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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 12 Dec 2015 (Saturday) 18:38
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ETTL seems insufficient

 
Wilt
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Dec 16, 2015 11:52 as a reply to  @ post 17821171 |  #16

No permission needed to use that chart!  :p


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digital ­ paradise
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Dec 16, 2015 12:43 |  #17

OK thanks.

Rules of ETTL. Take the shot and chimp. Use histogram to determine flash exposure. Adjust FEC and shoot again. Makes life so simple.

Note. You can use the histogram and whites in the scene to help with exposure.


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Dec 16, 2015 21:38 |  #18

Pop camera in full manual, put flash in ETTL. Set the shutter speed and aperture you want and pick an ISO. ETTL will do the rest. If the image isn't bringt enough because the flash can't keep up, increase your ISO. If it's to bright because even at minimum power flash your exposure is to bright, then lower your ISO.

One thing that used to catch me out, if you are using AUTO ISO and flash, it will not pick an ISO higher then 400 (if there is a way to change this I'd really like to know)


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Dec 17, 2015 11:38 as a reply to  @ RileyNZL's post |  #19

I agree with digital paradise and riley.....When indoors, must shoot in manual mode...adjust your shutter speed to bring out background...use FEC on the camera to adjust your flash output. Canon flashes do vary with this...my old 430 ex 2 work well at 0 or -1/3 fec, while my new 430 ex 3 seems to need +1 to 1.5 fec constantly. Don't forget, if you bounce flash, you may run out of power after a distance of 10-12 feet depending upon f stop, ceiling height, room colors, etc. So if you still get underexposure, your may have hit the limit of the flashes power. Try upping your iso.

Btw...when using ttl for fill outdoors...shoot at A priority and don't forget to enalble hi speed sync.




  
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Dec 17, 2015 11:56 |  #20

That is what I normally do. M for in and AV for out but when in the mood I will use M outside and underexpose ambient a few stops. Of course I can do that in Av as well but I still get fill in M.


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Dec 21, 2015 15:44 |  #21

SereneSpeed wrote in post #17816895 (external link)
You don't mention what shooting mode you are in. Having owned the 430ex and a few 600's, I don't see why they shouldn't behave the same given the same settings (just different maximum output between the units).

I used the 430 on a T3i and a 5D3 and it behaved the same. On my Dad's 7D, I do remember it behaved a bit different until I changed some (custom?) settings - Sorry I cannot remember what.

I am now shooting mostly in manual with flash otherwise I am in Av. In Av, I have my camera set to lock shutter speed at 200 when the flash is attached. I sometimes change that, but those are rare circumstances. Shooting like that in Av, as long as I don't ask too much of the flash, I get my exposures close enough to perfect that I can clean up 97% of them in Lightroom (but they are good without that too). That is shooting events where anything can happen and I may need to just shoot first, think later. I tend to set the EV to ~-1 and the FEC to +1/3 to 1 and I adjust the ISO up so the batteries last on my flash. Then I just try to find something to bounce the flash off of. ETTL is pretty fantastic at doing it's thing, in my experience.

As I write this I am realizing how much I take for granted... I suppose there are a lot of variables.

Are you having problems with over-exposure, under-exposure, or both?

Underexposure: make sure you are not asking too much of the flash. Don't shoot at 1/200, iso100, f8 and expect a flash bounced 20ft away off a dark wall to do the job. Try upping your ISO - a well exposed flash assisted shot looks a lot better at high ISO than an ambient shot where you need to bump ISO just to see anything.

Overexposure: Make sure you need the flash. If you have light that is sufficient without the flash, adding flash is asking for trouble, especially if your camera is stuck to 1/200th when it needs 1/1000th. If that's what you want, i.e. Fill flash in the sun, try switching to HSS mode and ETTL will start to work again.

Both Overexposed and underexposed shots: Is the ambient light changing? I have had times where in one part of a room there is a three or four stop difference in ambient light because of a window or skylight. HSS can help here too if you set a shutter speed (high or ISO low) based on the highest ambient level.

Be aware of what your are bouncing your light off of (if you are bouncing). Or if direct flash and a backlit subject or very dark background, you may want to open your manual and check out the different metering modes on your camera as they will play a huge role in how much flash is added to your subject.

I'd be interested to hear what types of problems you are having. Given what you posted, I can tell you that I use ETTL all the way from a light kiss of light to add a 'little something' to an image, right up to using ETTL when it is literally too dark for me to see what my camera is focussing on (i.e. not supplemental light, but basically the only light).


I'm curious, you didn't mention what camera but how do you "have you camera set to lock shutter speed at 200 when the flash is attached?" Is there a setting or option to do this?

Thanks.




  
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SereneSpeed
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Dec 21, 2015 16:09 as a reply to  @ Roxie2401's post |  #22

Yes it's a settting. I had it on my T3i and it's also on my 5D3. On the 5D3, it's in the "External Speedlight control" menu and the actual setting is under "Flash sync. speed in Av mode". I think it was a Custom Function on my dad's 7D (but that was a long time ago) and it may also have been on my T3i.


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Roxie2401
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Dec 21, 2015 16:20 |  #23

SereneSpeed wrote in post #17827448 (external link)
Yes it's a settting. I had it on my T3i and it's also on my 5D3. On the 5D3, it's in the "External Speedlight control" menu and the actual setting is under "Flash sync. speed in Av mode". I think it was a Custom Function on my dad's 7D (but that was a long time ago) and it may also have been on my T3i.

Thank you very much!




  
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ETTL seems insufficient
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