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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 26 Jan 2013 (Saturday) 10:20
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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives

 
AnnieMacD
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Oct 29, 2015 09:02 |  #6181

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17764303 (external link)
one of these:

http://www.mscdirect.c​om …3=7867724&CS_01​0=80243306 (external link)

you can get them at any hardware store, they don't cost nearly as much as the one in the link above.

use it all the time, not just when it's windy, you don't want to put stress on the cord/plug.

Thanks. I have been hanging the battery pack from the provided strap to the light stand so it was taking the weight. I'll try these - they look like a good solution.


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OceanRipple*
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Oct 29, 2015 09:07 |  #6182

re the Orbis & Roundflash ring adapters mentioned above - I'd be wary of using these with a 360, unless anybody is happy to guarantee their safety with these devices.

They were both designed with standard fresnel lensed 58 to 60 GN (m) Speedlites in mind - whereas the 360 generates much more heat. Also, while in nearly every other circumstance, the bare bulb output is an advantage, in either a Roundflash or an Orbis, it probably is not.

Anyone have extensive experience of running a 360 in either of these . . . (& survived!) . . . ?




  
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Left ­ Handed ­ Brisket
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Oct 29, 2015 09:38 |  #6183

AnnieMacD wrote in post #17764332 (external link)
Thanks. I have been hanging the battery pack from the provided strap to the light stand so it was taking the weight. I'll try these - they look like a good solution.

i totally forgot those straps were included :lol

have never once attached them to the battery.


PSA: The above post may contain sarcasm, reply at your own risk | Not in gear database: Auto Sears 50mm 2.0 / 3x CL-360, Nikon SB-28, SunPak auto 322 D, Minolta 20

  
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Ulysses01
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Oct 29, 2015 23:51 |  #6184

AnnieMacD wrote in post #17764332 (external link)
Thanks. I have been hanging the battery pack from the provided strap to the light stand so it was taking the weight. I'll try these - they look like a good solution.

I'm not a fan of the clamp method. But it's definitely an inexpensive and relatively secure way to keep everything together.

Personally, I prefer the Battery Hook (external link) sold on the CheetahStand website (maybe this was referred to a few pages ago... not sure). It works well for the intended use and looks decent when set up:


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GregDunn
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Oct 30, 2015 10:35 |  #6185

Ulysses01 wrote in post #17765307 (external link)
I'm not a fan of the clamp method. But it's definitely an inexpensive and relatively secure way to keep everything together.

Personally, I prefer the Battery Hook (external link) sold on the CheetahStand website (maybe this was referred to a few pages ago... not sure). It works well for the intended use and looks decent when set up:

These work well - that battery will not come loose unless the stand collapses. :lol: You're also not at the mercy of wherever the knob or support happens to be located on the stand; you can set the position wherever it works, and have a lower center of gravity.


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AnnieMacD
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Oct 30, 2015 11:59 |  #6186

Left Handed Brisket wrote in post #17764364 (external link)
i totally forgot those straps were included :lol

have never once attached them to the battery.


GregDunn wrote in post #17765763 (external link)
These work well - that battery will not come loose unless the stand collapses. :lol: You're also not at the mercy of wherever the knob or support happens to be located on the stand; you can set the position wherever it works, and have a lower center of gravity.


Ulysses01 wrote in post #17765307 (external link)
I'm not a fan of the clamp method. But it's definitely an inexpensive and relatively secure way to keep everything together.

Personally, I prefer the Battery Hook (external link) sold on the CheetahStand website (maybe this was referred to a few pages ago... not sure). It works well for the intended use and looks decent when set up:

thumbnail
Hosted photo: posted by Ulysses01 in
./showthread.php?p=177​65307&i=i93116687
forum: Flash and Studio Lighting

Thanks - that looks even more secure. I'm in the UK but have found them on ebay. Just what I'm looking for.


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agv8or
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Post edited over 4 years ago by agv8or. (2 edits in all)
     
Oct 30, 2015 13:56 as a reply to  @ AnnieMacD's post |  #6187

A much cheaper alternative for attaching batteries with belt clips to light stands. http://www.amazon.com …+Metal+Heavy+Du​ty+C+Clamp (external link)


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AnnieMacD
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Oct 30, 2015 14:30 |  #6188

agv8or wrote in post #17765990 (external link)
A much cheaper alternative for attaching batteries with belt clips to light stands. http://www.amazon.com …+Metal+Heavy+Du​ty+C+Clamp (external link)

They don't seem to have them on Amazon UK. I've already ordered the battery hook from Ebay - it wasn't too expensive. Thanks for the info, though.


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Ulysses01
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Oct 31, 2015 22:21 |  #6189

GregDunn wrote in post #17765763 (external link)
These work well - that battery will not come loose unless the stand collapses. :lol: You're also not at the mercy of wherever the knob or support happens to be located on the stand; you can set the position wherever it works, and have a lower center of gravity.

Yeah, this battery hook works really well. On the one hand, i wish I didn't need to remember an extra component or take the time to attach it to the light stand. But on the other hand, I prefer this method (with this batter) than simply hanging the battery from its strap on one of the light stand knobs. They serve a purpose with this system. And as a working photographer, I don't mind the $25 to have this easy management accessory.

The only minor annoyance I have with it is that the end that contacts the light stand (opposite the screw knob) has a thin rubber cover, which frequently tends to pop off too easily. Not a real biggie. But that rubber probably helps prevent any slippage of the hook on the light stand. So I'd rather not lose that rubber cover due to it falling off.




  
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AnnieMacD
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Nov 01, 2015 05:53 |  #6190

Ulysses01 wrote in post #17767480 (external link)
Yeah, this battery hook works really well. On the one hand, i wish I didn't need to remember an extra component or take the time to attach it to the light stand. But on the other hand, I prefer this method (with this batter) than simply hanging the battery from its strap on one of the light stand knobs. They serve a purpose with this system. And as a working photographer, I don't mind the $25 to have this easy management accessory.

The only minor annoyance I have with it is that the end that contacts the light stand (opposite the screw knob) has a thin rubber cover, which frequently tends to pop off too easily. Not a real biggie. But that rubber probably helps prevent any slippage of the hook on the light stand. So I'd rather not lose that rubber cover due to it falling off.

Thanks for the tip. Once I'd ordered mine via ebay I realized they are being shipped from China, so I may have to wait a while.


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DisrupTer911
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Nov 01, 2015 13:41 |  #6191

This is were I'm a bit lost,

I have the cells-2c and the ft-16.

My ad360 lights have the HS combo button press.

When I use those buttons, paired with ft-16, I get between 1/1-1/8 power options.
Does this allow me to shoot above 1.200th? How fast can I go? 1/2000? 1/3200? 1/8000?

With the cells-2c, do I need to press the button combo too get into hss on the flash?

Does the cells-2c require 1/1 power or can I go lower? Like 1/16th?
Or does it need 1/1 power to fill the frame above 1/200th? What about 1/3200, still need full power?

The cells-2c has 5 pins on the bottom so I'm assuming its true HSS like a canon flash?

Echo63 wrote in post #17757220 (external link)
FT16 is a wireless transmitter that allows remote power control of compatible flashes (still manual mode, but you can do it from the transmitter, you dont need to walk to the flash each time)
Cells2 is a HSS compatible trigger that doesnt have remote power control.
Both work side by side, so you can stick the Cells2 in the hotshoe and have HSS, and the FT16 in your pocket to control the power output (if it were me i would actually velcro them together)


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mmmfotografie
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Nov 01, 2015 19:05 as a reply to  @ DisrupTer911's post |  #6192

When you want to go lower with the power than 1/1 then you have to activate the HSS on the flash otherwise you will end with black bars in the picture. A limitation of activating HSS on the flash that it will limit the amount of pictures taken in a short period of time. You will force you to have take brake to let flash/batterypack cool down. The Cells-IIc only provides a pre-sync.




  
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Drk ­ Orange
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Post edited over 4 years ago by Drk Orange. (2 edits in all)
     
Nov 01, 2015 20:52 as a reply to  @ mmmfotografie's post |  #6193

The second of my original batteries has died, I wonder if it is worth the effort of getting it replaced or should I just build a better battery pack - but with blackjack, and hookers...

Most of the industrial 12v hardware I work on tends to be able to handle between 9 and 36v, does anybody know how tolerant the 360's are? Will they get upset by 13.6v? How about 24v?

*edit*
The caps are 25v, so that is the maximum potential limit. Would be nice if could be driven from my 18v tool batteries.




  
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Nov 03, 2015 13:21 |  #6194

Drk Orange wrote in post #17768736 (external link)
The second of my original batteries has died, I wonder if it is worth the effort of getting it replaced or should I just build a better battery pack - but with blackjack, and hookers...

Most of the industrial 12v hardware I work on tends to be able to handle between 9 and 36v, does anybody know how tolerant the 360's are? Will they get upset by 13.6v? How about 24v?

*edit*
The caps are 25v, so that is the maximum potential limit. Would be nice if could be driven from my 18v tool batteries.

It has a 11.4 lipo battery and I would not recommend using a modded battery


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pat.kane
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Nov 07, 2015 18:14 |  #6195

travisvwright wrote in post #17755948 (external link)
Is this a good deal? what else would I need?

http://www.adorama.com​/FPLFSL360K1.html (external link)

I know all the flashes are manufactured by one company, but are the triggers also interchangeable?

The Adorama package includes the Flashpoint R1 Flashpoint Commander Transmitter and Receiver Set. Will those receivers work with a CheetahStand Cells II-C transmitter?


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A New Bare Bulb Flash Arrives
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
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