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FORUMS Photo Sharing & Visual Enjoyment Astronomy & Celestial 
Thread started 15 Dec 2015 (Tuesday) 18:33
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My first moon shots with my Sigma 150-600 C

 
Nelvick
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Dec 15, 2015 18:33 |  #1

My first moon shots. Any suggestion or technique ?


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KaosImagery
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Dec 15, 2015 20:08 |  #2

Looks pretty good to me. Last time I shot it was the blood moon. Tamron 150-600 plus 1.4x Kenko TC at f/8, tripod, controlled with Camranger and iPad Air. Came out pretty nice. I recently saw a video by Tony Northrup where he showed how to stack multiple moon shots for better detail. Haven't tried it yet...


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Celestron
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Dec 16, 2015 08:49 |  #3

Very nice , focus is good . Sigmas are known for not having a real sharp focus. I have an older 135-400mm APO Sigma lens and I mainly have lens creep problems . DO you have that problem ?




  
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Nelvick
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Post edited over 3 years ago by Nelvick. (2 edits in all)
     
Dec 16, 2015 13:56 |  #4

Celestron wrote in post #17820985 (external link)
Very nice , focus is good . Sigmas are known for not having a real sharp focus. I have an older 135-400mm APO Sigma lens and I mainly have lens creep problems . DO you have that problem ?

The true is that i had to manual focus to get to this sharpness. The autofocus was not as sharp as manual. I digital zoom in my Live View up to 10X and then manually focus to get the best. Than take the picture. The IS was off and obviously i was using a tripod. Also i used F8 and not 6.3. I have better sharpness in this lens in F8 using my 70D. I know in full sensor is much better the lens.




  
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Mar 19, 2016 14:53 |  #5

Love the first image.


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Orogeny
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Mar 22, 2016 08:58 |  #6

Celestron wrote in post #17820985 (external link)
I have an older 135-400mm APO Sigma lens and I mainly have lens creep problems . DO you have that problem ?

Nope. The 150-600 (both Sport and Contemporary) have a zoom lock. Set it at 600, lock it and never worry about lens creep again!

Tim


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Davenn
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Mar 23, 2016 18:29 |  #7

Nelvick wrote in post #17821297 (external link)
The true is that i had to manual focus to get to this sharpness.


yup, only way to do astro-imaging


The autofocus was not as sharp as manual.


again yup, never use auto and make sure any stabilisation is turned off ( just noticed that comment in the next section ;-)a )

I digital zoom in my Live View up to 10X and then manually focus to get the best. Than take the picture. The IS was off and obviously i was using a tripod

live view on the highest mag is the best straightforward way :-)


Also i used F8 and not 6.3. I have better sharpness in this lens in F8 using my 70D.


Yes, have always found shooting the moon at a higher f-stop improves the sharpness ... all lenses have a "sweet spot" the trick is finding it

Dave


A picture is worth 1000 words ;)
Canon 5D3, 6D, 700D, a bunch of lenses and other bits, ohhh and some Pentax stuff ;)

  
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TCampbell
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Post edited over 3 years ago by TCampbell.
     
Mar 23, 2016 21:10 |  #8

Nelvick wrote in post #17821297 (external link)
The true is that i had to manual focus to get to this sharpness. The autofocus was not as sharp as manual. I digital zoom in my Live View up to 10X and then manually focus to get the best. Than take the picture. The IS was off and obviously i was using a tripod. Also i used F8 and not 6.3. I have better sharpness in this lens in F8 using my 70D. I know in full sensor is much better the lens.

You always have to manual focus in astrophotography.

One nice thing is that if "anything" in space is focused... then "everything" in space is focused. This means you can select a nice star (stars are always better than planets or the moon because it's technically a pin-point source of light) and focus to minimize the point of light.

You can use a bahtinov focusing mask on the lens to help if you've got a bright star. The mask is a bit like a lens cap with a bunch of slots cut in it. The slots causes any point of light to throw diffraction spikes in a pattern which looks like an "X" with a vertical bar through the center. But as you adjust focus, the vertical bar will walk from one side of the "X" to the other. When all spikes converge at a common center point... you've nailed focus. At that point you can move the mask (being careful not to touch the focus on the lens) and point the camera to whatever you really wanted to image ... and it'll still be nice & sharp.

Here's a wikipedia link with an animation that shows how it works: https://en.wikipedia.o​rg/wiki/Bahtinov_mask (external link)

If you're the DIY type and handy with a craft knife, you can make your own: http://astrojargon.net​/MaskGen.aspx (external link)

If you're not so crafty and can afford a nice mask, you can get the Gerd Neumann bahtinov mask (these guys are shockingly expensive -- I think my 14" mask cut out of a sheet of thick aluminum made by Spike-A for my LX200 SCT was less expensive than the Gerd Neumann mask I bought for my camera lens.)

If you've got a spare UV filter laying around, you can get the Farpoint unmounted mask and snap it onto your UV filter (for a LOT less than the price of a Gerd Neuman mask).




  
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maisak
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Mar 25, 2016 11:07 |  #9

nice shots




  
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Roy ­ A. ­ Rust
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Mar 27, 2016 17:31 |  #10

Orogeny wrote in post #17944247 (external link)
Nope. The 150-600 (both Sport and Contemporary) have a zoom lock. Set it at 600, lock it and never worry about lens creep again!

Tim

My Tamron 150-600mm doesn't have a zoom lock at 600mm, but I have a lot of tape. Once I zoom it out to 600, I stick a piece of tape where the zoom ring meets the lens body, and don't have to worry about zoom creep. There have been times that I've inadvertently moved the focus ring as well, so once I get live view focus as sharp as I can get it, another piece of tape goes onto the focus ring. Low tech, but it works.




  
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Orogeny
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Mar 27, 2016 18:47 |  #11

Roy A. Rust wrote in post #17951037 (external link)
My Tamron 150-600mm doesn't have a zoom lock at 600mm, but I have a lot of tape. Once I zoom it out to 600, I stick a piece of tape where the zoom ring meets the lens body, and don't have to worry about zoom creep. There have been times that I've inadvertently moved the focus ring as well, so once I get live view focus as sharp as I can get it, another piece of tape goes onto the focus ring. Low tech, but it works.

That is what I had to do with my old Sigma 150-500. The zoom lock on the 150-600 C at different focal lengths is one of the things that, while I knew that it existed before I bought the lens, surprised me. I love the utility of the lock.

Tim


There's someone in my head, but it's not me! - Roger Waters

https://www.flickr.com​/photos/orogeny/ (external link)

  
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My first moon shots with my Sigma 150-600 C
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