1Diii at ISO 6400

Trying to shoot rugby in the north of Scotland in winter means little light. For 800/sec shutter speed (200 with TC 1.4) I need to go to ISO 6400 and even then they are under exposed. The resultant shots are so grainy they need a huge amount of processing and then even things like Nik Define is only partially successful.

Does the 1Diii need to go?

Any other suggestions welcome.

Are you close enough to use a speedlite?

Anywhere between 5 and 100 yards away. Think of American Football or Soccer type situations if that helps.

What lens are you using?

Sigma 70-200 F2.8 with 1.4 TC

Stick it at 1/800 shutter speed priority. So even F4.0 is under exposed much if the time.

I feel your pain!!! I live in the UK as well and the weather is not a photographers best friend.
Maybe time for a body that handles higher ISO better...I changed from a 5D classic to a 6D and what a difference..

1Dmk3 has a limited ISO range compared to a Mk4 (one reason why I upgraded). Why use a teleconverter? If you have f/2.8 use it and wait for the action to come to you.

Might you need a 300/2.8 or 400/2.8 instead? If funds are an issue, a non-IS 300/2.8 might be something worth saving up for.

- QUIT using shutter priority. Shoot aperture priority and force the lens wide open. That will give you the max shutter speed.
- Do not under expose. dump the 1.4 TC. Use f/2.8 and wait for the action to come close to you. Underexposing is death to IQ.

I shot lots of sports with my 1D-3 at ISO 6400 and it was fine. The images cleaned up nicely.

I use shutter priority, because anything under 1/2000 has blur, and I can deal better with noise than motion blur. If you cannot get the shutter speed you need at the max iso that the camera you have goes and a lens that is wide open, then there is little that can be done without adding light or using a camera that can shoot at higher isos. I agree about losing the TC, it is costing you a stop of light.

You could throw money at it;

300mm f/2.8 or a used SIGMA 120-300mm f/2.8 OS would be my first choice vs. body upgrade.

The other end would be 5D3, much better noise and you would have about the same "reach" as 1D3.

I'd look at the suggestions above first though.

birder_herper wrote in post #17808722
Might you need a 300/2.8 or 400/2.8 instead?

Agreed. If you buy used, you should be able to sell it for what you paid for it. Using a 1.4 TC in dim light just isn't a good idea.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #17808898
I use shutter priority, because anything under 1/2000 has blur, and I can deal better with noise than motion blur. .

When lack of light is an issue, iso maxes out, aperture maxes out the only thing left is shutter speed. In low light 1/500th is do-able, even 1/320th if you wait for the player to run towards you rather than across your field of view. Manual settings are the way to go. Underexposing is never a good idea. Under floodlights the setting should be pretty consistent. I've learned that the lights throw shadows or light in certain directions, so avoid the shadow parts, get the action in the brightest part of the pitch. Its a challenge. That's what non-league is all about.

Sure you can get shots at slower speeds, however shots are going to be very limited parts of the game, and not the fast paced parts like a fast kick or a dunk. The point is that if your goal is to get stop action shots, shutter speeds will be the priority. Sometimes the light is too low and you be limited at you can shoot, then you will set your settings to allow for these limited situations, and then I could see AV modes being used, but you undoubtedly will be throwing away a lot of shots. Manual would indeed be at that point.

Hannya wrote in post #17809384
In low light 1/500th is do-able, even 1/320th if you wait for the player to run towards you rather than across your field of view. ... ... ...
... ... ...I've learned that the lights throw shadows or light in certain directions, so avoid the shadow parts, get the action in the brightest part of the pitch.

Wow.