POTN. The T3i/T4i are quite good. I don't think they're junk. Again, just sarcasm and a stab at all the Rebel hate that there is around POTN. If people didn't have EXIF or know what equipment made what, there would be way less "gear shaming." I call all of my gear junk, virtually, as it's all inexpensive, used, or 10 years old, etc. The images speak for themselves anyways.

In other sad news, Florida weather was atrocious. Not only cloudy as all get out, it rained to boot. No attempts were possible for me this time. :(

Very best,


My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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Frodge
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Post edited over 3 years ago by Frodge.
     
Sep 28, 2015 16:39 |  #8

Thanks for your reply. I still amazed at the photos I can pull from the t3i, and then as you pointed out, people flame these cameras. Also it was horrid here as well in Staten island. Just a momentary peak through the clouds now and again. I also guess I don't have tons of money, because when innought both my bodies they were both around 7-$850. The t3i came with the kit at the time. Still, not cheap for me..


_______________
“It's kind of fun to do the impossible.” - Walt Disney.
Equipment: Tokina 12-24mm, Canon 40mm 2.8, Tamron 17-50 2.8 XR Di, Canon 18-55mm, Canon 50mm 1.8, Tamron 70-300VC / T3I and 60D

  
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mcoren
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Sep 29, 2015 19:59 |  #9

Well the forecast for the DC area was pretty dismal, but the cloud cover forecast maps for Sunday night showed most of eastern Pennsylvania being clear. Seeing as this would be the last total lunar eclipse visible from the eastern US until January 2019, I decided to take an impromptu road trip to Allentown PA. I found a spot by the side of the road in a little industrial park and waited. It was pretty cloudy and I was just getting ready to give up when suddenly a large break in the clouds drifted across the moon. I got a good opening from about half-way eclipsed until maybe 5-10 minutes past the start of totality. Definitely worth the 7 hour round trip drive, plus gas plus getting home after 2am. :)

Here is one of the last pics I got, just after totality. This was using the same rig as above, an 80mm f/5 "short tube" achromatic refractor spotting scope (focal length = 400 mm). This was 1/4 second at ISO 400. I've cropped it about 50% so it looks larger than the one above from last October but it's really the same size in the uncropped image.


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Clear skies!
Mike

Canon EOS 7D Mark II, EOS M5, and EOS 100 (film SLR)
A bunch of Canon lenses and a couple of Sigmas
A backpack, a bicycle, and a pair of hiking boots

  
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sdipirro
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Oct 01, 2015 14:14 |  #10

I tried an experiment I hadn't tried before with this lunar eclipse. With a full-frame camera, I used my Televue NP101 APO telescope with a 4x Powermate barlow to effectively give me a 2160mm f22 lens, where the full moon just barely fits in the frame. Of course, that introduces other problems. So I did use a telescope mount with a clock drive. While not as sharp as I hoped due to weird problems using Live View to focus, the results were still pretty good. Here's one at totality:

IMAGE: https://sdipirro.smugmug.com/photos/i-XZQgBdS/0/XL/i-XZQgBdS-XL.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://sdipirro.smugm​ug.com …i-XZQgBdS-XL.jpg&lb=1&s=A  (external link) on Smugmug

Cameras: 1DX, 1D4, 20D, 10D, S90, G2
Lenses: Canon 10-22mm, 16-35mm f2.8L II, 24-70mm f2.8L, 70-200mm f2.8L IS, 300mm f2.8L IS, 200mm f2L IS, 50mm f1.4, 50mm f1.2L, 85mm f1.2L, 1.4x TC, 2x TC, 500D macro, Zeiss 21mm
Lighting: 580EX, Elinchrom 600 RX's, D-Lite 4's, ABR800, 74" Eli Octa, 100cm/70cm DOs, Photoflex Medium Octa and reflectors, PW's, Lastolite Hilite, Newton Di400CR bracket

  
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Which combination for eclipse
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