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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 09 Feb 2016 (Tuesday) 21:25
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New to lighting, have some questions about which route to go

 
Z32
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Feb 10, 2016 13:31 |  #31

MFGorilla wrote in post #17893324 (external link)
Other than the YN-560III flash?

Instead of a 622-TX and a pair of 622-C's you might be able to find a package (like this one (external link)) with one of each and save yourself about 40 bucks.



Fantastic. So this package and a YN-685 is what I'm looking for, along with all the other stuff I listed. Thanks!




  
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Z32
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Feb 10, 2016 13:32 |  #32

thanks!




  
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Springer1979
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Feb 10, 2016 13:34 |  #33

Z32 wrote in post #17893327 (external link)
Getting the YN-685 flash would mean you don't need a YN-622C receiver for it. Thus in my case, I would only need 1 receiver, for my 430EXII. However, I can't find any place that sells a single receiver. The only place I could find selling a single is on Ebay from China. If anyone knows where to get a single, please let me know. Thanks.

Ok that's what I thought I wanted to make sure, because I, like you, have a 430EXII as well




  
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davinci953
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Feb 10, 2016 14:10 |  #34

Z32 wrote in post #17893327 (external link)
Getting the YN-685 flash would mean you don't need a YN-622C receiver for it. Thus in my case, I would only need 1 receiver, for my 430EXII. However, I can't find any place that sells a single receiver. The only place I could find selling a single is on Ebay from China. If anyone knows where to get a single, please let me know. Thanks.

Here's a single 622C from a Chinese seller but fulfilled by Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com …22C-Trigger/dp/B007B8Y1KO (external link)

This is a single 622C II from a Brooklyn based seller.

http://www.amazon.com …ransceivers/dp/​B017QFGAP0 (external link)




  
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agv8or
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Post edited over 3 years ago by agv8or. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 10, 2016 16:26 |  #35

My first recommendation would be to stay away from the Canon Wireless Optical system. You only use that system today when you do not know any better, there is and has been for a long time much better choices.

I have 2 flash system recommendations.

1. The Canon Wireless RT system and Genuine Canon 600EX-RT flashes and ST-E3-RT transmitters. The only Yongnuo product I can recommend anymore is the YN-E3-RT in place of the ST-E3-RT but, only if you have an older DSLR that cannot utilize the <Gr> mode of the ST-E3-RT. I also recommend the Phottix Laso over the YNE3-RX if you are looking for a receiver to use in the Wireless RT system. I cannot recommend the YN600EX-RT's in good conscience either. I bought 3 as cheap replacements, for some of my more expensive 600EX-RTs, to put some money in my pockets. I have already had one quit working. So much for that bright idea!

2. GO Godox! The new 2.4G TTL Wireless system and 2.4G products are rather impressive. https://photography-on-the.net …/showthread.php​?t=1452436
As far as TTL radio triggers the X1 system from Godox is my choice even over the Canon Wireless RT system.


Rand

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davinci953
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Feb 10, 2016 18:07 |  #36

MalVeauX wrote in post #17893057 (external link)
By the way, when doing large modifiers or high outputs, I often pair flashes up. If you put two flashes together, you get +1 stop of light, which means you can use them both at one stop less of power, get more spread, and a faster recycle time on both while maintaining the output of 1 stop higher. Awesome way to get spread for a large modifier, and to not use full 1/1 power, so you can speed up recycle times. Just a thought if you are doing seriously big things, like 60" modifiers. But really, two 47" modifiers should give you decent coverage. Just increase flash output to around 1/4 or 1/2 and increase ISO to as high as it needs to be to get exposure.

What mount are you using when pairing flashes?




  
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jsphoto
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Feb 10, 2016 18:39 |  #37

I use this triple bracket for 2 or 3 flashes when I need power. More importantly when I need faster recycle and can run the speedlights further below full power because multiples.

http://www.amazon.com/​gp/product/B007ODZYRK (external link)

I'll be replacing that and speedlights with a Godox AD360 or Godox AD600. It gets annoying when you have to join and deal with batteries from 2-3 speedlights.




  
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Z32
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Post edited over 3 years ago by Z32. (2 edits in all)
     
Feb 10, 2016 18:44 |  #38

This is the type of setup I will be shooting, something very similar to this. I took this photo with a hotshoe flash. It took some post processing to get it to this point and I'm still not happy with it. How will the setup we've been discussing help with this type of situation? After seeing this image, do you still think it's the right setup? Also, if someone has a setup picture of where they would place the stands/flashes/umbrell​as in this situation, that would be very helpful. Thanks.

IMAGE: https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3670/18831948153_ee25db66a2_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/uG7E​6g  (external link) IMG_3171 (external link) by Ahmed Rashid (external link), on Flickr



  
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FarmerTed1971
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Feb 10, 2016 19:03 |  #39

This post on the Strobist might be of use to you...

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …peedlight-group-shot.html (external link)


Getting better at this - Fuji Xt-2 - Fuji X-Pro2 - Laowa 9mm - 18-55 - 23/35/50/90 f2 WR - 50-140 - flickr (external link) - www.scottaticephoto.co​m (external link)

  
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davinci953
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Feb 10, 2016 19:08 |  #40

jsphoto wrote in post #17893639 (external link)
I use this triple bracket for 2 or 3 flashes when I need power. More importantly when I need faster recycle and can run the speedlights further below full power because multiples.

http://www.amazon.com/​gp/product/B007ODZYRK (external link)

I'll be replacing that and speedlights with a Godox AD360 or Godox AD600. It gets annoying when you have to join and deal with batteries from 2-3 speedlights.

Thanks for the link. I'm looking at the Godox lights as well.




  
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jsphoto
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Feb 10, 2016 20:36 |  #41

For a group shot like that, two umbrellas on about a 45 degree with the high above everyone's head is an easy way to get decent lighting.

You can learn a bunch with two light stands, two umbrellas and two speedlights. It is enough to put a foam head up and play around with light ratios and learn. So I don't think a moderate expense in speedlight is a bad thing. Then if you need more power you can upgrade. Often you just need one powerful strobe and fill in with speedlights.




  
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MalVeauX
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Feb 10, 2016 22:54 |  #42

davinci953 wrote in post #17893619 (external link)
What mount are you using when pairing flashes?

Heya,

A simple double shoe mount, inexpensive. (LINK) (external link)

In use:

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5789/22805809553_4d17e7404d_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/AKgJ​CZ  (external link) IMG_6076 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

IMAGE: https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5825/23324491392_743804297d_c.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/Bx77​Fj  (external link) IMG_6077 (external link) by Martin Wise (external link), on Flickr

For a larger group, I would look at a big 60" umbrella and just use two lights to spread out the light, at 1/2 power each. Raise ISO as needed. You can get a good amount of light from this indoors.

Realistically though, instead of fooling with modifiers and stuff, for what you're looking to do, it just seems to make more sense to just bounce the flash off the ceiling. One flash. Use ISO to make it efficient.

Very best,

My Flickr (external link) :: My Astrobin (external link)

  
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gonzogolf
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Feb 10, 2016 22:56 |  #43

Since this is on a stage beware of trying to bounce with rigging or any sort of infrastructure overhead.




  
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New to lighting, have some questions about which route to go
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