Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

Sweeet I just got mine!

How do you know if you have a second generation trigger? It looks the exact same as the first Generation?
I hope it's the trigger that doesn't give me issues. Will test it later

mooshu wrote in post #17796756
Sweeet I just got mine!

How do you know if you have a second generation trigger? It looks the exact same as the first Generation?
I hope it's the trigger that doesn't give me issues. Will test it later

If it dose not give you a problem then not really an issue with the versions!!

How do you meter HSS with your lightmeter?

You can't meter it.

I searched, but no results... I really like the form factor of the Fujifilm X-E1, but the lack of HSS support is a killer. Is there any hope for a change in the future?

showtm490 wrote in post #17797290
How do you meter HSS with your lightmeter?

Hi, As above, you can't.

A flash meter measures all the flash illumination it 'sees'. When a Rovelight/Jinbei HD600 is set to 'H' and receiving the early trigger signal (ie Supersync), your flashmeter has no way of 'knowing' that the flash burn starts before the first curtain has even started to open . . .

Flash meters are nice, but I mostly chimp if I'm outside any way.

showtm490 wrote in post #17797290
How do you meter HSS with your lightmeter?

Since you can't use a meter , a way around it is to use a calibration target and look at your histogram. Make sure you have your highlight alert ON in your camera. You have go shoot a lot of frames until you get it.

PhilF wrote in post #17797703
Since you can't use a meter , a way around it is to use a calibration target and look at your histogram. Make sure you have your highlight alert ON in your camera. You have go shoot a lot of frames until you get it.

Exactly. Also set the contrast such that you gat a good Idea of your ratios.

showtm490 wrote in post #17797290
How do you meter HSS with your lightmeter?

Get a reference.
i.e. place the light 11 feet from a white wall and put on the modifier you will most often use.
Set power, shutter speed, ISO and the aperture to something that is mid-range. Make a test exposure. As someone pointed out, a test target is a good subject.

Make a series of exposures changing just one of the exposure variables. Decide which exposure it optimum. That's now the reference point.

With that in hand, you'll be able to place the light, set the camera, adjust power and be close on the first shot when it counts.

BTW, the reason for 11 feet is so that you know that moving the light in to 8 feet is about 1 EV, 5.6 feet is about 2 EV etc. Its more accurate with a standard point source reflector, less so with a larger softbox or umbrella but still a useful reference.

Yes, but if we are still restricting ourselves to exposure under under 'H' with an early trigger, ie Supersync - then you still have the gradient to contend with, which can easily be more than one stop. (Image darker at the top in landscape etc)

So light placement relative to camera body orientation as well as position of the primary subject within the frame, have to be considered too.

NewCreation wrote in post #17792504
How many of you who already have this unit have purchased the extra battery? Do you use it often?

If you didn't purchase the extra battery, do you wish you had?

The one with a single battery is a good deal, but adding the extra battery loses some of the "deal" value. Still not bad but curious if I will "need" it.

Anyone notice that it's $30 cheaper to buy a 2nd battery than it is to purchase the RL 600 w/extra battery bundle?
For example the current sale price of the RL is $399.95, the RL with extra battery is $579.95. Buying a battery is $150. $399.95+$150=$549.95 Why would anyone purchase the bundle? Not much a deal there..

I noticed that the Bowens version of this flash is now on sale for 399 bucks.

http://flashhavoc.com …day-holiday-season-deals/

You can find more offers on the site FlashHavoc

Just pulled the trigger on it, along with a Matthews C-Stand.

mooshu wrote in post #17796756
Sweeet I just got mine!

How do you know if you have a second generation trigger? It looks the exact same as the first Generation?
I hope it's the trigger that doesn't give me issues. Will test it later

I do not have my replacements yet to verify this but my understanding is that "v2" is imprinted on the unit. see image: http://flashhavoc.com …/2015/10/FP-V2_Remote.jpg

Robsphoto wrote in post #17794444
Tested the new trigger side by side with the old trigger this past weekend out to 100ft and the light was pointed out the closet behind two walls.
The old trigger simply would not fire, the new v2 triggers fired and powered the Rovelight each time. Thanks Adorama!!

Robsphoto wrote in post #17797075
If it dose not give you a problem then not really an issue with the versions!!

“An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.” Why wait to have an issue? When you finally do have an issue, is probably going to be in a situation when you least likely need to be having an issue. If version 1 transmitters have problems, as you and others have pointed out, and version 2 doesn't, then it seems prudent to replace version 1 transmitters with version 2 transmitters before you have an issue.

As I have pointed out in a prior post I am more worried about the flash firing rather than in controlling flash power remotely, so I use a more reliable TTL radio trigger for this purpose. I can always set the flash power directly into the flash it self even though some walking may be required. To be honest I could live a complete and satisfactory life without ever using the Rovelight transmitters even though I do currently use them for making flash power adjustments. Now that I know there is a better, more reliable version 2 transmitter.....I want it! Just because I say I could walk over to and adjust flash power on my strobes if I had to....in reality I would cuss the day I bought them if I ever had to. I want version 2 transmitters just because I hate to cuss and if I sell my Rovelights on Ebay I do not want a buyer claiming I sold them junk because the transmitters do not work.