Heya,IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/xhQN8K IMG_8712
As many pixels on target as you can get. So, longest lens, any TC's you have, on APS-C or APS-H, doesn't matter. But more pixels matters if you want more detail.
Don't worry about settings. I can't stress that enough. You have live view for this reason. I generally start with aperture and ISO. Lately when I'm shooting 600mm at F8, I leave it there. And I adjust ISO to whatever it takes to get a shutter that is enough to prevent blur (from a tripod, so slow is fine). I'm also shooting my 600mm with a 2.0x TC for a 1200mm lens, at F16 often. I throw ISO to 1600 or 3200 from there, without hesitation, and allow for whatever shutter it takes to get a shot without blur (even as slow as 1/30s!).
I will say this, over-exposing the moon slightly is a good idea, and allows for easier clean up of ISO noise. Be ok with this! But don't clean up too much as you want to retain detail of craters. Super moons are easier to expose as they're brighter. Granted, ambient weather conditions matter too.
Use a tripod. You can shoot at a slow shutter. The moon is moving fast, but you can easily get a sharp image at 1/30s no problem with a long lens. I do it at 1200mm on APS-C without a problem.
Example from earlier last week:
1/30s (slow, tripod allows this, with a remote shutter), F16 (I was using a 2.0x TC), ISO 3200 (to get some light back!) on a junk T4i, with a 600mm lens:
by Martin Wise
, on Flickr
How I do it is simple:
Setup on tripod (I use a gimbal with my setup because it's super long and it just is easier for me).
Open Live View.
Turn on VC (stabilization) on my lens.
Compose. Open up all settings to get bright light on the LCD so I can focus it manually.
I manually focus in live view at 10x Magnification on the craters, with VC (stabilization) on to make it simple.
I now adjust my settings based on live view histogram. I over-expose a little (before clipping highlights) to allow for noise control and crater detail.
As long as my shutter is 1/30s or faster, I don't care what it is.
I don't care what aperture & ISO I use, as long as it results in a sharp, well exposed moon.