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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 17 Dec 2015 (Thursday) 20:59
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Any advanced printing tips for the Canon Pixma Pro 100?

 
js09
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Dec 17, 2015 20:59 |  #1

Hey all, I'm finally getting around printing some 18x12's for my walls.
I've made some initial test prints that look killer and very similar to my monitor, but I want to ensure I'm getting the best results possible.

Here's some quick info and print settings I'm using:

Pixma pro 100
canon ink
platinum pro paper

editing/printing from Photoshop
soft proofing using the correct paper profile (view -> proof -> custom)
relative colorimetric
black point comp is checked

same settings in the actual print dialog box (Photoshop manages colors)


I'm sharpening the full size image then changing the document size to something like 18"x12", i am NOT downsizing to 300ppi, but rather sending the highest resolution image to the printer, which is around 400-500ppi.

Am I missing anything? Even if something can be done to add 1% to the quality let me know. I am trying to mimic the quality I see at some of the Peter Lik galleries I see across the country.

Thanks all!


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flowrider
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Post edited over 2 years ago by flowrider.
     
Dec 17, 2015 21:31 |  #2

Watch the videos on Youtube by Jose Rodriguez. He's very good.
Link (external link)

Check the stickies as well in this forum specifically the one by Tim for sizing for printing


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SereneSpeed
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Dec 17, 2015 22:53 |  #3

Look into setting your black and white points. At some point (I think it's about 246 luminosity (RGB #s) the printer will not lay down ink and you get a yellow(ish) sheen at the transition. Setting the white point lets the printer lay ink everywhere.

My two cents, keep printing. Every time a send 5-10 sheets through, I learn something new.

Oh, luster paper is pretty fantastic too and worth a try.


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js09
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Dec 17, 2015 23:04 |  #4

thanks guys! I have lustre as well and it looks nice!

the one paper I have not tried yet is hahnemuhle's offerings

I also am editing in 16-bit and sRGB.


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SereneSpeed
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Post edited over 2 years ago by SereneSpeed.
     
Dec 17, 2015 23:07 |  #5

I avoid sRGB like the plague...

Your camera can be set to capture in the Adobe RGB 98 colour space.

EDIT: not a big deal to reset the colour space when converting RAW, but sRGB is not the most friendly for prints (in my experience).


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js09
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Post edited over 2 years ago by js09.
     
Dec 17, 2015 23:16 |  #6

I am willing to give Adobe RGB a try again however I have yet to see any real world benefits of this color space. I can try a side-by-side.. but I just get the feeling there are much more fruitful methods and techniques out there that yield better improvements (like... the white/black point tip above)


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SereneSpeed
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Dec 17, 2015 23:37 |  #7

It does not need to be Adobe RGB 1998. Prophoto (Lightroom's default) works well too. The only thing to keep in mind is that when you take your RAW file and convert to sRGB colour space, you are throwing away colours. In a lot of cases, those are colours your printer/ink/paper could have used.


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SereneSpeed
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Dec 18, 2015 00:03 |  #8

I feel like I should add that the colour space issue has so many side to it and I cannot address all of them (I just don't understand all of the factors). But, for me and my workflow, I am achieving better quality printed images working in Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB. sRGB probably gets you to within 99% once printed. If you are trying to "add 1% to the quality" you may find the the larger colour spaces, used throughout your workflow, may help to add that 1%. But, I doubt you will see anything but minor improvements by changing colour space.


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Nogo
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Dec 18, 2015 00:19 |  #9

You have made no mention rather or not your monitor is calibrated or not. I am assuming it is, but if it is not, that is the very first thing that needs to be done to get great prints.

As for aRGB vs. sRGB, if you are not using a wide gamut monitor it is going to be hard to optimize the photos so they will print correctly using Prophoto or Adobe RGB.


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Nogo
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Dec 18, 2015 00:28 |  #10

The other thing with a Canon printer, not only do you have to tell the Photoshop to manage the color, but you also have to set the printer in the printer dialog box not to manage the color itself.

In the Print Setup Box click "Properties." In that box click on "Color/Intensity Manual Adjustment."
In the box that brings up click on the "Matching" tab up top and then select "None."


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agedbriar
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Post edited over 2 years ago by agedbriar. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 18, 2015 03:06 |  #11

SereneSpeed wrote in post #17823251 (external link)
I feel like I should add that the colour space issue has so many side to it and I cannot address all of them (I just don't understand all of the factors). But, for me and my workflow, I am achieving better quality printed images working in Adobe RGB or ProPhoto RGB. sRGB probably gets you to within 99% once printed. If you are trying to "add 1% to the quality" you may find the the larger colour spaces, used throughout your workflow, may help to add that 1%. But, I doubt you will see anything but minor improvements by changing colour space.

A larger working colour space will bring benefit over sRGB on two conditions:

- the image does also contain colours that are beyond the sRGB gamut
- the printer is capable of printing those highly saturated colours.

If those conditions aren't met, sRGB will yield all the colour quality possible, without the hassle (and possible limitations) of the 16-bit workflow, without the risk of a reduced colour resolution when forced down to 8 bits (monitor, printer) and without the loss of quality from the downward conversion when a sRGB version is eventually needed (for the web or printing lab).




  
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agedbriar
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Post edited over 2 years ago by agedbriar. (3 edits in all)
     
Dec 18, 2015 03:55 |  #12

The thing to keep in mind is, that larger colour spaces do not provide "nicer" colours. All that large colour spaces do is, that they also provide colour codes for highly saturated colours, while the sRGB working space doesn't and therefore has to "cheat" on colour fidelity when it needs to encode one of those.

That's because sRGB dedicates all the available codes (their number determined by the bit depth, same for any colour space) to everyday colours, thus providing finer colour resolution within the covered - albeit smaller - range.




  
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Dec 21, 2015 14:00 |  #13

A word about AdobeRGB and sRGB. sRGB can not be converted to AdobeRGB but you can convert down to sRGB.
If you are going to use AdobeRGB make sure you got the XPS driver installed. Printing on the Pro-100 can benefit from AdobeRGB but you must use the 16-bit driver.

I shoot everything in RAW with the conversion set to AdobeRGB as it goes to Lightroom. Printer stuff stays at AdobeRGB but web stuff or monitor display gets converted to sRGB first. Also if you send out a file for printing, convert it to sRGB first.

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Scooby_Doo
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Dec 21, 2015 16:22 |  #14

Since I use lightroom, I leave everything at Prophoto (or LR's equivalent), then convert to whatever paper I'm using profile. Completely bypass aRGB.




  
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Any advanced printing tips for the Canon Pixma Pro 100?
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