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Thread started 13 Dec 2013 (Friday) 23:44
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Tamron SP 150-600mm Di VC USD

 
wagaboo
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Apr 29, 2016 15:14 as a reply to  @ post 17989562 |  #8236

Ahh gotcha and thanks :)


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Grizz
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Apr 29, 2016 18:13 |  #8237

Brown Thrasher, A first for me. :)

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1452/26445882070_fb333cf2e4_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/GhW4​nY  (external link) Brown Thrasher (external link) by Craig Schriever (external link), on Flickr

Craig * Canon 7D Mark II * 60D * 10D * Tamron SP 150-600 f/5-6.3 Di VC USD * EF 400 5.6L USM * EF 17-40 4.0L USM * EF 70-210 4.0 * EF 28 2.8 * EF 50 1.8 MK1*Flickr (external link)

  
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sirquack
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Apr 30, 2016 10:37 |  #8238

I wish the head had been turned towards me on this shot, but it was still kind of cool to catch the classic tail shape of this Barn Swallow.

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1500/26730819495_dbc829f916_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/GJ7r​mc  (external link) Barn Swallow (external link) by Ron Ellsworth (external link), on Flickr

Name is Ron.
Bodies - 6D/5D3/7D2-Gripped
Lenses - Canon 17-40 F4/24-70 F2.8 II/85 F1.8/Canon 70-200 F2.8 II/F4/Sigma 30 DC/Tamron 150-600
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Lester ­ Wareham
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May 01, 2016 12:19 |  #8239

Grey Wagtail

IMAGE: http://www.ware.myzen.co.uk/GalleryPics/Photos/Birds/General/Pipits%20and%20Wagtails/birds%20Grey%20Wagtail%20I_002_12-03-16.jpg

IMAGE: http://www.ware.myzen.co.uk/GalleryPics/Photos/Birds/General/Pipits%20and%20Wagtails/birds%20Grey%20Wagtail%20F_001_12-03-16.jpg

IMAGE: http://www.ware.myzen.co.uk/GalleryPics/Photos/Birds/General/Pipits%20and%20Wagtails/birds%20Grey%20Wagtail%20C_002_12-03-16.jpg

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edmidlifecrisis
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May 01, 2016 13:03 |  #8240

Haven't used the Tamron much but gave it some exercise today on my 6D. I like how this one came out, great colors and rendering by camera and lens. Love that 6D

IMAGE: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1486/26754550055_751c4726a1_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/GLd4​BM  (external link) glossy20160501 (external link) by Ed Spenser (external link), on Flickr

Ed
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wagaboo
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May 01, 2016 19:13 |  #8241

One more question if anyone would like to help :)
My keep rate for BIF is maybe 20% and I need to get that keeper rate up. I even seem to have trouble with stills (blurry)
I have the 7D and was wondering if anyone could share settings such as focusing within the cam to
get my keeper up especially for BIF
Thanks so much for any help offered.
PS. My lens does qualify for the firmware upgrade as well
I hope this has made sense :rolleyes:


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MalVeauX
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May 01, 2016 20:16 |  #8242

wagaboo wrote in post #17992320 (external link)
One more question if anyone would like to help :)
My keep rate for BIF is maybe 20% and I need to get that keeper rate up. I even seem to have trouble with stills (blurry)
I have the 7D and was wondering if anyone could share settings such as focusing within the cam to
get my keeper up especially for BIF
Thanks so much for any help offered.
PS. My lens does qualify for the firmware upgrade as well
I hope this has made sense :rolleyes:

Heya,

For BIF, start with 1/2000s as your shutter. Shoot manual and meter. I'll shoot ISO 1600 on a 7D in broad day light if that means getting 1/2000s at F6.3, F7.1 or F8 (pretty much where my Tamron sits when doing wildlife/birding). I shoot with my 7D and the Tamron. I use center point AF and I either use expanded points or I turn them off sometimes too (expansion is good for BIF), spot focus is ideal for sitting/perched birds. I set AI servo tracking to the 2nd to slowest sensitivity setting so that it's hard for it to break the focus lock when another bird or obstacle passes into view. If I'm trying to keep focus on very fast moving flighty small birds, I use a more sensitive setting (with shorter glass usually though). Nothing else fancy going on. In variable light I use AV mode, partial meter and +2/3rds EC, and I use whatever ISO it takes to get 1/2000s shutter as an average or minimum. Usually I shoot manual though, meter, look at histogram after an image, and adjust, then I'm locked in and just do the session until the light or location changes.

If shooting stills, and it's blurry, you need to either work on your bracing technique, get the shutter to be faster, or use a mount like a gimbal. I can get as low as 1/50s, but it takes very good bracing and I like to use a mount in very low light. If hand holding, get your shutter up faster, much faster, until you have really good bracing technique, until then, get that shutter to 1/1000s as a minimum starting point. With a mount and with good technique you can get slower and slower with the shutter, but don't be afraid to use ISO to whatever it takes. Grain is better than blur! Again, shoot manual and meter yourself. I often use a monopod in low light with VC, I can get down to 1/50s that way very reliably with good bracing. Otherwise, a tripod + gimbal is very sturdy and you can get very steady shots if you have the leg room. I prefer partial meter here too, and I prefer single point AF so that it's very precise and not jumping around. I focus lock once with a bump, refocus again, compose, take the shot.

Very best,


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wagaboo
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May 01, 2016 21:22 |  #8243

MalVeauX wrote in post #17992383 (external link)
Heya,

For BIF, start with 1/2000s as your shutter. Shoot manual and meter. I'll shoot ISO 1600 on a 7D in broad day light if that means getting 1/2000s at F6.3, F7.1 or F8 (pretty much where my Tamron sits when doing wildlife/birding). I shoot with my 7D and the Tamron. I use center point AF and I either use expanded points or I turn them off sometimes too (expansion is good for BIF), spot focus is ideal for sitting/perched birds. I set AI servo tracking to the 2nd to slowest sensitivity setting so that it's hard for it to break the focus lock when another bird or obstacle passes into view. If I'm trying to keep focus on very fast moving flighty small birds, I use a more sensitive setting (with shorter glass usually though). Nothing else fancy going on. In variable light I use AV mode, partial meter and +2/3rds EC, and I use whatever ISO it takes to get 1/2000s shutter as an average or minimum. Usually I shoot manual though, meter, look at histogram after an image, and adjust, then I'm locked in and just do the session until the light or location changes.

If shooting stills, and it's blurry, you need to either work on your bracing technique, get the shutter to be faster, or use a mount like a gimbal. I can get as low as 1/50s, but it takes very good bracing and I like to use a mount in very low light. If hand holding, get your shutter up faster, much faster, until you have really good bracing technique, until then, get that shutter to 1/1000s as a minimum starting point. With a mount and with good technique you can get slower and slower with the shutter, but don't be afraid to use ISO to whatever it takes. Grain is better than blur! Again, shoot manual and meter yourself. I often use a monopod in low light with VC, I can get down to 1/50s that way very reliably with good bracing. Otherwise, a tripod + gimbal is very sturdy and you can get very steady shots if you have the leg room. I prefer partial meter here too, and I prefer single point AF so that it's very precise and not jumping around. I focus lock once with a bump, refocus again, compose, take the shot.

Very best,

Thanks so very much for taking the time to help and this will surely be a benefit when I go out tomorrow for Osprey and Herons!!
Once again, thank you :-D


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Peter2516
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May 01, 2016 23:57 |  #8244

Beautiful Lester.


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Bill ­ in ­ Texas
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May 02, 2016 04:02 as a reply to  @ Lester Wareham's post |  #8245

Wonderful shots Lester.


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edmidlifecrisis
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May 02, 2016 21:42 |  #8246

Another nice one from the 6D Tamron combo. This one is cheating though, because the Great Blue Heron was really close by and very cooperative- it was at minimum 150mm here. But the light was right and the combo did right by the bird...nice result.
I keep wanting to sell this lens because I have the 100-400ii but then these types of photos make me hang onto it.

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7687/26690384132_aa849b4a4d_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/GExc​jL  (external link) gbh20160501a (external link) by Ed Spenser (external link), on Flickr

Ed
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Peter2516
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May 03, 2016 00:26 |  #8247


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Peter
http://www.flickriver.​com/photos/peterbangay​an (external link)
EOS 5D Mark IV, 1Dx1, 7D Mark I & II/Canon T2i Gripped/EF 500mm f/4L IS USM MK1 / EF70-200mm f2.8L IS II USM / EF100 -400 f4.5-5.6L USM/ EFS 10-22mm/EFS 17-55mm/EFS 18-200mm/Canon 1.4x II/Canon 2x III/ 430EXII / 580EXII.

  
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JVthePT
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May 03, 2016 05:38 |  #8248

Great stuff here, Ed I know what you mean, it was difficult to part with mine but I just didn't use it once I got the 100-400ii and the 1.4xiii.

If anyone is interested, I have a camo lenscoat and a LowePro case for this lens that I'm not using. Feel free to PM me if interested.


6D & 7D mark II - Canon 16-35 f/4 IS L, Canon 24-70 f/2.8 L, Canon 24-105 f/4 L IS, Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS II L, Canon 100-400 f/4.5-5.6 L IS II, Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM, Canon 85 f/1.8, Canon 100 f/2.8 USM macro, Canon EF 1.4x III
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gabebalazs
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May 04, 2016 14:13 |  #8249

Can't really get out anywhere to shoot these days, so here is a back yard dweller:

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/26724649622_3bfc145fd9_o.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/GHyP​g5  (external link) Bunny 80D Tamron 150-600mm (external link) by gabebalazs (external link), on Flickr

SONY A7RIII | SONY A7III | SONY RX10 IV | SONY RX100 | 24-70 2.8 GM | 70-200 2.8 GM | 16-35 F/4 | PZ 18-105 F/4 | FE 85 1.8 | FE 28-70 | SIGMA 35 1.4 ART | SIGMA 150-600 C | ROKINON 14 2.8
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Grizz
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May 04, 2016 16:59 |  #8250

IMAGE: https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7773/26214499873_5301461f5b_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: https://flic.kr/p/FWua​vK  (external link) Great Egret (external link) by Craig Schriever (external link), on Flickr

Craig * Canon 7D Mark II * 60D * 10D * Tamron SP 150-600 f/5-6.3 Di VC USD * EF 400 5.6L USM * EF 17-40 4.0L USM * EF 70-210 4.0 * EF 28 2.8 * EF 50 1.8 MK1*Flickr (external link)

  
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