The quadra killer AKA Cheetahstand CL-600

Sweet!

Very nice

abbadon31 wrote in post #17725849
CheetahStand colt 45 / strip boxes/ pros brackets / cl-360's / cl-600's / 24" umbrella

Scott, did you note any issues at all with consistency of the lights' output with this multi-exposure set?

Greater consistency always makes for easier compositing with this type of image creation. Nicely done!

The only issue I had was not moving the main light to light higher and lower subjects. Using the Colt 45 its a more of a spot and i couldn't cover the whole area with it.
If your asking did I have color shift or different exposures then that would be a NO.

Yamaha YSR50 Shoot CheetahStand colt 45 / strip boxes/ pros brackets / cl-360's / cl-600's / 24" umbrella

^^^t
One of your best posted images.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17727242
The only issue I had was not moving the main light to light higher and lower subjects. Using the Colt 45 its a more of a spot and i couldn't cover the whole area with it.
If your asking did I have color shift or different exposures then that would be a NO.

Thank you! And YES, I was asking about potential color shift and exposure consistency between these multiple exposures. That's one big thing I've really come to appreciate about the Cheetah Lights (the CL-360 in particular... I don't have enough experience with the CL-600 just yet because I don't take it out too often). Their consistency across different power levels, as well as shot-to-shot consistency is really great. They may not be the end-all and be-all lights for absolutely every occasion. But man, they really are great reliable workhorses, at least for me.

abbadon31 wrote in post #17728452
Yamaha YSR50 Shoot CheetahStand colt 45 / strip boxes/ pros brackets / cl-360's / cl-600's / 24" umbrella

One more quick question: If the Colt 45 is operating more like a spot, then what are the strip boxes for? Are they lighting the model's body? or are they more for putting light across the motorcycle in this series?

Also, would I be correct in assuming you were utilizing the CL-600 with the Colt 45, and the CL-360 in the strip boxes?

Light distribution is a real art. Takes time to learn. I've got experience, a good eye, and lots of patience with our pro work, but I'm rarely in a studio situation like this as most of our work is actually on location.

Rim lights

Ulysses01 wrote in post #17730310
Thank you! And YES, I was asking about potential color shift and exposure consistency between these multiple exposures. That's one big thing I've really come to appreciate about the Cheetah Lights (the CL-360 in particular... I don't have enough experience with the CL-600 just yet because I don't take it out too often). Their consistency across different power levels, as well as shot-to-shot consistency is really great. They may not be the end-all and be-all lights for absolutely every occasion. But man, they really are great reliable workhorses, at least for me.

One more quick question: If the Colt 45 is operating more like a spot, then what are the strip boxes for? Are they lighting the model's body? or are they more for putting light across the motorcycle in this series?

Also, would I be correct in assuming you were utilizing the CL-600 with the Colt 45, and the CL-360 in the strip boxes?

Light distribution is a real art. Takes time to learn. I've got experience, a good eye, and lots of patience with our pro work, but I'm rarely in a studio situation like this as most of our work is actually on location.

Strips are used to light the backdrop and keep the light from over spilling onto the model
24" umbrella was use for fill

Shows ya what I know

BTW, 2 Fotodiox Ez-Pro 56X12 strips work great for background lighting.

Robsphoto wrote in post #17680479
1. Yes, it would be impossible to connect the TX to the CL-600......

2. Never tried firing at any power level other than full. I will try this and with the Phottix Mitros + on camera tomorrow as I will be home alone!!

Rob, I'm just checking in once again to see if this worked well for you, your Sony camera, and your Odins — or alternately your Phottix Mitros+.

Thanks for any feedback you might have. I haven't yet purchased a Sony camera, but they're in the running pending how well they play along with my Cheetah Lights while I wait for Phottix to update the Indra500 with Sony compatibility.

Ulysses01 wrote in post #17764096
Rob, I'm just checking in once again to see if this worked well for you, your Sony camera, and your Odins — or alternately your Phottix Mitros+.

Thanks for any feedback you might have. I haven't yet purchased a Sony camera, but they're in the running pending how well they play along with my Cheetah Lights while I wait for Phottix to update the Indra500 with Sony compatibility.

Works perfectly at full and lower power. I do not use the cheetah system with my Phoenix although it probably would work in slave and with the cable method. I have tested the CL-600 with the A7II, A7s and A6000. The CL180, CL360 and the v850 are my all time favorites to use with the Sony cameras. Never had any issues with these flash!!

Robsphoto wrote in post #17764813
Works perfectly at full and lower power. I do not use the cheetah system with my Phoenix although it probably would work in slave and with the cable method. I have tested the CL-600 with the A7II, A7s and A6000. The CL180, CL360 and the v850 are my all time favorites to use with the Sony cameras. Never had any issues with these flash!!

Thanks for getting back and providing that feedback, Rob! Much appreciated. I thought you'd dropped out of this forum for a while, so I was glad to see you post again the other day.

I totally agree. Although I've been getting a lot of use out of the Phottix Indra500 lights, I'm still a very big fan of the Cheetah Lights, particularly with a mirrorless system. While some are disappointed with a lack of lots of TTL options for Sony, Fuji or Olympus systems, I'm happily using the manual Cheetah Lights. I like the fact that they're system-agnostic and can be used on virtually any camera system.

I don't know if this will be the case with the upcoming AD-360 II (the Canon and Nikon versions with TTL and HSS).

This thread has gone silent. Is there something wrong or issues with this strobe? Is it not worth getting? What's the deal?

This flash existed in a simpler version for years. When this version came to market is was not free from troubles and that delayed it all by more than a year. The world moved on and a new star stole the show. Next years there will be a beefed up version of the AD360 in the current used setup of combining head and power cell.