Adorama Rovelight RL 600, thoughts?

majix wrote in post #17794446
thanks for your comment , I have a 47 octabox I like to use it for shell lighting setup , maybe less than 60" would be enough.
what boom do you suggest ?
is Manfrotto 420b reliable for this setup? I know Joseph is using that boom too
https://www.flickr.com​/photos/brettjosephsph​oto/

For me 420 is a lightweight combi boom. It works but not safe IMHO with a heavy strobe and counter balance. Avenger has beefier models. Look at the boom thread. Very good info. One thing, once you move to chrome stands, hard to go back.

I have a Manfrotto 420 stand, and my views on it are that it is a fine little stand when used within reasonable limits for something as heavy as the Rovelight.

Reasonable limits being:
- Working on a hard level floor
- Only using it as a vertical stand if trying to hold a beefy modifier
- Making VERY limited use of the boom arm, if at all. (As in, no extension on the arm, and keep the head within the footprint of the legs.)

Personally I treat mine as a vertical stand first with a short boom, or as something to hold a few speedlights. If you really want to get the Rovelight up and above someone, then you'll be wanting a far larger and heavier rig.

Thanks for comments , I don't want to be worry all the time while shooting so I'll wait a little more to buy a heavy duty boom

re Offset from the stand with a Rovelight/Jinbei HD600 ..

If you go with the Extension arm/Grip-head, then you need a stand topped off with a 2.5 in X 16mm Baby Pin section (rather than the usual 30 mm X 16 mm spigot), to handle a Grip-head safely.

Stand manufacturers know that stands with long pattern baby pin tops are likely to have to deal with bending moments, even with counterbalancing. (Includes all C stands or equivalents.)

So IMO, either go with a C stand, a heavy duty Combo style or something like a Matthews B387490 with Ext arm & Grip-head.

majix wrote in post #17800010
Thanks for comments , I don't want to be worry all the time while shooting so I'll wait a little more to buy a heavy duty boom

See if you can get a wheeled stand over a c-stand. I like c-stands but being handicapped I need something easier to move and wheeled stand works fine for me even outside. C stands are more pain for location shoot unless you got assistants to help. On my wheeled stand, I hang my battery, camera bag on the stand and Einstein on a 40" grip arm with 37" deep octa or a kacey beauty dish. Even inside studio I have roller stands over regular stands. So much easier to position bigger modifiers. I am using avenger A5029 or a variation. Expensive but like I said, once chrome stands, nothing else looks as good.

http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …REG&ap=y&m=Y&Q=​&A=details

For indoors, low weight, on center column stuff, I use this.
http://www.bhphotovide​o.com …ap=y&m=Y&is=REG​&A=details

Works very nice for strobe with grids, even medium softbox or a strip box. I can roll both these stands as I walk or let the model move one stand. The folding roller is more prone to falling as base is small. It is mainly indoors stand for on axis weight like I mentioned.

frozenframe wrote in post #17798230
Anyone notice that it's $30 cheaper to buy a 2nd battery than it is to purchase the RL 600 w/extra battery bundle?
For example the current sale price of the RL is $399.95, the RL with extra battery is $579.95. Buying a battery is $150. $399.95+$150=$549.95 Why would anyone purchase the bundle? Not much a deal there..

Because the unit is on sale right now!

mooshu wrote in post #17796756
Sweeet I just got mine!

How do you know if you have a second generation trigger? It looks the exact same as the first Generation?
I hope it's the trigger that doesn't give me issues. Will test it later

If you have received a trigger without V2, it is a V1, its not the new upgraded one, but it shouldn’t be defective either.
You can request a replacement by completing the form, here: http://www.adorama.com …ght-replacement?admin=t&2

Well, I can't get mine to work. It powers on, you can change the power levels, set the remote channel, etc, but pushing the test button, no flash. Modeling light does work.

Remote has no markings on it, so I'm guessing it's a v1. Remote will not control the light either, doesn't seem to connect.

Unfortunately, looks like it will have to go back

Well, I can't get mine to work. It powers on, you can change the power levels, set the remote channel, etc, but pushing the test button, no flash. Modeling light does work. Remote has no markings on it, so I'm guessing it's a v1. Remote will not control the light either, doesn't seem to connect. Unfortunately, looks like it will have to go back

I received mine today
did you remove the plastic tape that is behind the remote control's battery? you should press the power button on battery and keep it for few sound to turn in on (it takes me 15 minutes to realize that ) make sure the remote channel keys match with the flash channel .

I think the remote is the second version because it was in retail pack .

majix wrote in post #17801952
I received mine today
did you remove the plastic tape that is behind the remote control's battery? you should press the power button on battery and keep it for few sound to turn in on (it takes me 15 minutes to realize that ) make sure the remote channel keys match with the flash channel .

I think the remote is the second version because it was in retail pack .

Thanks for the thoughts. I did find the plastic on the remote battery and removed it. The Rove powers on, you can turn the modeling light on, but the flash won't fire with the test button or the remote. The remote doesn't change the power levels either.

I did make sure the channels were the same and I did change the channels just in case my wireless router was interfering.

Have you tried resetting the remote? There's a little button inside the battery compartment.

cutwater wrote in post #17802096
Thanks for the thoughts. I did find the plastic on the remote battery and removed it. The Rove powers on, you can turn the modeling light on, but the flash won't fire with the test button or the remote. The remote doesn't change the power levels either.

I did make sure the channels were the same and I did change the channels just in case my wireless router was interfering.

I'm sorry to hear of your troubles with this light. It's kind of keeping me away from it for a while longer. So in the mean time I just got the Flashpoint 360. *fingers crossed.

After further testing with the new trigger the only problem that I have noticed it that if you increase or decrease the power fast, the remote will shut off completely. Likewise, since the trigger does not have a display, if you accidentally go past the minimum or maximum setting while adjusting power levels, the trigger will shut off again requiring a restart.

I have a set of Jinbei triggers that I tested along side the v2 and they do not shut off in this manner neither did my v1 triggers. I will continue to use the Odin TX/RX to fire them and use the Jinbei triggers to operate the power levels...

Oddly, I have actually found I prefer working with my yongnuo attached to the rove, even in a case where a fully functional rove trigger is assumed. It's because I need to turn off my rove frequently to take ambient shots. The fastest way to do this us flick the switch on my yongnuo when it is attached. If it's not attached I have to hold down the roves power button for the three seconds. Doesn't sound like much but when you are turning it on and off all day it is a big deal. Secondly, with my yongnuo attached I can simply get my yongnuo 560iii out and that thing is ready to go with my yongnuo transmitter on the camera. So, all that whining and I still prefer the third party system for those reasons.

I'm going to have to check mine to see if it powers off like you are saying. I will use that trigger for remote power adjustment so definitely something I need to look into.

flowrider wrote in post #17802165
Have you tried resetting the remote? There's a little button inside the battery compartment.

Thanks for that, I didn't see it before. Reset the remote and now the remote will adjust the power and turn the model light on and off. Still no flash.

Anyone know if there is a reset on the head?

No response from Adorama yet...