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Thread started 23 Oct 2015 (Friday) 10:29
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Hockey - Looking for a little exposure input

 
Kags1969
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Oct 23, 2015 10:29 |  #1

I took a few pics for a friend who plays on UT's Hockey team and was hoping for a little input on the exposure of my pics. I was also hoping someone could help me understand the histogram with relation to these pics. When I processed through lightroom on "Auto," some of the pics looked blown out, but when I come back a day later, some of the images seem too dim. Just a newbie looking for some sage advice. Thanks, Chris

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Kags1969
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Post edited over 4 years ago by Kags1969.
     
Oct 23, 2015 10:31 |  #2

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PhotosGuy
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Oct 23, 2015 11:20 |  #3

Kags1969 wrote in post #17757195 (external link)
When I processed through lightroom on "Auto," some of the pics looked blown out, but when I come back a day later, some of the images seem too dim.

The same images? In the same room with the same ambient lighting?

In this one, there's a glare on the ice & the histogram is far from the right side. I'd have pushed that glare more toward RGB 240, 240, 240, so the histogram was more to the right.

When I processed through lightroom on "Auto,"

Personally, I don't like any "Auto", & it looks like you were shooting in some auto mode because your ISO is all over the place.
I realize that the light in the building varies across the ice, but I prefer RAW, which gives you a lot of latitude in PP before your camera throws a lot of image data away when it converts to jpg. For instance, look at: Why I love RAW - '53 Ford Sunliner
So in your situation, I would have taken a shot of the ice in some mode, put those settings in Manual, reshot at a higher ISO & chimped the histogram more toward the right side.

I'd drop your shutter speed down a bit, too. Look at this post: https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?p=6416835


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Post edited over 4 years ago by TeamSpeed. (4 edits in all)
     
Oct 23, 2015 11:50 |  #4

- Shoot looser and crop later
- Push the exposure so that the ice is very near the right side of the histogram. If you were in Manual mode with auto-ISO turned on, turn your exposure compensation up to around 2/3 or so. You may even need 1 stop?
- Don't use your LCD previewing as an indicator of how exposed your shot is
- Turn on the viewfinder level indicator and use that when shooting, as to help keep your rink more level
- I think your shutter speed is fine. I shoot basketball at 1/2000, and hockey moves faster than basketball at many points in the game. I have found that 1/1600 works okay, but there are times during action that isn't enough to stop action.

Per the reply above:

The linked post says "prefer to be above 1/500 or 1/640", and 1/1600 is definitely faster than that. Was that comment to slow the shutter down, or speed it up? ???


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Kags1969
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Post edited over 4 years ago by Kags1969. (2 edits in all)
     
Oct 23, 2015 12:32 |  #5

This was all in the same room, just in different spots around the rink.

I am shooting Manual with Auto ISO in RAW then using the "Auto" function in LR to convert to jpgs. I manually control the shutter speed and Fstop. I was shooting mostly 2.8 - 4.0 just to see the differences in photos and varied shutter speed ~1/1000-1600, I did try and shoot slower but was getting unwanted blur. I used a custom white balance using the ice.

So I am hearing that I need to turn my exposure comp up a little as if I were overexposing the images? I am finding that in LR when I ask the program to "Auto" adjust the image, I end up turning down the exposure correction and adding a bit of saturation. I would say that the end result is that I am bumping exposure 1/2-3/4 of a stop to get to something that I feel is not overexposed.

I appreciate the input and keep it coming.

Chris


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Oct 23, 2015 14:34 |  #6

Kags1969 wrote in post #17757368 (external link)
I am shooting Manual with Auto ISO in RAW...

"Auto ISO" in manual is not Manual from the standpoint of controlling all the parameters. It's more like "AutoAnything" since the geek back at Canon is guestimating what the camera is pointed at.
A white jersey vs a black jersey, both at the same exact place on the ice in the same exact light will give you two very different exposures.
"Auto" adjust in LR just compounds the problem.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17757311 (external link)
Per the reply above:
The linked post says "prefer to be above 1/500 or 1/640", and 1/1600 is definitely faster than that. Was that comment to slow the shutter down, or speed it up? ???

Comment was to slow it dowm. 1/1000 should be adequate. Primoz shoots for publication & so a "swinging stick should be sharp not blurred". Here, shooting for a friend, I don't think that's as big a factor, & a bit of blur in the puck or stick would just add to the feeling of the image. And he would gain a 1/2 stop of light.


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Oct 23, 2015 18:43 |  #7

No way man, you gotta get it as close to good as you can in camera, then crop if needed (usually is with sports anyway)!!!

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17757311 (external link)
- Shoot looser and crop later




  
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Oct 23, 2015 22:02 |  #8

Jakaph1 wrote in post #17757753 (external link)
No way man, you gotta get it as close to good as you can in camera, then crop if needed (usually is with sports anyway)!!!


I second this. When I shoot sports I like to be nice and tight when I shoot. I try to do as little of cropping as possible. Especially when you are getting in to higher ISO's such as shooting Ice hockey. Then rink can be a real PITA shooting in. I shot Ice hockey at 1/500 fine. Is that going to freeze a swinging stick? No, but that can make a picture look cool.

I would like to see more you get to shoot. Hopefully you can get out there again soon.

Also when you are out there shooting don't be scared to push that ISO even higher. My brother shot night time soccer with his 7D mark II at ISO 16,000 and still got some usable pics. Just make sure you are exposing well so you don't have to adjust that in post.


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Oct 26, 2015 16:11 |  #9

I also shoot hockey with a 7D mark ii with a 70-200MM 2.8. After a couple of seasons and trial and error I have settled in on the following manual settings shooting through the glass. ISO 5000, 1/800, 2.8 with AWB. The higher ISO cleans up well in light room. I am able to bump the SS to 1/1000 over the glass in some rinks. The exposure meter on the camera usually indicates about 2 stops to the right but they are never overexposed.

As said earlier, fill the lens with the image you want. Cropping with high ISO in bad lighting leads to lousy images. I crop very little and really try to use the lens. Hope this helps. Here are a couple examples from this season

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Oct 27, 2015 04:43 |  #10

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Here's my 2 cents worth.
Expose to the right, it's better to pull the exposure back in post than push it
Fill the frame as much as possible.
Custom white balance off the ice
Shoot in manual

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Oct 27, 2015 10:32 |  #11

Thanks for the input guys. I will try setting the ISO manually next go around and see how it changes the images I get! I have to admit that I am used to running Auto ISO and using the shutter speed to get it into an acceptable range...


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Oct 27, 2015 10:48 |  #12

Kags1969 wrote in post #17762004 (external link)
Thanks for the input guys. I will try setting the ISO manually next go around and see how it changes the images I get!

It can't hurt, right? And if you shoot in RAW, any variation from the rink lighting should be easy to correct without adding noise if you're pushing exposure to the right. Good luck!


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Oct 27, 2015 10:50 |  #13

Kags1969 wrote in post #17762004 (external link)
Thanks for the input guys. I will try setting the ISO manually next go around and see how it changes the images I get! I have to admit that I am used to running Auto ISO and using the shutter speed to get it into an acceptable range...

But shooting hockey is perhaps the worst environment for auto anything. Auto modes rely on the camera's reflective metering system. Reflective metering is unreliable with very white or very dark subjects. So you have dark jerseys on white ice. So the camera will give you one reading with a shots that's filled with a player in a dark Jersey filling the frame and another if the frame is mostly ice even though the light is the same for each shot. While you might have slightly darker spots in the corners of the rink you will still get more reliable exposures by using manual than playing the meter lottery.




  
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Oct 30, 2015 19:51 as a reply to  @ TeamSpeed's post |  #14

The note about adding 1 stop is interesting. I just started shooting my son playing hockey, Canon 7D with Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L non-is, ISO 1000, shutter about 1/250 and found the shots to be slightly dark. I added a full stop and pictures were more where I wanted them to be. I need to play with the ISO and shutter speed a bit but maybe adding one stop to your shots is where you need to be...


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Oct 30, 2015 20:43 as a reply to  @ tmwhitm's post |  #15

Don't be afraid to crank up your ISO. Unless the lighting is incredible you are set very low. When I was dialing in my settings I used to shoot practices. Play around and see what you can do in post processing. Have fun




  
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Hockey - Looking for a little exposure input
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