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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Oct 08, 2015 09:05 |  #6136

Dave Jr wrote in post #17737557 (external link)
That, and the very significant price difference.

exactly.

While your argument may be valid

exactly.

i was going to say 6D instead of 7D but figured someone would say "but the 6d has .743291 stops better DR!!!!" :rolleyes:

I'm not at all sure I would ever use the 360 with ETTL. Hell, i would say that i use my 580EXII in ETTL way less than half the time it is powered up. Having choices is great for the end user and is a great way for the manufacturer to get (and keep) people into their system.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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mmmfotografie
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Oct 08, 2015 10:02 |  #6137

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17737483 (external link)
the 5D3 does everything that the 7D did, yet they ran them side by side for years.
How many different flashes does Yongnou sell?
How many different Toyota trucks are available?

clearly this happens with thousands of products across many diverse product lines and categories. If an all manual 360 can sell for 350 bucks and a ETTL with built in receiver can sell for 550 it often makes sense to do so.

Bliep -?




  
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Latebraking
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Post edited over 2 years ago by Latebraking. (2 edits in all)
     
Oct 08, 2015 22:33 |  #6138

Hello all, I have decided to journey beyond the world of canon speed lights, and have followed this thread. I'm mainly a motorsports shooter, but have done shoots in many other genres. Many times, I've come up a bit short in lighting power with the speedlights (not race track action - no flash used there). I see the cheetah stand products as a way to get studio strobe power out on location, and to get better, professional results in a studio setting.

I'd like to be able to carry this equipment by motorcycle, if possible. The light stands probably would pose a problem on the front....

Currently, my camera bodies are 5D3, and 7D2, lenses are 16-35, 24-70, 70-200 - all f2.8, and 100-400 gen 2. I may soon replace the 5D3 with the 1DX, depending on funds,

The part I'm having trouble with this is deciding what I actually need to do the job at hand. I was on the phone today with Ed, and although he tried to help with the gear list, in the end, he said there's no real way to give solid direction without knowing all the variables. _ I _ don't even know all the variables, so I thought I'd consult the brain trust here to get feedback on your experiences and your kit's inventory.

I'm not yet making a living with my equipment, but do have an eye in that direction, so I'm wanting to avoid buying equipment twice, e.g., buying the pro level gear on the second go 'round.

I'm trying to avoid buying what I don't need, while not coming up short, either.

Thanks to anyone who can provide insight.

Willy


1DX MKII, 7DMKII gripped, 16-35 f2.8L ISII, 24-70 f2.8L ISII, 70-200 f2.8L ISII, 2x extender, 50mm f1.8, 100-400 f3.5-5.6 ISII (2) 600 EX-RTs, ST-E3-RT

  
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Phil ­ V
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Oct 09, 2015 02:25 |  #6139

Latebraking wrote in post #17738361 (external link)
Hello all, I have decided to journey beyond the world of canon speed lights, and have followed this thread. I'm mainly a motorsports shooter, but have done shoots in many other genres. Many times, I've come up a bit short in lighting power with the speedlights (not race track action - no flash used there). I see the cheetah stand products as a way to get studio strobe power out on location, and to get better, professional results in a studio setting.

I'd like to be able to carry this equipment by motorcycle, if possible. The light stands probably would pose a problem on the front....

Currently, my camera bodies are 5D3, and 7D2, lenses are 16-35, 24-70, 70-200 - all f2.8, and 100-400 gen 2. I may soon replace the 5D3 with the 1DX, depending on funds,

The part I'm having trouble with this is deciding what I actually need to do the job at hand. I was on the phone today with Ed, and although he tried to help with the gear list, in the end, he said there's no real way to give solid direction without knowing all the variables. _ I _ don't even know all the variables, so I thought I'd consult the brain trust here to get feedback on your experiences and your kit's inventory.

I'm not yet making a living with my equipment, but do have an eye in that direction, so I'm wanting to avoid buying equipment twice, e.g., buying the pro level gear on the second go 'round.

I'm trying to avoid buying what I don't need, while not coming up short, either.

Thanks to anyone who can provide insight.

Willy

You'll see the Neewer / Godox pop up softbox recommended, the one with the s fit bracket, it's a perfect partner for the AD360.

My personal tip though is to use a tripod as a light stand outdoors, mine is great, has a wide footprint to help with stability, also a hook on the bottom of the column which I can hang my bag off or use to attach lines to tie it down.


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Drk ­ Orange
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Oct 09, 2015 03:01 |  #6140

Phil V wrote in post #17738502 (external link)
My personal tip though is to use a tripod as a light stand outdoors, mine is great, has a wide footprint to help with stability, also a hook on the bottom of the column which I can hang my bag off or use to attach lines to tie it down.

I do that too, only because I am too cheap to buy a light stand. :)

As for what you need, I would say a single 360 with the standard reflector by itself would be easily transported by motorcycle. Sure, modifiers are nice, but not practical when on a bike.

Once you have played with it for a bit, you can then decide if you need an additional 360 or a slightly more powerful one.




  
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travisvwright
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Oct 09, 2015 07:01 |  #6141

Drk Orange wrote in post #17738514 (external link)
I do that too, only because I am too cheap to buy a light stand. :)

As for what you need, I would say a single 360 with the standard reflector by itself would be easily transported by motorcycle. Sure, modifiers are nice, but not practical when on a bike.

Once you have played with it for a bit, you can then decide if you need an additional 360 or a slightly more powerful one.

This is a bit shallow of a suggestion for those of us unfamiliar with the system. A reflector is not sufficient to even make the 360 flash so there needs to be a bit more in the list. A 360 gives poor results without a battery. It will also not be telekinetic enough to auto fire when your camera is near it. There are a lot of pieces needed that people already familiar with the system just assume.


I come here for your expert opinion. Please do not hesitate to critique or edit.
70D, T3i, Tamron 28-75 2.8, Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC, Canon 50 1.4, Canon 100 2.8 Macro, Canon 85 1.8, Canon 10-18 4.5 STM

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Phil ­ V
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Post edited over 2 years ago by Phil V. (2 edits in all)
     
Oct 09, 2015 14:21 |  #6142

Just to add then, the Godox FT16 radio trigger is very good and allows control of the AD360, but if you want HSS then you'll need HSS triggers, the YN622 is a cheap and reliable option.

The 360 needs a battery pack, but comes with one generally, an optional Y connector allows quicker recycling.


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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Oct 09, 2015 15:14 |  #6143

travisvwright wrote in post #17738659 (external link)
This is a bit shallow of a suggestion for those of us unfamiliar with the system. A reflector is not sufficient to even make the 360 flash so there needs to be a bit more in the list. A 360 gives poor results without a battery. It will also not be telekinetic enough to auto fire when your camera is near it. There are a lot of pieces needed that people already familiar with the system just assume.

dude, you forgot to mention a power cord!! i mean how could you?!? gah.

lol

latebraking, i think the 360 is a great next step for you. The standard 5" reflector will give you a nice strong light but it will be hard light like your speedlight. If you stick the light in a small softbox you will lose some power. The Cheetah stand 24' qbox packs up small, i think the pouch is about 8-10 inches diameter and maybe three inches thick. You can use it without the inner and outer diffuser to get a little more power and a much larger/softer light source. You will also need a bracket to hold the flash and softbox.

this is the smallest, lightest bracket i know about: https://www.cheetahsta​nd.com/product-p/bkts.htm (external link)

Ed also has a few larger "hard" reflectors. The 7 inch and also the 11 inch Colt 45. Again, these will be very efficient.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Latebraking
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Post edited over 2 years ago by Latebraking.
     
Oct 09, 2015 21:39 |  #6144

Thanks for all the replies so far! I want to cull as much information from the group as possible, so please keep them coming!

So far cheetah hasn't been mentioned as far as lights, is there an advantage of Godox over the cheetah lights? If I shoot during the day, on location, will the flash(es) have enough power to balance the lighting? I've read that some here use ND filters to get around using HSS.

Besides the lights themselves, what about reflectors / modifiers / triggers, & the needed mounting systems for them, etc.?

What sort of setups have you been using to good effect?


1DX MKII, 7DMKII gripped, 16-35 f2.8L ISII, 24-70 f2.8L ISII, 70-200 f2.8L ISII, 2x extender, 50mm f1.8, 100-400 f3.5-5.6 ISII (2) 600 EX-RTs, ST-E3-RT

  
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Phil ­ V
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Oct 10, 2015 02:58 |  #6145

Latebraking wrote in post #17739514 (external link)
Thanks for all the replies so far! I want to cull as much information from the group as possible, so please keep them coming!

So far cheetah hasn't been mentioned as far as lights, is there an advantage of Godox over the cheetah lights? If I shoot during the day, on location, will the flash(es) have enough power to balance the lighting? I've read that some here use ND filters to get around using HSS.

Besides the lights themselves, what about reflectors / modifiers / triggers, & the needed mounting systems for them, etc.?

What sort of setups have you been using to good effect?

Sorry...
The Cheetahstand lights are rebranded Godox, if you're in the US that's the recommended way to buy them (from Ed for great customer service).
Several members have mentioned the softbox and bracket, I called it Neewer/Godox, but someone else showed the Cheetahstand branded version. It folds up small and works great.
I've also mentioned the trigger made for the light, it's advantage it's limitation and how to get round it (using Yongnuo for HSS).
I've no idea what Eds standard packaged box contains, but my Godox one had the battery and cable and a std reflector.
The attached image is shot with:
AD360 with the softbox and s fit bracket atop a tripod triggered by the YN622tx exactly as described above more than once. :)


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Ulysses01
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Oct 10, 2015 03:01 |  #6146

Latebraking wrote in post #17739514 (external link)
So far cheetah hasn't been mentioned as far as lights, is there an advantage of Godox over the cheetah lights? If I shoot during the day, on location, will the flash(es) have enough power to balance the lighting? I've read that some here use ND filters to get around using HSS.

Besides the lights themselves, what about reflectors / modifiers / triggers, & the needed mounting systems for them, etc.?

What sort of setups have you been using to good effect?

This entire thread was built upon the introduction of and tips for using the Godox bare bulb flash. Godox is the manufacturer. And several companies place their own branding on the lights manufactured by Godox. CheetahStand is one of the most respected brands for their excellent service and reputation. But otherwise, the lights sold under different names are exactly the same, but perhaps without the same excellent service.

Yes, these flashes have plenty of power, especially if you're close enough and use the right modifier for the situation at hand.

While this thread is massive, you can perform a search on this thread or in this forum to find awesome existing input on things like modifiers, reflectors, ND filters versus HSS, etc. Your questions are rather general and open-ended, so try the search first, which will help you come up with more specific questions. :-)




  
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tongki
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Oct 10, 2015 06:38 |  #6147

travisvwright wrote in post #17738659 (external link)
A 360 gives poor results without a battery.
It will also not be telekinetic enough to auto fire when your camera is near it.

I am interested,
Where can I bought this "telekinetic flash system" ?

Also,
I dreamed of a flash that can fly around me like a drone and can back to it's base for recharging

too many Zoloft I take within this week cause this


EOS 70D x 2 units + EOS 7D mark II x3 units
Newton FR3, Newton modified bracket, EF 17-40mm x4,EF 24-70mm f/2.8 x2, EF 70-200mm f/2.8 x2
Quantum Trio x2, T5D-R x1 + FW7Q x1, CoPilot x2, Godox AD-180 x5
Propac PB960 head x12, PB960 battery x10
sorry, no stupid speedlite from Canon !

  
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mmmfotografie
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Oct 10, 2015 06:43 as a reply to  @ tongki's post |  #6148

Cameras can already fly so you can hold flash on a stick, attached to it your smartphone which gives you control and review.




  
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Ulysses01
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Post edited over 2 years ago by Ulysses01.
     
Oct 10, 2015 07:38 |  #6149

tongki wrote in post #17739854 (external link)
I dreamed of a flash that can fly around me like a drone and can back to it's base for recharging

We're already nearing that point. ;-)a
Drone lighting could be coming soon to your studio (external link)

But until this system arrives, a few crazy people are doing this:




  
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Oct 10, 2015 08:16 as a reply to  @ Phil V's post |  #6150

I would recommend getting the Godox Cells II triggers instead of the YN 622's for HSS. The Cells II triggers have been more reliable and are MUCH easier to use than the YN 622's.


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